1996 polaris sportsman 500 throttle body wires
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By crankin
I have a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4. It used to start right up. Then all of a sudden it wouldn't crank. I have a schematic for it so I started tracing the problem. I had no power at the starter solenoid. According to the schematic the power comes from the neutral switch and through the starter circuit cut out relay. I cannot locate the cut out relay on this machine.. If I apply power to the relay it will crank with the start button.
The neutral switch is hard to get to with all the brackets on this thing. I did find out from all my research that if I apply the rear brake lever it will start.
Does anybody know if the cut out relay exists and where it might be found?
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By Zrach
I wanted to share a successful workaround for a "no-spark" issue on a 2009 LT-A400.
This is specifically for cases where the CDI has been diagnosed as faulty, but the age or condition of the machine makes the cost of a brand-new OEM unit hard to justify.
Note: This modification compromises the factory “no-start” circuits.
On some malfunctioning CDI units the internally damaged circuitry is only partial.
Feeding full time power to the Parking Brake pin, the unit is triggered to bypass the internal fault and produce a healthy consistent output to the Ignition coil.
The Modification
See the second diagram attached below for the wiring specifics.
The Result:
The machine has clocked over 1,000km since this repair and is still running strong with no ignition dropouts.
⚠️ IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING ⚠️
Please be aware that this modification compromises the factory safety "no-start" circuits.
The machine will now start in gear. The safety interlock involving the handbrake is no longer functional. The machine can move unexpectedly if the starter is pressed while in gear. Proceed at your own risk. If you sell the machine or let others ride it, ensure they are fully aware that these factory safety buffers have been removed.
Faulty CDI Workaround.pdf
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By 97kingquad
Okay so I bought this 1997 sazuki king quad from a guy and he had it for a few years.Â
He had it registered and on the trails last year but he said it bogged and backfired when he would try to drive it. so it sat for a year.Â
I bought it for 800 bucks and got it running that night and it ran great for a few daysÂ
But I parked it the other night and went to start it again and it was really hard to fire up and when I did it was bogging and idling high then low again.
So I took the carb out and cleaned it (ended up doing it twice because it was still doing the same thing)Â
Now today I have it running slightly better, but it is still like 20%Â
I have been looking it up and trying to figure it out but I can't find the issue, has anyone else had this problem? I'll attach a video of it running and giving some throttleÂ
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By fwsamm
Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
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By Does_This_Look_Bent?
Hey everyone, I just replaced the carp on my 98 Kodiak 400 with PN#4SH-14101-00-00. It starts and idles perfect, but once it’s good and warmed up, it bogs out at 3/4 throttle or more… it sounds like it’s bouncing off a rev limiter haha… I tried the air fuel screw, all the way in and out 2-1/2, and it made it a touch better… tried 2 turns and no different. Am I missing something?
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