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By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
I'm really considering this utv. Before any negative comments about this machine remember I did everything I wanted with a 250 Ozark. My 09 rubicon was over kill. I'll use it for snow plowing bulldozing logging and cruising. So I can spend 8,500 on a ruby or the 500 pioneer.
Little history, when it would get hot it would loose power, backfire and quit. Let it sit for an hour and it would crank right up, that is why I suspect the coil is bad. It ran when I brought it home from hunting but now the starter isn’t working thus I’m thinking relay or fuse. Engine will turn over with pull start but won’t start. Also the winch solenoid just clicks but winch won’t work. I’ve replaced the rear axles, wheel bearings, brakes, ignition switch, tires carb rebuild and other stuff and I’m frustrated and tired of working on it. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
'11 Grizz 700 here. Since I've got some warm weather these next couple days I've decided to start the bike after about a year of just sitting. Took out the plug and sprayed a good amount of fogging oil on top of the piston to help lubricate things. After about a minute of letting it soak I stuck my air line tubing in to suck out the excess, but it seems like I didn't get nearly as much in return. Repositioned the tube enough so that everything that was gonna come out pretty much did. I'll probably shoot some compressed air down the plug hole before doing the start just to make sure it's all out, as well as cranking it for a second before putting the plug back in. How long would it take for a bit of standing fogging oil to seep past the piston rings, and where would it go? I guess into the engine oil? The oil was fairly new the last time it was started but I'm sure it could stand to be changed after sitting for so long. If much of this fogging oil got into the engine oil should I do the change before the startup?
Haven't been tracking because I was down with a cold. And it really sucked because we had several storms come thru and put down some nice fresh snow. But it's all good now. Except now, the temps are really going to start going up which means the snow is melting fast. But I got out on 27 Mar & the tracking was AWESOME !!! Hope you enjoy the video !!!
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I have been working on a golf cart project for the last 4 months and ran into a major problem today, I have a 98 zr 500 snowmobile engine that I am planning to run in the reverse direction. I have set the timing to the opposite side of TDC and turned the pull starter around and come to find out, that I don't get any spark when pulling on the rope. I tested the wires going to the CDI and none of them get any power so I assumed that my stator wont work in reverse. Can I run power to the CDI from a battery and make it run? If so, what wire needs the power? If I can get it running, My next step is going to be to try and make it run on HHO and still inject the 2 cycle oil to keep it from overheating and ware out too quickly.
Has anyone ever found a way to turn a 2 stroke into a glo engine?
Im sure there is someone out there who is smart enough to tell me how to make this work.
I read alot of posts about owners refusing to pay $10+ for a quart of atv oil. Going to Wallys,Autozone, Pepboys, I cant find atv oil less than 10 bux. Am i looking at the wrong oil? Im talking about oil specifically made for wet clutches. I just bought mobil1 10-40 4t synthetic (didnt have semi) and itvwas 13 a quart. lucas oil semi synthetic 20-50 was $10 a quart. Honda lube is 17 a quart and 22 a quart
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