Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Posted
3 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Fresh spark plug as well. 

Already got a new one in it. Next problem.....how to remove the bolts for the header. Very rusty!

4 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

20200310_174407.jpg

The exhaust is swiss cheese, so it needs removed.

Posted

Ok here's where things can go horribly wrong. 
You have to spray them down good with penetrating oil spray. Do it once and again every 6 hours for 24 hours. 
Warm the engine up and then try to back them out. 
You will get some smoke from the oil burning off.   

They will snap off and then its a whole new ball game.  

Posted

Them breaking off is what I'm worried about. Is there any sort of repair wrap that I could use rather than removing it?

Think propane torch would heat them up enough to loosen? I dont have cutting torches. 

Posted

Yes, in fact that's what i always use is a propane torch.  I hate to recommend it if the user is not familiar with it so i tell them to warm the engine up.  
 

Heres what i do: Soak them with penetrating spray and let it sit for 4  hours. Go spray again and let sit overnight. 
Next day hit it one more time with the spray and get the torch. Warm the bolts up but do not over heat. All you want to do is heat the metal enough to expand.  I try going both ways with the bolt.  
If bolts are shot when you get them out replace. 

Posted

It works if you go slow. Rushing = broken bolts. It will come loose and when it does as it comes out go back in and out etc until its comes all the way out. The rust comes off the bolt as you back it out and can ruin threads so go back in if you feel the bolt is not coming out and spray it while doing so.  

 If by some chance the Allen head strips you can always grab the outside with a vice grip. 

Also if the exhaust pipe is shot then cut it off with a sawzall to make access a little easier to your bolts.    

Posted
On 3/9/2020 at 9:32 PM, Frank Angerano said:

I do recommend a way to clean them up. 
Take a look at this last project i did. 
 

 

Water sand and apply a clear coat thats flexible and durable to chemicals.  

Let me know what you think. 
 

What clear coat did you use?

Posted
16 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Go and  buy an easy out kit and drill it out with the approximate size bit and back it out.  
Heat will be key here so tread lightly.  Drill out the center of the stud carefully and go in with the easy out.   

I posted a pic of the extractors I have. Aren't those easy outs?

Posted

I had that bolt laying around, started to use the ezout, but felt like it was gonna break. I just loosely bolted the same header pipe on to see if it worked.

I found a used one for $30 on ebay

Posted

I tried to remove it, but felt like it ezout was going to break off, so I just drilled the whole thing out.

I have this clearcoat that's for motorcycle plastic i believe. Wonder is this would work for the plastics? More importantly,  wonder if its flexible?

 

20200312_220540.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By cavry
      O3 sat a while. Engine is running fine. I got it into neutral, did some general tune-up and cleaning then pulled the shifter pedal up and it locked up and will not release into neutral again.  Does anyone have experience with this problem?  Thanks for looking and any help.
      Cavry
    • By realpilot
      I am unable to find a wiring diagram for this UTV.  When I turn the switch to on, the contractor does not engage.  The Brake pressure switch and the parking brake switches work correctly. What else should I be looking for?  All of the diagrams I have found are for newer models and the wire color coding is different.
       
      Thanks
    • By logray
      Hi all, 

      I am wondering if any of you have a Clutch Starter gear from a 1988 era quadrunner 250 sitting around that you could get me a precise measurement of the outer diameter of the race the sprag engages onto, for me? I need to machine a damaged race down and install a hardened sleeve and need that measurement (it's on a different gear than the OEM one, so I can't buy and use a OEM gear). 

    • By OldATVowner
      Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks
    • By quadcrazy
      What is your take on ATV Insurance? Do you have ATV Insurance? If so, through which company and why?
      We'd like to hear our member's opinions on ATV Insurance. Please vote on the poll.
×
×
  • Create New...