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payne

Yamaha Bear Tracker 250 Where to start?

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8 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Ok so relay clicks is a great thing.  I would remove, clean and reconnect all wires going to the starter and try that again.  

Ok, I do believe that I'm not getting power to the starter still though. I put I test light on the 12v wire coming into starter and jumped started button and the light didnt light up.

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I take that back. Removed hot wire to starter. Connected test light to it at it lit up when I jumped the starter button wires. Light looked kind dim. Thinking maybe my battery is bad. It has 11.2v when no load is on it, but I have a trickle charger on it.

I'm gonna try and see if my lawn mower battery does any different tomorrow.

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Ok thats good.  Just because a battery shows 11-12 v it does not mean it will crank an engine. Sometimes a cell is bas within the battery.   Make sure the battery is properly charged and ready to go or new. Its important.  
 

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Think I got it Frank! Used my lawnmower battery and it started right up. I think I'm gonna get a new relay because its hit or miss with it it seems. Thanks for all your help, I greatly appreciate it!

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@payne thats great news and awesome work brother.  All i did was point you in the right direction. You did all the work! 
Tidy up all the wiring and make sure to lube and properly service that atv and take care of it. 

Post some pics,  stay in touch. 
Ride safe. 

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Thanks again. Think it was a combination of partially broken wire coming from ignition, bad/corroded connections things like that. I was actually fixing it for my brother in law. He's wanted a quad for few years now and he found this cheap,  not running. I'll post some pics when I'm done. Plastics are faded real bad. Was gonna try a heat gun on them or do you suggest something else?

I have a CFMOTO now, but had a 08 Rancher 420 and 87ish Bayou before.

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I do recommend a way to clean them up. 
Take a look at this last project i did. 
 

 

Water sand and apply a clear coat thats flexible and durable to chemicals.  

Let me know what you think. 
 

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That looks great! It may be a lil more work than I'm willing to do. Not sure. What grit sandpaper do you use?

What mini battery jumper do you use?

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Sandpaper was 500 to get it down quick and then 800.   It was not as bad as you would think.   
Its 10 times easier if the plastics are off of the atv. 
The  sanding goes quick and its water sanding so no dust. 
 

 Jumper pack i got on eBay my brand was i think red pack or red something....  But heres another that is the same.   These things are a life saver especially when I'm heading out to go get an atv that was sitting. I can hook it up and crank and check for compression etc. 

Arteck Car Jump Starter Auto Battery Charger and 8000mAh External Battery Charger Car Jumper for 12V Automotive, Motorcycle, Tractor, Boat, Phone with Clamps, LED Flashlight, 300A Peak 2.5L Gas Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVSSCG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_usVzEbQNWD8RF

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That thing is tiny, lol. Does it last long enough to crank on it for awhile?

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Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

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3 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

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15 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Fresh spark plug as well. 

Already got a new one in it. Next problem.....how to remove the bolts for the header. Very rusty!

4 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

20200310_174407.jpg

The exhaust is swiss cheese, so it needs removed.

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Ok here's where things can go horribly wrong. 
You have to spray them down good with penetrating oil spray. Do it once and again every 6 hours for 24 hours. 
Warm the engine up and then try to back them out. 
You will get some smoke from the oil burning off.   

They will snap off and then its a whole new ball game.  

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Them breaking off is what I'm worried about. Is there any sort of repair wrap that I could use rather than removing it?

Think propane torch would heat them up enough to loosen? I dont have cutting torches. 

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Yes, in fact that's what i always use is a propane torch.  I hate to recommend it if the user is not familiar with it so i tell them to warm the engine up.  
 

Heres what i do: Soak them with penetrating spray and let it sit for 4  hours. Go spray again and let sit overnight. 
Next day hit it one more time with the spray and get the torch. Warm the bolts up but do not over heat. All you want to do is heat the metal enough to expand.  I try going both ways with the bolt.  
If bolts are shot when you get them out replace. 

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I'll give it a try. I wish they were bolt head, not allen.

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It works if you go slow. Rushing = broken bolts. It will come loose and when it does as it comes out go back in and out etc until its comes all the way out. The rust comes off the bolt as you back it out and can ruin threads so go back in if you feel the bolt is not coming out and spray it while doing so.  

 If by some chance the Allen head strips you can always grab the outside with a vice grip. 

Also if the exhaust pipe is shot then cut it off with a sawzall to make access a little easier to your bolts.    

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On 3/9/2020 at 9:32 PM, Frank Angerano said:

I do recommend a way to clean them up. 
Take a look at this last project i did. 
 

 

Water sand and apply a clear coat thats flexible and durable to chemicals.  

Let me know what you think. 
 

What clear coat did you use?

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Oxidized or faded plastic body parts By Randel1, December 9, 2019 in General Talk - Anything Goes! 
Original Content From:

 

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Bottom one came out fine. Top one broke.  I may have rushed that one or not hot enough. What should I do next?

1583960528173267550203378280778.jpg

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