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Currently working on a 1992 Yamaha Big Bear 350 that idles perfect but cuts out with any kind of throttle. We replaced carburetor and head to carburetor boot.
Put in a new spark plug, the old one was black as hell, unsure if it was caused by old carburetor or current misfire. This problem similar to the rev limiter you see on newer models when
differential is locked or in reverse. I don't think this machine has that feature but I could be wrong? I suspect an ignition component is breaking down but at the moment I don't have access to a wiring diagram or workshop manual but I'm working on that. Are the e-manuals any good?
Hi i bought my first atv last week, mostly for plowing. its a 94 yamaha big bear 350 4x4, with plow, new front axles, carb rebuild and some other stuff for $900. in todays prices, i think it was a pretty good deal. I plan on tearing it down and doing a semi restoration in the summer. its been clearly neglected so i suspect i will need to do a fair amount.
1. parts and manuals, so far i know it needs front shocks, tie rods, brakes, cables, lots of small stuff, whats your guys favorite online atv parts store? where can i find a good repair manual?
2 - starts and drives great, shifts a bit hard? not sure whats normal because i dont have a point of referance. i have to almost lean back in the seat and lever my foot up to get it to shift, seems like there is either alot of play in something (shift lever itself is tight) or there is a long travel, or it just dosent want to shift. also the hi / low / reverse lever needs to go past the gate a bit to actually shift into gear, and seems to need me to shift into nutral before shifting into reverse (not sure what your supposed to do). also wondering a bit about the history of the machine, because the plastics have a slot for a dash mounted shifter, but the one on it is a gated shifter right above the pull starter.
3. seat and plastics repair, seat is quite torn up with a seat cover over it, plastics are pretty cracked up, these items i havent found replacements for for any reasonable price, i dont care a whole lot about asthetics but whats the best way to functionally repair these things? is there reasonably priced replacements somewhere? i plan to bedline the whole thing after im done.
4. there was no title, but i did get a bill of sale, will it be difficult to get it titled / registered? (im in mn)
thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to being part of the community
I have a 1999 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 trying to get fixed up so my grandson can go out in the woods with me.
We have owned it over 10 years. It got harder to start, until it finally would not. Replaced the carb. Right afterwards, it started and ran nicely, but after turning it off, would not restart. Tonight I used starting fluid and ran, then died. Adjusted the idle up a little, used more starting fluid and ran great. It idled about 15 minutes. Turned it off, and restarted. Ran it around the yard about 5 minutes. Turned it off, and would not restart.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there...
Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled ass to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co.
Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads!
Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles.
PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.
Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb!
So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite?
Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield.
First fire up - lots of smoke
While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.
Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues.
Testing Diff Lock in High Range
Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS:
put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off.
Long Live The King
All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump.
I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks Hope you didn't hate my post.
What battery type is best wet cell, agm or lithium? Who makes the most reliable battery for atv's? I need to replace a battery on my qtv. It had a wet cell lead acid. What doe you recomend for a replacement battery that is not a fortune and that is reliable?
Just a couple of things since i get various atvs.
They always need seat cover and always need oil and other minor items.
My question is Do you buy any specific motor oil for them, i heard you must get atv oil or will mess up the clutch.
Not sure if correct but didnt want to find out hard way. Is there a cheaper oil or can you use regular motor oil?
Next they always need a new seat cover, any good places to buy bulk or cheap vinyl to re do the seats with out spending
30-50 dollars on a specific cover?
whats you go to places for parts, i use amazon, ebay any others that offer a good deal?
that goes for hard parts or just cables and or clips, wiring, bolts etc no wrong answer here.
always looking for new ways to find parts for the older atvs. TIA Az
Or did I just let out a million dollar idea??
Just wanting to see if any one has dealt with this before. I belive its losing spark after its been shut down from running for awhile ive got to wait about an hr an it will fire back up. I'm in the process of trouble shooting now.
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