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By middlebrookgt
I have replaced the cracked stator cover on my non-running 2006 LT-F400F that I purchased recently, checked all the shafts vs the service manual and pics and advice here. I replaced missing gears, bushings and washers, made sure that truth marks were all aligned properly, that the shift cam springs felt like they returned properly, etc. IAfter installing the new stator cover I checked the transfer lever for proper movement from L-H-R and then cranked it up. Happily, it runs and changes gears well in L, but it will not shift into H or R for anything. I have opened it back up and am going back through it looking for the missing puzzle piece(s) but how can I best check that I have everything right this time before buttoning it back up?
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By DaveswMN
Pulled my '86 Moto4 out of shed where it sat for 20 years. I knew it smoked. checked it over a little put in gas and it fired right up!!
Drove about 100 yards, ran about half throttle wouldn't idle. Put on somenew parts, jug/piston and rings, carb and valve seals.
'went together ok, tuned it over by hand about 6 revs whick went well. Hit the starter it fired for about 6 revs and quit. tried it again fired once and then th sound of something slipping like maybe chain slipping over spoket.
Took cover off to watch cam sproket, hit starter again, heard same noise and the cam sproket was not turning but jumping a bit. Chain was still tight. You will probably tell me I need to split the lower case but hoping there mightbe something else.
I don't fully understand the chain tightener, the plunger only moves about 1/4 inch, should it move much more than that when off the motor and compressing it by hand?
Thanks for any thoughts.
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By SouthARriverRat
I was given a quad 4 years ago. Before that it was sitting at the edge of the woods for 17 years. I think it’s a 86 230 quad but that’s just a guess I have. Never had much dealings with a Suzuki mostly Honda atc’s and Kawasaki. Anyways. The bike was sitting at the edge of the woods with weeds growing through it. I couldn’t see the wheels, nor the rear diff. A family member who had bought it in the early 90’s had it and ask he if I wanted it. I said I’m not interested in buying in but if it’s free sure. Might have some use for some of the parts on day. Well I drug it out the woods with a tractor. None of the wheels turned. I loaded it up bright it home and dropped it beside my shed where it sat for the four years I had it. Until…. 2 weeks ago my wife said I needed to declutter. I thought to my self. Well I haven’t even glanced at it since I had it. So I might as well see if it’s worth fixing, sale it, or scrap it. I knew the wheels wouldn’t turn. I soaked the intire 4-wheeler in penetrate oil, resparying it every few hrs for the next few days, aired up the tyres, and keep rocking it back n forth until it started to roll. The key switch was all to pieces and their was no battery. So I tried to pull the recoil. Nothing. I removed the recoil. Soaked it in a tub of diesel got it working. I put a wrench on the crankshaft. It did not budge. Hmmmm no good. Well I guess better check the oil. Even tho I know it’s locked up. I could see water in through the sight glass. I pulled the clutch cover off. Rust and water everywhere. Mmm mmm mmm my favorite cocktail. I sprayed it all down let it soak. Took all the clutches n things apart, cleaned all the rust off. Lubed it up and put back together. I thought to myself. It’s going to leak without a gasket and I’m not buying gaskets until I know it’s worth the money. So I put a small bead of rtv around the cover and let it cure before I reinstalled it. Tired my luck again a spinning the crank. No luck. I had a hunch before I began that the piston or crank was froze because the seat has always been laying on the front rack as long as I’ve known and the air box cover has been missing exposing the air filter not connected to the intake tube. I pulled the plug finally. lol. I sprayed 3 cans of brake clean in the jug and screwed the plug back on. I let it sit over night. The next morning I filled the cylinder up with deep creep. And let it sit and sit and sit. For a few hrs. I slowly pulled the recoil. It moved!!! I moved it maybe 3/8” and I stopped pulled oil drain bolt drained the oil and fill the cylinder up with a mix of penetrating oil and gun oil. And let is sit for again over night. Pulled the plug out. Pulled the recoil a few times. It moved nicely no sounds of anything scratching rings and no hard spot while pulling. Next, I hooked up my spark tester. It was firing great. Nice fat white/blue spark. Now time for the carb. I unscrewed the throttle valve cap and the throttle valve was stuck. I unscrewed the choke nut and the choke plunger was stuck… I I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and penetrate oil. Screwed the cap back down and the choke nut and I let it sit again over night. Next day they came out like they should. So then I removed the carb. I could see the ethanol cancer before I even tried to remove the carb bowel. I put it in a coffee can of diesel fuel. After sitting I removed the fuel bowel. Here’s a tip I’ve learn on bowel screws a while back. Clamp the carb in a vice with a thin block of wood covering the jaws of the vice. Take a punch same size as the screws. Maybe slightly larger. And rap the punch with a hammer a few times. Not to hard lol. Works great on brake reservoir bolts. Never stripped nor broke one doing it like this. I got the bowel off. Their was so much dry crude I could not see the starter jet. I cleaned it without removing the jets. I took my Tourch tip cleaners and brake cleaner finally got the wire to push through the main jet and starter jet. I put the bowel back on. Put a fuel line on the carb and a small lawn tractor fuel tank full of fresh fuel. I turned the carb every way I could. Couldn’t get fuel… took the carb back apart except for the main jet, starter jet, or the mixture screw, and low idle screw. I let it soak. Could it blow threw the fuel inlet tube. I tried inserting the tip cleaner. No luck.. I took a old cloth hanger, cut it 2 1/2” long and ground it down to about have it’s dia. Then I drove it trough the carb with a hammer. It cleared the way. I put the carb back on the engine and hooked it all up except for the vent hose. Drained the crank and filled it with rotella 15w-40. Put in a new plug dipped in fuel. I pulled on the recoil and it started and idled on the second pull. I let it run for a minute or two. Drained the oil and refilled it. It started back up. I started driving it around and after around 5 mins I had to stop. I was out of oil. Major oil leak. Time to strip it down clean it up and start bringing her to life. I knew I could make it run again but never dreamed it would sound as good as it did. Let alone as cheap as I did. Brake clean and oil free from work. lol. Rtv $3.58. Fuel…$3.19 a gallon. The oil leak is a busted oil drain bolt cap cover. I’m also missing the box box lid. It would sure be a lot easier if I knew what kind of machine I have. I knew but not not know. I know years ago when the family member bought the bike a few months later it was stolen and returned with all the stickers peeled off and the wheels painted black. Who ever stole it also wrecked and bent the front rack and left Handel bar. I did not know until now that they removed all the serial numbers… stamped on the lower part of the cylinder jug is 229. That’s why I believe it’s a 230. And it resembles a quadrunner. It’s 2wd with reverse and hi/low. Shaft driven. I will upload pictures and a video. If anyone what’s to share any wisdom on this ol girl feel free. I like to know what it is and I appreciate any knowledge your willing to share.
IMG_2395.mov
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By quadcrazy
The United States military operates on the forefront of technological advancements, and when it comes to conquering challenging terrains, the employment of All-Terrain Vehicles (ATVs) and Utility Task Vehicles (UTVs) has proven to be indispensable. These robust vehicles provide the military with enhanced mobility, agility, and versatility across a variety of operational scenarios. In this article, we will delve into how and what ATVs and UTVs the US military employs, highlighting their crucial role in modern warfare.
1. Enhanced Mobility:
ATVs and UTVs play a vital role in improving the mobility of the US military, allowing forces to traverse diverse terrains efficiently. These vehicles are often equipped with four-wheel drive capabilities, high ground clearance, and powerful engines, enabling them to conquer challenging landscapes such as deserts, mountains, forests, and even snow-covered regions. The military harnesses their maneuverability to transport troops, equipment, and supplies swiftly across the battlefield, reducing response times and increasing operational efficiency.
2. Tactical Deployment:
ATVs and UTVs offer the US military the ability to rapidly deploy forces to critical locations. Compact and lightweight designs allow for easy transport via air or land, enabling quick insertion of troops into remote and inaccessible areas. This feature is particularly valuable for special operations forces, facilitating stealthy and rapid assaults, reconnaissance missions, and target acquisitions.
3. Versatility and Adaptability:
The US military employs a wide array of ATVs and UTVs, each specifically designed to meet diverse operational requirements. One such vehicle is the Polaris MRZR (Military RZR), which has become a staple in the US military's inventory. The MRZR features multiple variants, including two-seat and four-seat configurations, and offers customization options for different mission needs. These vehicles can be armed with weapons, equipped with communication systems, or used for casualty evacuation, command and control, and cargo transportation.
4. Specialized Operations:
Beyond traditional combat roles, ATVs and UTVs have proven invaluable in specialized military operations. The US military utilizes modified and specialized variants, such as the Can-Am Outlander Max ATV and the Yamaha Wolverine X4 UTV, for specific purposes. These vehicles are often equipped with accessories like racks, winches, and cargo carriers to support activities such as surveillance, intelligence gathering, and explosive ordnance disposal (EOD). The ability to navigate off-road with agility allows troops to access areas that are otherwise challenging to reach, providing a tactical advantage in various scenarios.
5. Training and Recreation:
In addition to their operational deployment, ATVs and UTVs are also used for training purposes within the US military. These vehicles enable personnel to familiarize themselves with off-road driving techniques, enhance their situational awareness, and simulate realistic combat scenarios. Moreover, the military recognizes the importance of recreational activities for the well-being and morale of service members. ATVs and UTVs are utilized in organized recreational programs, offering soldiers an opportunity to unwind and build camaraderie during their downtime.
Conclusion:
The US military's utilization of ATVs and UTVs demonstrates their recognition of the importance of mobility, adaptability, and versatility in modern warfare. These vehicles enhance operational effectiveness, providing swift maneuverability across diverse terrains and enabling rapid deployments to critical locations. By employing a range of specialized variants, the military ensures that these vehicles can fulfill a wide spectrum of mission requirements, from combat operations to intelligence gathering and training exercises. As technology continues to advance, it is certain that ATVs and UTVs will remain essential assets, empowering the US military to conquer even the most challenging terrains with ease.
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