2004 Polaris sportsman 700 twin Efi

[sheba2012]

Replaced pump and sock along with the filter still only 15 lbs of fuel pressure any ideas?

[Mech]

Low voltage to the pump... Bad earth at the pump...

[sheba2012]

12.5 to the pump and replaced ground along with all new fuel lines thinking one may be partially collapsed 

[Mech]

Have you tested the pressure right at the tank or pump, or without any regulator ?

It might get better if you let it run free for a bit, pumping fuel through.. You might hear the revs increase after thirty seconds free run.. 

[sheba2012]

No only tested it at the fuel rail after the injectors

[Gwbarm]

Sounds like regulator may not be working or have a restriction, pump should slow down or shut off when correct pressure is reached, I would check pressure before regulator as Mech suggested.

[sheba2012]

The pump does shut off only showing 15 psi at the fuel rail

[Gwbarm]

Thats good so it is pressuring up, I would check my pressure before the regulator, running it should be about 35 PSI, it will be lower at first and them build up to that.

[sheba2012]

Ok I'll try removing the regulator and let ya know 

[Mech]

I'm pretty sure the pressure should be more like fifty pounds.. 

I'd let it run pumping fuel..

I've looked in the books before trying to figure how the ecu knows to switch the pump off and there doesn't seem to be any pressure sensor. So.. either the pump runs full time, (and it is possible the ecu would slow it at low fuel requirement times), or, it detects the load on the motor when the pressure gets high and switches off. If the new motor was a bit tight or drawing too much power it might be tricking the ecu..  A few minutes run might get it drawing less amps.

[sheba2012]

So I checked the regulator and it's just bypassing all the pressure straight out the side.

Any ideas on where to get a replacement? Or am I better off to delete it and go to an external one?

[Mech]

Ok.. good stuff.

I wouldn't know about an aftermarket. Is the reg on the fuel rail or injector is it ? I think I've seen aftermarket ones being discussed so I guess they are available for that particular bike. There are two common variations of reg(on vehicles in general), some have a vacuum hose and some don't.. and of course they come in different pressures, but they don't vary by much. 

It might just have a speck of rust under the valve though. perhaps if you put some fairly high pressure air in there it will blow it out..

[sheba2012]

My particular regulator is in the tank and is just after the pump

 

[Mech]

Oh ok.. like I say, I'm not familiar at all with those bikes.. I'm in New Zealand and polaris is fairly new here and not very common.

I'd look up the original part number,(and price) and then go looking online for an aftermarket one that's sold as a replacement for that part number. Sometimes the original part is cheaper than the replacement.. especially if they are claiming the replacement is some sort of "performance" part.. or some such bullshit.

[sheba2012]

Unfortunately Polaris only offers the pump sock and regulator as an assembly along with the tank I'm looking at an aftermarket from quantum.

[sheba2012]

Now onto my next problem with this particular unit.....any ideas on where to look when the gauge pod stops working completely?

[Gwbarm]

If it has stopped working completely sounds like power is not getting to the unit I would start by checking to make sure you have power going in.

[sheba2012]

At the back of the gauge itself?

[Mech]

Yeah, power and earth are the first things..  Process is key and stop switch on, does the gauge work, if not check there is 12v between pins 1 and eight, and between 2 and 8. If there is 12 volt there, replace gauge, if there isn't power to those plug terminals then check the wiring.
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. N/C
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. N/C
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil

Yes on the plug on the back of the gauge. It doesn't matter if it's plugged in or not.

[sheba2012]

Ok thanks 

I'll keep ya updated 

[sheba2012]

good power at pin 1 and 2 but a weak ground at pin 8

[Mech]

Well wires mostly give trouble where they end in their metal terminals. Sometimes they get corrosion, and sometimes they break the wire inside the insulation. You could try flexing that 8 brown wire and see if it will make a better contact, and you should look in the back of the plug at the wire, and look for any sign of green verdigris where it goes into the terminal.

Other than that, locate the places the wiring goes to an earth and do the same checks at each of them.

[Mech]

And I just looked in the wiring diagram and see that in the early 2004 model that 8 brown wire actually goes to the diagnostic plugs earth, where it branches, and the other wire goes to the high beam light where it branches again, and then from there it goes to an earth described as C.

If the high beam light works brightly then you can forget the earth C..  it will be in the speedo end, or where it crimps into the diagnostic plug terminal or the high beam light terminal.

 

And, if it's a late 2004 the 8 brown goes from the speedo straight to the high beam light and then to earth C. It doesn't go to the diagnostic plug first.. 

Edited January 26, 2023 by Mech

[sheba2012]

Ok so new gauge and good ground and still no gauge functions not even a light

All other functions work as they should hog beam awd etc

[Mech]

Mmmm..  Well the service manual says to check those pins for power and earth and the gauge should go..  Better check the power/earth is getting right in, not just to the end of the wire.. crimped connectors can get dirty on the wire.

 

[sheba2012]

So found out some back story on this bike it quit working after being totally submerged....