Quantcast
Jump to content


clutch adjustment question....


mga

Recommended Posts

on my 2k big bear 400, there's a clutch adjustment on the side that says "increase" or "decrease". Only thing service manual says to turn it one way or the other.

my question is, what happens when i decrease it? what happens if i increase it?  does it effect shifting?

I'm not sure if it's ever been adjusted, but, it was tempting to play with...ut, i didn't touch it until i asked you guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kawasaki adjusts the same way. 

Be interesting to see how it goes for you. First time I did it after I bought the machine (used) it shifted really stiff. As much as I have tried over the years it has never been as easy shifting as it was before I first adjusted it. 

And I have adjusted it frequently over the last 20 years I have owned it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Gwbarm said:

Increase tightens the clutch, when you feel resistance toward increase, back off counter clockwise about 1/8 to 1/4 inch 

ok, thanks. my post above was typed without my glasses on...obviously.

i wanted to adjust it because when i put it infirst gear, it wants to lunge forward. i thought maybe the clutch was too tight (?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/23/2023 at 8:57 AM, Tiha said:

Kawasaki adjusts the same way. 

Be interesting to see how it goes for you. First time I did it after I bought the machine (used) it shifted really stiff. As much as I have tried over the years it has never been as easy shifting as it was before I first adjusted it. 

And I have adjusted it frequently over the last 20 years I have owned it. 

i got it to shift a little easier, but the only hard gears are getting out of reverse and into first. the rest shift pretty good. I'm going to play around with the clutch some more and see if it improves.  Maybe that idle is just a bit too high, i'll play with that too. To get it out of reverse, i reach down and pull it up by hand. Too bad I couldn't figure out a way to put a hand shift on it right up along the fuel tank.  😄

ha....i just saw them online... not expensive either....i'm going to look into it more

Edited by mga
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

so, what exactly does that screw do with the clutch? I'm trying to get a visual as to what it's doing inside the cover.

 

And, how much do you loosen that nut up? I can turn the nut out a lot and that screw will turn out with it. It seems like the nut is holding the adjustment screw at whatever setting i make it. If i removed it and put the adjustment screw back in, what harm will it do?

dumb questions, i know, but, like i said, if i had a visual in my mind..i'd feel better knowing what i'm doing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

clutch adjustment. I loosened that nut, but if i loosen it too much the screw turns a lot. If i just loosen the nut a little, the screw hardly turns.

So, i guess my question would be what's a good starting point? Should i turn the screw in all the way then back out a little, then tighten the nut? Or, should i back it out all the way, and tighten it slightly, then tighten the nut?

I guess what i'm asking is where is the "sweet spot" for that screw? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

 

so, i bought this cheap hand shifter from amazon and it actually works much better than the foot shifter. I'll upgrade it to a much better one in the near future.

(the wires you see are for my 15 gallon sprayer mounted on the back)

don't pay attention to my seat...lol..atv is used as a work horse only....not going in the auto show

IMG_4150.jpeg

Edited by mga
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You just need to loosen the clutch adjusting nut enough that it's not locking the bolt(about a half a turn), then hold it while you turn the screw/bolt, then lock the bolt/screw up again without letting the bolt/screw turn.

When the clutch wears the free play reduces and so you are backing the adjuster a small distance away from the pushrod(20) in the diagram.

Clutch.png

Clutch actuator.png

Parts 19 and 21 in the second photo push the pushrod.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/27/2023 at 9:05 PM, Gwbarm said:

I like the hand shifter idea, but how does it attach, the foot shifter is still there.

it simply attaches to the shift shaft same as the foot linkage. I left the foot linkage just in case i didn't like it. but, i'll remove it.

with the hand shifter it takes little effort, however, i could see a problem if you're into fast rough terrain riding and you need to shift gears and hold on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or the weight of the lever tried to shift gears for you on rough ground.

I used to have an old 38 bsa 250 sidevalve that had been updated from a hand shift to a foot shift, but it was a real early box and didn't have a ratchet on the lever, you had to move the lever just the right amount to get the next gear, and it was hard tail with a sprung seat, so if it was a bit rough, which was everywhere around here, and the seat was bouncing up and down, you had to keep the your weight on the peg and shift real careful..  Those were the days..  haha.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Gwbarm said:

I liked the idea because i sometimes like to ride around barefooted and toes seem to take more of a beating shifting than they used to never noticed it until recently, certainly it couldnt be thant im getting old.

amazon....$13.   i bought a cheap one to try it out. 

16 hours ago, Mech said:

Or the weight of the lever tried to shift gears for you on rough ground.

I used to have an old 38 bsa 250 sidevalve that had been updated from a hand shift to a foot shift, but it was a real early box and didn't have a ratchet on the lever, you had to move the lever just the right amount to get the next gear, and it was hard tail with a sprung seat, so if it was a bit rough, which was everywhere around here, and the seat was bouncing up and down, you had to keep the your weight on the peg and shift real careful..  Those were the days..  haha.

ugh..hard tail. we did a fund raising ride..500 miles round trip....i rode a sportster on the way down, then a custom bike that was hard tail on the way back....never again! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anyways, back to the clutch adjustment....i noticed when going up a hill, it bogs down unless i keep downshifting...not sure how normal this is. I felt for a 400 it would have a little more balls. It doesn't sound like the clutch is slipping, it just really bogs down. would that be normal for an atv?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes you can detect clutch slip be going along some very slight incline, get it into the lower end of it's power band and then open the throttle suddenly and listen.. You might notice a slight rise in revs that doesn't seem right, or that slowly gets caught up with as the bike gains speed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

it's definitely not slipping. could i have adjusted it too tight? then again, i don't want it slipping either....maybe i should just leave well enough alone.  lol

i gotta say, that side hand shifter is great...man, i love that thing, it shifts so much better now. I think the problem was the foot shifter linkage was just worn too much and had too much play in it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





×
×
  • Create New...