Camshaft kit questions?

[p5200]

I'm not sure yet but, would this kit be of better quality/ hardness than the inferior soft exhaust cam lobes that wear out so quickly?  https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwilp-KE0LP-AhXa_uMHHejnAJoYABAYGgJ5bQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESauD2iBPqGQOGJWta7Vagzwu14qMcHIBfYtBHxqp2zv5MaZY8Qhrh1RsBS7XpVncrxLwapNUR8nWH0Tc6bAcIwmspP7MZKl1M0iMgw7lIT7b-PVjfgdiuCY-LbCH7-LBl8u5PG4mCbprMyC0&sig=AOD64_3Uda2bcI8yOWvPCE1A7XYQbKIwNw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj0_teE0LP-AhWqkIkEHbtEBCUQwg8oAHoECAEQMA&nis=8&adurl=

[p5200]

Other suggestions are welcomed! 🙂

[MarkinAR]

I would seriously doubt it.  Niche makes some pretty junk Chinese stuff.  I've had decent luck with their cylinders but their heads are junk, pistons are absolute garbage, etc.  It's hard to beat OEM even if they are sometimes flawed.  Or HotCams or Webb if either make a cam for that.

[Gwbarm]

I totally agree with OEM parts being the better option, but I understand that you could sink 1000.00 in a hurry buying OEM engine parts, I always read all the reviews, it has a good rating ,I have used Niche stuff, I think they are one of the best aftermarket brands out there, but I have never used their engine parts. The only rating that disturbs me is one guy said they were .001 off, if I was doing this I would have everything ready before I ordered, get right on it and see if everything fits right so if there are problems you are within he return window.

Are you having trouble with your recent purchase?

[p5200]

Well, I'm not really sure just yet. For a while I was thinking the bogging I get when I flip the throttle quickly was carburetor problems. Then, I ran across numerous posts on how the Polaris 500 was notorious, about the exhaust lobes on the camshaft being too soft. When the new carb was put on, I don't think they adjusted the pilot air adjustment. I assume  if the cam lobe has a lot of wear it would show up in a compression check? If, I rev the throttle a little quicker than medium speed I get now bogging. I f I flip it really fast it will bogging and lightly pop just a slight bit but, nothing really bad. I can ride it with no problems. I do think it needs a new drive belt. Sometimes when riding, it kinda seems like it's slipping some and I get that smell of melting/ burning rubber. 🙂

 

[Gwbarm]

If you smell rubber burning, I would say it is slipping a little, maybe not much or you would feel engine racing, if you have a service manual you can check that the lobes are in proper specs. I would think there would have to be lots of wear before you would feel bogging. If you haven't already you might want to adjust the valves if there was much wear they would be too tight. 

[Mech]

I thought those parts were suspiciously cheap..

I think I agree with Gw about the wear having to be pretty bad to cause a flat spot , If the cam is wearing though you will get more valve clearance not less.

I'd be pretty sure the running would come right with a bit of a carb tune..

[p5200]

From the info I got, the belt has never been changed. I think I'll go ahead and put a new belt on since it's been smelling pretty bad and seems to be kind of Jerky made that word up lol! Also, I'll take a go at checking/ adjusting the valves and adjusting pilot air screw on carb. I hope the cam lobes are OK, I don't really want to dig into the motor that deep already. Thanks folks! 🙂

[Mech]

If this is a belt drive, does that mean the clutch isn't in the engine oil ?

If they're prone to wearing the cam, I think I'd put some supper slippery in the oil. Cams have always been prone to oil shortages, because they are a long way from the pump at startup, because of air bubbles in the oil, because it's the first place to run short of oil when there isn't enough in the engine.  The additive I'd add would have moly-whatever it is, in it.

[p5200]

The primary and secondary clutches are not in oil. They just have a housing cover that has a gasket around it just to keep dust and dirt out. I'll check and see if I can find the right additive to add to my oil. I've got my fingers crossed that the cam lobes are ok. I'm going to try to adjust the carb and valves. I have a feeler gauge but, I haven't done it before. Thanks!

[Mech]

You need to check the valves are flat on their ends where the adjuster presses. If it's worn dished you have to allow for that. If it is flat then the proper(accurate) way to use feeler gauges is to use two at a time, one a thou bigger than you want, and one a thou smaller than you want, then adjust it so one gauge slides through without any hindrance and the other just drags.

Edited April 19, 2023 by Mech

[p5200]

So I guess I'll need one set at .007" and one set at. 005" since all 4 valves calls for .006". I'll look at the service manual for both carb and valve adj. I think I'd might as well do both at once since I have to pull plastics and gas tank off for both jobs. Thanks!

[Mech]

Yup five and seven.

[Gwbarm]

If you don't already have them you should get the feeler gauges that are bent at a slight angle on the end, they are a little easier to use. Recently got a set of those and I really like them.

[p5200]

I didn't know they made them like that, I'll have to get some. Thanks!

[Gwbarm]

They also are a little longer , you can hold on to them easier.

[Mech]

You can also buy feeler strips from engineering supply shops. They are about eight inches long and can be bent or cut to requirements.. good for doing valves running so the good feelers don't get hammered.

For regular feelers I like the ones with the taper to them. Taper in width that is. The finer tip is slightly more flexible, and doesn't get obstructed so you can go in at an angle if needed.

[Gwbarm]

Hows the Polaris working out, I know you have had a few problems, but how do you like it, never see these in my area for sale, but ran across this one, rough shape for 1500.00, so you got a good deal on yours. Yours looks good.

 

 

[p5200]

So far, I like it pretty well. I'm going to need to replace an outer tie rod end on the left side while sitting on it. I may, just replace them all. I'll probably get aftermarket replacements. I've been trying to find out what kind of bolts I need to put the factory muffler back on it. I looked up replacement bolts but, I can't see how they could possibly work. The mounting brackets on the muffler have like one inch holes in them. The aftermarket exhaust that's on there now, has small torque head bolts/ nuts with some type of washers. I think those washers may be too small for the holes that are in the OEM muffler. I get a chance I'll post a photo of the OEM and the aftermarket. I'm pretty happy with it so far hope to get new tires on it but, I want to take care of nesecites first. 🙂

Edited April 25, 2023 by p5200