Suzuki Eiger 400 2004 Rear Wheels Locked (Next Restoration Project)

[Gwbarm]

Still working it, I got the bulk of the stressed metal off with a diamond bur and finishing up with the oil stone, looking a lot better but still can't get the shift dogs off the shaft. There are raised areas at the outer edge of the trough which I think are stopping it from coming off. I found a stone that would just fit in the trough, just slow going, just going a little at a time, I will eventually get it. It will now go all the way to the end of the grooved area and im sure will work fine, but I want to keep at it until I can get the dogs off the shaft. waiting on parts anyway, I am getting some new OEM thrush washers and outer gear, so I will be positive they will be the right fit. If you noticed in the last phot, bottom right is the stone im using, it is actually a dental instrument sharpening stone small and good to get in the tight areas.

 

 

[Gwbarm]

Well finally got it off, im not real proud of it , I ground the end a little too much, I knew I went to far, I wasn't going to take it any farther,  it still wouldn't come off, I was beginning to think I had a bad cog in an area I couldn't see, so I took a pry bar behind the dogs and with very little effort it came off. There must have been one little metal tag keeping it from coming off, now just waiting on parts.

Im still trying to figure out what happened with the washer, even with the gear on backward it shouldn't have eat into the shaft if it was working correctly. Got the new gear in it was nicer than I thought from the photo on Ebay I thought it had some surface rust on the bushing, hoping it would clean up well when I got it, but no rust at all, what I thought was rust was brass on the bushing, which was completely gone on my old one, must have been some sort of plating. Trying to find some new washers that I can get quickly, found some just won't be here until the middle of July, I guess I can wait, still got a little polishing to do on the shaft.

[Mech]

Ha..  Danged power tools..  That's why I don't like them.

The washer got mangled because it was squished between the gear jambed solid on the case, and the rotating gearbox shaft.. It was never designed for that. Neither the washers or the bush should have any load on them. When it's not being used the gear only rotates very slowly in relation to the gearbox shaft it's on, and once the gear gets engaged, it's locked to the shaft, so not wearing at all, and only has to resist the pressure of the two gears pushing apart as they turn under load.

Well done so far..  If you can get the parts at a good price, it looks like being a good buy..

 

[Gwbarm]

Every thing is looking good so far , just continuing cleaning things up a bit, got most of my parts ordered, I haven't ordered the rotor yet, still trying to decide, I do not want OEM if its still the one with external magnets, which it shows in the parts diagram, all of the aftermarket ones show internal magnets. Still looking around on Ebay for a descent case, found a couple but i haven't ordered one yet, not sure if I want to pay shipping for all the mud and rust corrosion and grease on them, plus they were expensive, but what did pop up while I was doing my search was an OEM carb, which I have been looking for at the right price. I needed one for this project and then I will have all OEM carbs back on all my bikes. It was listed for 15.00 I thought, but didn't look close enough , it was starting bid, I don't usually bid on stuff, to aggravating, but the seller had a small inventory and this was the only ATV part listed, I like buying from people like that, just trying to make a little extra by cleaning out the garage,so I put 40.00 on it, close to what I paid for the last one, not expecting to get it, most go for about 80.00+. Just forgot about it and ended up getting it for for 20.00. Curious to see how bad it is, I suspect it was just taken off and replaced and stuck back in the garage. Not much to look at but it is OEM. The only thing is she said it came off an Automatic mine is manual, I don't think that will make a difference, but it might be jetted slightly different, I will have to see.

 

After I won the bid she messaged me and apologized how dirty it was and promised to clean it up before shipping. Nice gesture!

[Mech]

Oh that's cheap enough. A few rubber bits and it will be like new I bet.

About the only real problem they have is if the idle mixture screw is seized, and even those can be got out..

[Gwbarm]

Ebay is so much fun, im trying to figure out which flywheel to buy, I go to this one seller and he has ratings, I look at his rating and one rating is for the rmstator, another is for a different brand than he is selling and so on, so I figured this is not even truth fuii. So I go to another seller with ratings he has exactly to same ratings and comments that the other seller had, word for word, so one or the other just cut and pasted the rating that were bogus to start with to his page, that's why I only use eBay when nothing else works out.

[Mech]

My grown sons tell me  that nobody buys off ebay any more , everyone uses facebook now...    Apparently there are for sale sites for different areas of the world and country.. 

I don't use either but they sure do.. 

[Gwbarm]

Things are going to smoothly, for one of my projects, so I have to stir the pot a little. I decided to go back and look at the cracked side cover again, I hadn't really looked it over closely since I got it off. It pretty bad, I can probably JB well it and make it work, but im not sure I want to do that. It is really clean 

 

Looking on the inside the crack circles the bearing  area I can see that getting worse.

 

Looking from the outside the crack is all the way through I can see light through it

 

Plus the sealing surface was damaged a bit doesnt show up in the photo as bad as it really is.

 

 

So back to eBay, I tried Facebook first, I can't really find the parts I need there, may different in NZ, any way I found one looked good and straight, with all the bearings and stator, the only difference I saw was the stator plugs were black on his and white on mine, so who has the aftermarket stator, who knows. He wanted 69.00 and free shipping, so not bad, it's fairly heavy probably 20.00 + to ship. Most all other ones I looked at were stripped, case only, and going for 40.00. You just can't get 5 or 10 dollar used parts anymore. Still haven't figured which rotor to get , heard some complaints about magnets not being strong enough in aftermarket units. I can see that , the originals are strong, the aftermarket ones are under another piece of metal to keep them from coming off, so it makes sense they would be weaker. I may go with RMstator from Canada I have heard they are good.

[Mech]

You'll have a spare stator to flog off for more than the case costs !

[Gwbarm]

I got my eBay purchased engine side cover today, it was not bad at all, actually very impressed, I have gotten some junky parts off eBay before for a steep price.

 

I still wanted to clean it up a bit, so maybe the new mud I go through won't stick to it so bad. Didn't want to get too crazy with it , but looks better. Cleaner works better, right!

 

 

As I was inspecting everything I noticed that the stators were different. So I was trying to decide which was the aftermarket or maybe they are both aftermarket. Nothing screams aftermarket more than green, so I determined my original side case had an aftermarket stator, that's OK it actually works. So now I have a delimma do I go back on with the aftermarket that I know works, or take a chance that the OEM one will work, 

 

The new one kind of had a number on it.

The original that came out of it had no markings at all, and had thinner wire.

[Mech]

I'm a lazy guy so I'd do the resistance checks and if the new one is to spec I'd stick it on..

The cleaner does do a nice job..

[Gwbarm]

Interesting, I was just looking up the resistance specs when I saw your post, those were my thoughts exactly.

[Gwbarm]

Looking around at the old case and found a washer stuck to one of the magnets pulled up all the drawings and im not missing any washers, I had already ordered a new one. This one on the right goes on the main shaft that the gear was put on backwards, instead of the one on the left. I suspect someone lost a washer and just found one close to the right size, he only missed it by a little bit.

 

 

[Mech]

Ha..  Amazing huh. Sad thing is, I've known mechanics no better..

When I was getting trained I was told that we can adjust a bill with the stroke of a pen, but we can't adjust a bad reputation, and so take my time, make sure everything is right, and if there's ever any doubt about the assembly as it's going on, back track before it gets worse. I've seen mecahnics know things weren't right and be saying, "it's probably come right when it's all together..  Haha  yeah right.

Good work Gw.. check everything, double check it, then triple check it before proceeding. That's what we were told.

[Gwbarm]

Got everything back in place this afternoon , correct washers back in place, shift dogs sliding good on the shaft, change mechanism working good, ready for the new flywheel and oilseals to come in. Decided to pull the old flywheel off and clean that up a bit. Nut came off fairly easily with impact

 

It takes a 50mm flywheel puller, it worked very well, the large piece screws onto the flywheel and there is smaller piece that screws onto the crank to protect the shaft then the bolt screws against the smaller piece.

It came right off.

Everything's looking good, waiting on new flywheel.

[Mech]

Mate..  Impact drivers are hard on threads, even undoing them..  Only use them if you really have to..

[Gwbarm]

Thanks! I only use them coming off, didn't know it would stress the threads coming off. I was concerned about the puller threads because it was on there tight. Im still going to have to devise something to torque it back on , I don't have the special tool for that.

[Mech]

Rattle guns do damage even undoing. It's the speed. If metal under pressure are rubbed together it causes galling, and the greater the pressure or speed the worse the risk of it happening. The rattle gun moves the nut fast, but in millisecond bursts. If you undo things with a long bar you put the pressure on and over the course of a fraction of a second you see the socket start to creep, then accelerate a little, and then after a quarter of a turn it winds off a bit so there is no load.

You will be able to imagine what the effect would be if you used a bar and just wrenched it hard and fast, it would try and rip up a bit of metal if the threads were dry..  The rattle gun does that same effect in tiny increments..  it wrenches the nut around in tiny fast steps and tries to cause galling. 

It happens..  damage happens..  Keep the rattle gun for extremely tight things you can't move with a bar is my advice.

You'll devise something to hold the flywheel. If it's not too tight use a bit of webbing wrapped around the outside and around a lever in such a way that as the load comes on the bar levers the webbing tighter and tighter. Clean the webbing and flywheel so there is grip, even put something sticky on both to help it.

[Mech]

Look up flat belt drives and see what they used to use as belt dressing to aid the grip.. Treacle works at speed. On my old lathe I use body sealer.. haha. It works good.

[Gwbarm]

Thank for the information on the rattle gun, I generally have only used them on large bolts like flywheel and clutch, because I don't take the time to find something to hold it while im loosening the bolt. I will be more cautious on using them.

I thought about using a strap wrench around the flywheel but didn't know if I would be able to hold it to go to 100 ft ads . The belt is a better idea if I can attach it to something rigid and them push down on the belt while im tightening it. I might be able to come in at an angle with a big crescent wrench and hold it that way , I haven't tried that yet. 

[Mech]

You need to arrange the webbing onto the lever so it self tightens and jambs. You will be able to block the lever against the foot peg or something. No effort required once the belt tightens.

With the diameter and area of a flywheel it will work..

Tie the webbing to the lever, wrap it around the flywheel and then attach it to the lever about an inch from the first knot..  If the slack is right it will start to pull the lever in as the belt tightens and the inch of leverage is what makes it jamb solid..

You'll figure it.

[Gwbarm]

Not familiar with webbing, what is that.

[Mech]

seat belt webbing, or tie-down if it's wide enough..

[Mech]

I'm sure Gw will suss it but for the benefit of the onlookers that might not be familiar with strap wrenches, it's the leverage of the one inch that works to jamb the belt solid, but it only works one way. The webbing needs to be right at the end of the lever, and that end run of belt has to be on the tension side so it gets pulled in towards the flywheel and in the direction of rotation.  If the belt keeps slipping it needs pulling off, turning over and sliding back on.

[Gwbarm]

Ok ok!  I have plenty of wide tie down that will work good for that. Thanks!

 

Thanks for clarifying strap wrench.

[Mech]

All good buddy.

A lot of what I post in here is stuff that I think might be useful for the watchers..  For every post there's a hundred views..  Some of what you and I might think is pretty basic, is generic sort of practices or info and probably helpful to some.

[Gwbarm]

After closer inspection I was right the new case had the original OEM stator and pickup coil.

 

VS the aftermarket ,no markings at all on pickup coil or stator and very sloppy wire connections.

 

I checked the resistance ratings on the pickup coil on both units.

The OEM one was 200 OHMs

The aftermarket one was 22OHMs

The power source coil resistance was 0 on both units. 

 

[Mech]

The zero reading is nothing to worry about, it's probably probably due to the accuracy tolerances of your meter. Too much resistance would be a worry.

 

Some gauges are rated/guaranteed to be no more than 3% inaccurate.

[Gwbarm]

Got my new flywheel in today installed one way bearing and got it installed, sure is nice and shiny.

 

Everything is ready to go back together, just waiting on oil seals.

 

[Mech]

Yup.. Cleanliness is next to godliness..  Nice work.

I suppose that should be Godliness....