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Suzuki Eiger 400 2004 Rear Wheels Locked (Next Restoration Project)

Go to solution Solved by Gwbarm,

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Thanks! I only use them coming off, didn't know it would stress the threads coming off. I was concerned about the puller threads because it was on there tight. Im still going to have to devise something to torque it back on , I don't have the special tool for that.

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Rattle guns do damage even undoing. It's the speed. If metal under pressure are rubbed together it causes galling, and the greater the pressure or speed the worse the risk of it happening. The rattle gun moves the nut fast, but in millisecond bursts. If you undo things with a long bar you put the pressure on and over the course of a fraction of a second you see the socket start to creep, then accelerate a little, and then after a quarter of a turn it winds off a bit so there is no load.

You will be able to imagine what the effect would be if you used a bar and just wrenched it hard and fast, it would try and rip up a bit of metal if the threads were dry..  The rattle gun does that same effect in tiny increments..  it wrenches the nut around in tiny fast steps and tries to cause galling. 

It happens..  damage happens..  Keep the rattle gun for extremely tight things you can't move with a bar is my advice.

You'll devise something to hold the flywheel. If it's not too tight use a bit of webbing wrapped around the outside and around a lever in such a way that as the load comes on the bar levers the webbing tighter and tighter. Clean the webbing and flywheel so there is grip, even put something sticky on both to help it.

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Thank for the information on the rattle gun, I generally have only used them on large bolts like flywheel and clutch, because I don't take the time to find something to hold it while im loosening the bolt. I will be more cautious on using them.

I thought about using a strap wrench around the flywheel but didn't know if I would be able to hold it to go to 100 ft ads . The belt is a better idea if I can attach it to something rigid and them push down on the belt while im tightening it. I might be able to come in at an angle with a big crescent wrench and hold it that way , I haven't tried that yet. 

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You need to arrange the webbing onto the lever so it self tightens and jambs. You will be able to block the lever against the foot peg or something. No effort required once the belt tightens.

With the diameter and area of a flywheel it will work..

Tie the webbing to the lever, wrap it around the flywheel and then attach it to the lever about an inch from the first knot..  If the slack is right it will start to pull the lever in as the belt tightens and the inch of leverage is what makes it jamb solid..

You'll figure it.

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I'm sure Gw will suss it but for the benefit of the onlookers that might not be familiar with strap wrenches, it's the leverage of the one inch that works to jamb the belt solid, but it only works one way. The webbing needs to be right at the end of the lever, and that end run of belt has to be on the tension side so it gets pulled in towards the flywheel and in the direction of rotation.  If the belt keeps slipping it needs pulling off, turning over and sliding back on.

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All good buddy.

A lot of what I post in here is stuff that I think might be useful for the watchers..  For every post there's a hundred views..  Some of what you and I might think is pretty basic, is generic sort of practices or info and probably helpful to some.

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After closer inspection I was right the new case had the original OEM stator and pickup coil.



VS the aftermarket ,no markings at all on pickup coil or stator and very sloppy wire connections.



I checked the resistance ratings on the pickup coil on both units.

The OEM one was 200 OHMs

The aftermarket one was 22OHMs

The power source coil resistance was 0 on both units. 



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The zero reading is nothing to worry about, it's probably probably due to the accuracy tolerances of your meter. Too much resistance would be a worry.


Some gauges are rated/guaranteed to be no more than 3% inaccurate.

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I decided to take a closer look at my eBay winnings Kie Hin carb.. Took the bowl off and up on first glance it was pretty clean, no white powder. Jets looked clean needle looked new. Diaphragm was in good shape, and then I spotted it. Someone probably dropped it while cleaning it, did a descent job repairing it so it may be OK, but I don't like it.





The jets all had the right numbers on them for that year Eiger, just wish I had some way to measure them, I will compare them with the ones in the kit.

This is kind of sad and annoying I actually had to take a photo of the jet and zoom it up to be able to read the numbers. Age is not kind to your eyes.




So I got bored with that and decided to take the seal holder off the case and prepare for the new seals, I always use an air hammer to get those bolts out I know they are in there tight, and corroded but this one wasn't having it, the ones from the old case came out OK but thats not doing me any good. Ill let them soak in PB Blaster overnight and try again tomorrow.

I know I post a lot of useless pictures and information for most of you, but I do it to help other people that might be working on similar projects, and having similar problems 





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It came right out this morning, that Air Hammer is a great tool for getting out stubborn screws and bolts, and fitted with the Eastwood attachment it  works well , the handle makes it nice, you can put some real torque on it with that.

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Not much going on with my project waiting on parts and as i was contemplating getting it back together, and finishing, it hit me, im going to have to do this all over again.

I have another Eiger it actually runs and drives, but when i got it the previous owner told me it didnt run very well, the guy that had it before him had drilled out the jets, aftermarket carb running too lean, i know why he did it , but he missed by a quite a bit, it was flooding so badly and gas was leaking everywhere, so i ordered another aftermarket carb for it, put it on and it ran better, not perfect but better, i wish i would have went ahead then and bought a OEM and rebuilt it, but live and learn, , i was blaming not top notch performance on the aftermarket carb, but it occured to me, that the magnets are probably loose just like this one was, and if they are not loose they will be. So i will go ahead and replace them while its fresh on my mind. I think the magnet issue was probably the downfall of this model. 

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Oh yeah I see the glue now.. Ha bad eyes Gw..bad eyes.

And don't you have enough to do already ? !!

I better speak to your wife about this compulsion of your's..  I've seen it before and it doesn't end well.

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Your right ,i like big boy toys, and if i thought for a second, that the one i posted for sale was really selling for 600 it would already be at my house, but it was perfect, not really what i look for, and its not about the money, restoring them is what i like to do, it keeps my ageing mind active, i have as much fun doing that as i do riding them. 

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