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Suzuki Eiger 400 2004 Rear Wheels Locked (Next Restoration Project)


Go to solution Solved by Gwbarm,

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Descent price and free shipping, I went ahead and ordered it, taking a closer look at the bushing it is pretty specific, it has little diamond shapes cut on the inside surface, for oil to pool and oil the shaft.

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I think it will have been a steel backed white metal bush.. Thin layer of white metal so it doesn't squeeze out under pressure. And yeah, the pattern would have held oil. Although it is fed oil under low pressure, it wasn't designed to float on a layer of high pressure oil like a main or big end is in a car. 

Every part in there is the result of more than a century of accumulated knowledge and refinement..  And the Japs are really good at that !

 

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Not having much luck yet at smoothing the end of the shaft back down, a file wasn't doing much, so I got a dremmell with a flat metal cutting disc, that was working fairly well but you end up hitting places with it you don't want to hit, I may end up getting a diamond bur, flat, and working it back down with that. The sliding piece that engages the dogs does hit the lip, but it's so close to the end of its run can't really tell if it will cause a problem.

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So it is hard then..  I'd probably use an oilstone..  but I'm a bit strange..  haha.

I doubt the sliding dog gets right to the end of the shaft. As long as you can get that dog on and off the splines it's probably good enough. It's not going to stick or fail to engage or anything.

I'd want the running surface for the bush to be nice though..

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And in that regard..  trust your fingers. Fingers can detect distortion and bumps in the range of fractions of a thou..  Your eye can't see a bump or distortion of five thou generally/often..

I've trained apprentices and the best lesson you can give them is to use all their senses. It helps hugely in their manual  work, and in diagnosing..

I have heaps of small stones..  I make swords..  haha..

They are slow, but they will do things that neither files nor grinding tools will/can do. A little kerosene and press hard and move slowly to grind, when you want to polish the surface, then light and faster.

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Been working on it all morning tried the oil stone first it really polishes and makes the metal look nice, I had about a 3mm raise on the shaft end and realized I didn't want to do this until 2093, so I had some polishing stones for my dremmel tool, worked good getting the lip off not as polished looking as the oil stone, but still won't come off the shaft, got to work on it a little more. I think there is still a raised area in the valley when I finish and can get it off the shaft smooth it out with the oil stone.

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Yeah a stone being flat will work like a plane and show up and grind the high spots.. while the dremel will go over/follow small discrepancies in a flat plane and eventually magnify them.

That cutoff saw you have will probably take a thin slice off your kitchen stone...  That's what I do. I've always had a small pocket knife stone, and a bigger block stone in my tool box and workshop. I run them over burrs, heads, anything damaged or that has to be flat.. 

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Still working it, I got the bulk of the stressed metal off with a diamond bur and finishing up with the oil stone, looking a lot better but still can't get the shift dogs off the shaft. There are raised areas at the outer edge of the trough which I think are stopping it from coming off. I found a stone that would just fit in the trough, just slow going, just going a little at a time, I will eventually get it. It will now go all the way to the end of the grooved area and im sure will work fine, but I want to keep at it until I can get the dogs off the shaft. waiting on parts anyway, I am getting some new OEM thrush washers and outer gear, so I will be positive they will be the right fit. If you noticed in the last phot, bottom right is the stone im using, it is actually a dental instrument sharpening stone small and good to get in the tight areas.

 

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If the kitchen stone is courser I'd use that cut off saw, which I presume has a diamond blade, to take a four mill slice off the end. Then you can press down real hard on the four mill edge. If you want to move a lot off metal with a stone you need to press hard, and move slowly..  It's a bit like getting a file to start biting in on cold or rusty steel..  Once you get it to start biting in, then it does it really well.. other wise they slide over the surface taking off not much..

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Still working it, I got the bulk of the stressed metal off with a diamond bur and finishing up with the oil stone, looking a lot better but still can't get the shift dogs off the shaft. There are raised areas at the outer edge of the trough which I think are stopping it from coming off. I found a stone that would just fit in the trough, just slow going, just going a little at a time, I will eventually get it. It will now go all the way to the end of the grooved area and im sure will work fine, but I want to keep at it until I can get the dogs off the shaft. waiting on parts anyway, I am getting some new OEM thrush washers and outer gear, so I will be positive they will be the right fit. If you noticed in the last phot, bottom right is the stone im using, it is actually a dental instrument sharpening stone small and good to get in the tight areas.

 

IMG_39583.thumb.jpeg.870315162938607694c4024fefc84c0b.jpeg

 

IMG_3959.thumb.jpeg.91ccfa0df0e0a3ccd4fff1689aa6b93d.jpeg

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Well finally got it off, im not real proud of it , I ground the end a little too much, I knew I went to far, I wasn't going to take it any farther,  it still wouldn't come off, I was beginning to think I had a bad cog in an area I couldn't see, so I took a pry bar behind the dogs and with very little effort it came off. There must have been one little metal tag keeping it from coming off, now just waiting on parts.IMG_3961.thumb.jpeg.76171fc5e1e21e5c9067ecbf12de0690.jpeg

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Im still trying to figure out what happened with the washer, even with the gear on backward it shouldn't have eat into the shaft if it was working correctly. Got the new gear in it was nicer than I thought from the photo on Ebay I thought it had some surface rust on the bushing, hoping it would clean up well when I got it, but no rust at all, what I thought was rust was brass on the bushing, which was completely gone on my old one, must have been some sort of plating. Trying to find some new washers that I can get quickly, found some just won't be here until the middle of July, I guess I can wait, still got a little polishing to do on the shaft.

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Ha..  Danged power tools..  That's why I don't like them.

The washer got mangled because it was squished between the gear jambed solid on the case, and the rotating gearbox shaft.. It was never designed for that. Neither the washers or the bush should have any load on them. When it's not being used the gear only rotates very slowly in relation to the gearbox shaft it's on, and once the gear gets engaged, it's locked to the shaft, so not wearing at all, and only has to resist the pressure of the two gears pushing apart as they turn under load.

Well done so far..  If you can get the parts at a good price, it looks like being a good buy..

 

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Every thing is looking good so far , just continuing cleaning things up a bit, got most of my parts ordered, I haven't ordered the rotor yet, still trying to decide, I do not want OEM if its still the one with external magnets, which it shows in the parts diagram, all of the aftermarket ones show internal magnets. Still looking around on Ebay for a descent case, found a couple but i haven't ordered one yet, not sure if I want to pay shipping for all the mud and rust corrosion and grease on them, plus they were expensive, but what did pop up while I was doing my search was an OEM carb, which I have been looking for at the right price. I needed one for this project and then I will have all OEM carbs back on all my bikes. It was listed for 15.00 I thought, but didn't look close enough , it was starting bid, I don't usually bid on stuff, to aggravating, but the seller had a small inventory and this was the only ATV part listed, I like buying from people like that, just trying to make a little extra by cleaning out the garage,so I put 40.00 on it, close to what I paid for the last one, not expecting to get it, most go for about 80.00+. Just forgot about it and ended up getting it for for 20.00. Curious to see how bad it is, I suspect it was just taken off and replaced and stuck back in the garage. Not much to look at but it is OEM. The only thing is she said it came off an Automatic mine is manual, I don't think that will make a difference, but it might be jetted slightly different, I will have to see.

 

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After I won the bid she messaged me and apologized how dirty it was and promised to clean it up before shipping. Nice gesture!

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Ebay is so much fun, im trying to figure out which flywheel to buy, I go to this one seller and he has ratings, I look at his rating and one rating is for the rmstator, another is for a different brand than he is selling and so on, so I figured this is not even truth fuii. So I go to another seller with ratings he has exactly to same ratings and comments that the other seller had, word for word, so one or the other just cut and pasted the rating that were bogus to start with to his page, that's why I only use eBay when nothing else works out.

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My grown sons tell me  that nobody buys off ebay any more , everyone uses facebook now...    Apparently there are for sale sites for different areas of the world and country.. 

I don't use either but they sure do.. 

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Things are going to smoothly, for one of my projects, so I have to stir the pot a little. I decided to go back and look at the cracked side cover again, I hadn't really looked it over closely since I got it off. It pretty bad, I can probably JB well it and make it work, but im not sure I want to do that. It is really clean 

 

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Looking on the inside the crack circles the bearing  area I can see that getting worse.

 

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Looking from the outside the crack is all the way through I can see light through it

 

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Plus the sealing surface was damaged a bit doesnt show up in the photo as bad as it really is.

 

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So back to eBay, I tried Facebook first, I can't really find the parts I need there, may different in NZ, any way I found one looked good and straight, with all the bearings and stator, the only difference I saw was the stator plugs were black on his and white on mine, so who has the aftermarket stator, who knows. He wanted 69.00 and free shipping, so not bad, it's fairly heavy probably 20.00 + to ship. Most all other ones I looked at were stripped, case only, and going for 40.00. You just can't get 5 or 10 dollar used parts anymore. Still haven't figured which rotor to get , heard some complaints about magnets not being strong enough in aftermarket units. I can see that , the originals are strong, the aftermarket ones are under another piece of metal to keep them from coming off, so it makes sense they would be weaker. I may go with RMstator from Canada I have heard they are good.

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I got my eBay purchased engine side cover today, it was not bad at all, actually very impressed, I have gotten some junky parts off eBay before for a steep price.

IMG_4026.thumb.jpeg.97d13656942038e58811d4eb9fde0ce5.jpeg

 

I still wanted to clean it up a bit, so maybe the new mud I go through won't stick to it so bad. Didn't want to get too crazy with it , but looks better. Cleaner works better, right!

 

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As I was inspecting everything I noticed that the stators were different. So I was trying to decide which was the aftermarket or maybe they are both aftermarket. Nothing screams aftermarket more than green, so I determined my original side case had an aftermarket stator, that's OK it actually works. So now I have a delimma do I go back on with the aftermarket that I know works, or take a chance that the OEM one will work, 

 

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The new one kind of had a number on it.

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The original that came out of it had no markings at all, and had thinner wire.

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Looking around at the old case and found a washer stuck to one of the magnets pulled up all the drawings and im not missing any washers, I had already ordered a new one. This one on the right goes on the main shaft that the gear was put on backwards, instead of the one on the left. I suspect someone lost a washer and just found one close to the right size, he only missed it by a little bit.

IMG_4043.thumb.jpeg.19a9ef33e77c3baef4565bdd3f4567cf.jpeg

 

 

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Ha..  Amazing huh. Sad thing is, I've known mechanics no better..

When I was getting trained I was told that we can adjust a bill with the stroke of a pen, but we can't adjust a bad reputation, and so take my time, make sure everything is right, and if there's ever any doubt about the assembly as it's going on, back track before it gets worse. I've seen mecahnics know things weren't right and be saying, "it's probably come right when it's all together..  Haha  yeah right.

Good work Gw.. check everything, double check it, then triple check it before proceeding. That's what we were told.

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Got everything back in place this afternoon , correct washers back in place, shift dogs sliding good on the shaft, change mechanism working good, ready for the new flywheel and oilseals to come in. Decided to pull the old flywheel off and clean that up a bit. Nut came off fairly easily with impact

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It takes a 50mm flywheel puller, it worked very well, the large piece screws onto the flywheel and there is smaller piece that screws onto the crank to protect the shaft then the bolt screws against the smaller piece.

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It came right off.

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Everything's looking good, waiting on new flywheel.

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