Well, is this ready for the junk yard?

[Gwbarm]

The Ebay bearings were caltric a semi reputal aftermarket supplier, looked cheap and finish was bad.

The second was pivot/works never heard of them but they looked like quality bearings they were more expensive, but i would go with those.

I use chiesels a lot but i have never had good luck splitting nuts with them,i always use something else, probably operator error

All Balls make good parts i would think there bearings would be good also.

[p5200]

I wanted to make sure I got a kit with o rings. I've got a seal driving kit it I can find it again lol! Only used it once for a front hub seal on the Scrambler. I started out to adjust valves and put a new pull rope/ housing on so I could adjust the valves. I guess it's a good thing I tried to tighten the chain and found the wobbly sprocket lol!

Edited March 1, 2024 by p5200

[Mech]

It's good idea to go right over a new bike checking everything and doing what ever's needed, and then hopefully getting a reliable service out of it. You'll get to the end of if eventually.

Seals can be tapped in with a hammer. The bearing cones will probably need an engineers punch. You could make do with a long bolt with the threads sawn off so it ends in a flat face.

[p5200]

I've got a Tekton brand punch set that I use working on firearms if one of those would work. I have a set of flat and a set of roll pin. I guess it would be one of the flat ones. I found my seal and cup driving kit also. What do you do with the punch tap the bearing in?

[Mech]

Yeah, start it with a hammer till it gets down flush and then use a thin punch that won't touch the edge of the cup where the bearing is going to touch. The bearing cup is hard but an engineer's punch is harder and can deform the edge of the cup. If you use a soft bolt to knock it down the last bit you won't harm the cup though.

[p5200]

Ok, I guess I'll be able to feel it when it bottoms out? Thanks! 🙂

[Gwbarm]

I also have the seal driver that i can never find when i need it, i usually get them started with a small hammer then get a flat piece of metal that covers the whole seal and tap the metal gently, i feel the metal pushes it down evenly, probably not necessary,

[p5200]

If I don't have the right size seal driver or it doesn't work good I'll see what kind of metal I can find. I need to get some more grease too. Thanks for the tips I need all I can get lol! 🙂

[Mech]

Yeah a big socket, the old cup of the bearing, flat metal, any thing that will get it down to the right level... As long as it goes in square, without getting tilted, it's fine. Same with the bearing cup, you have to make sure to tap it down a little at a time all the way around so it doesn't get at an angle. And they sound different once they get to the bottom of the hole. If the bearing's still moving down it sounds slightly dull, and when it gets bottomed out it rings sharply.

Edited March 1, 2024 by Mech

[Gwbarm]

You will also need to hammer the old bearing race out and the new one in for the new bearings.

[Mech]

There might be a bit of the old bearing cup showing that you can use a punch against to knock it out, or there will be some cut-aways in the aluminium cup seat. It's important to work right the way around the cup as you knock it out. If the cup gets cocked over as it's coming out or going in it will jamb, and if you keep hitting it then it will chew out and distort the bore it's in. It's very important they get hit out and in nice and squarely. If it jambs stop and check which side needs to be tapped to get it straight again, and if need be, tap it back the other way to straighten it up before proceeding..

[p5200]

Thanks for the good tips fellas. The main photo just shows the bearings and seals. The small photos to the left shows the races so I'm assuming, I will get those too. I got the sprocket off had to wire axle and sprocket to a post to hold it still. I got lucky and had a couple metal blades for my Super Sawzall. I didn't think that thing would cut that good on bolts like that. Parts won't be here until next week. I guess I might as well put the Stator housing on and adjust the valves. I'll put the new spark plug in after that. 

[Gwbarm]

Good work getting those out, sawzall is good, you can usually find something that will work around the house without having to buy something for a 1 time use. i have so many of those one time use items that i can never find when i need them again. I am like a tool junkie, cant stand not to have the right tool when working on something.

[p5200]

I've got a lot of 1 use tools. My wife reminds me about that every time I want to buy another.🤣 I started to try piling some of my 45 pound weight plates on the axle to hold it still. That's from my younger weight lifting days.

[p5200]

Wow! I think I should have bought my bearing kit on ebay. the photo shows the bearing races and also I guess that's a tube of bearing grease. https://www.ebay.com/itm/142954344378

[Gwbarm]

The races seals and O rings are in the Amazon kit, minus the bearing grease, grease is cheap, i prefer Amazon over Ebay for easy returns, if wrong or doesnt fit right and fast shipping.

[p5200]

Good deal, now I can go ahead and remove the races and have that much done.  I didn't want to knock them out without having new ones to put back in. The kit is suppose to be here Tuesday. I think the sprocket hub is suppose to be here around the middle of the week also. Thanks for the confirmation! 👍

[puskinelis]

On 3/2/2024 at 3:21 AM, p5200 said:

Good deal, now I can go ahead and remove the races and have that much done.  I didn't want to knock them out without having new ones to put back in. The kit is suppose to be here Tuesday. I think the sprocket hub is suppose to be here around the middle of the week also. Thanks for the confirmation! 👍

Just my 2 cents,I fully rebuild my 450 foreman. Also rebuilding yamaha grizzly 350 and had 2x others hand all theese need smaller rebuild, but 80 % of repair is needed on older quads are chassis. And I bought various brand parts, and guaranteed to fit and be reliable are Prox, Winderosa, EPI parts, all balls are sh** except cv axle boots. I buy OEM only if I can find them or they are the same price or slightly differs from NON-OEM. Good luck !

[Gwbarm]

I have only used all balls carb kits, so far working well, most carb kits are so cheap i cant imagine them being high quality and heard good things about the all balls kit.