Quantcast
Jump to content


1987 Yamaha Big Bear Electrical Troubleshoot


ResQ91

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

My 87 Bear 350 won't start and could use a hand.

Turn key on and Oil light turns on and then slowly fades out. (I think this is key to this) No start, not even a tick.

battery and connections good

A Solenoid post jump turns it over

Neutral Safety Switch wire attached and seems good

It has not had a wire/switch on Rear Brake Pedal ever since I had it.

Any thoughts on some other things to troubleshoot this??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Ajmboy changed the title to 1987 Yamaha Big Bear Electrical Troubleshoot

If you jump the starter and it cranks, the batttery is probably good or ok to turn over. At that point, you may want to check wiring, starting at the ignition switch. My bet is you have a wiring issue or a bad or misaligned neutral safety switch. Is there a neutral light that comes on? Try holding the brake levers down when starting. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the fading light sounds like a dud battery but if bridging the solenoid cranks the bike over then it must not be the case.. In that case it's probably a bad connection somewhere. You could try turning the headlight on to see if that fades as well. Not sure what that would tell us at the moment without looking in the book but it would be a simple check of the battery.

I think I'd check the ignition switch as my first check.

The recommended thing to do is what's known as a "voltage drop check". In the case of the switch you put a volt gauge across the power wires on the key switch and with the key off it should show 12v, then turn the key on and the voltage should drop to zero as the power goes through the switch instead of the gauge. If it keeps showing a voltage with the key on then there's a bad contact in the switch. Some models have the 12v going through the cdi and then the  kill switch on the way to the start button so you should do the voltage drop test across those two parts as well.

Switches are a suspect here.. If not a switch, then a bad contact where a terminal connects to a switch or component, or where a wire crimps into the metal terminal on it's end.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I just started tearing into wiring connections and found two w/high resistance.

 

Thought I had it.......

 

Got that squared away and find it was more than one thing.

 

What would cause difficulty getting to Neutral with shifter. (Won't start unless in neutral) Seems like if I rock machine back and forth it gets there.

 

TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Difficulty getting them out of gear if they were in gear when you switched off is quite common, and rocking the bike is the usual procedure.

Most bikes will start in gear if you have the brakes on well enough to make the brake light go. It doesn't actually need the brake light, it just needs the brake light circuit to be energised to bypass the neutral safety feature.

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By Mhatayas
      What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker 

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
×
×
  • Create New...