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Similar Forum Topics
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By mikeexplorer
I took this video back in 2007. Recently the trail (old railroad grade) I was riding was converted into a walking trail (obviously no more ATV riding on it) 👎 I dug up this old video and put it together since it shows the entire section and what it used to look like. The quality of the video is lacking, but this was from 18 years ago. Image stabilization didn't exist back then so I wore the camera on my helmet. (mounted to the quad was useless with all the shaking) so there is some annoying frames of me looking around. I noted any historical items from the railroad in the video. There is a section where the railroad grade is wiped out due to erosion so I had to jump off it and ride an abandoned road for a section to get around it.
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By 86096
I have a 1985 Suzuki LT230 GE quadrunner. It has been stored in a shed for at least the last 15 years and has very low mileage. Although the tires look and feel great... should I consider changing them since they are 38 years old? I don't intend to ride to far or too fast but I don't want to have to walk out of the bush. Any input would be welcome.
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By Jd101506
Hi all!
I've got a 1988 LT4WD that I am working on. It sat for almost two decades in a shed, so I replaced both the carb and the fuel pump (Pump was rusty, carb was ok, but had a pin hole in the bowl itself?). Now, I went el cheapo and I replaced BOTH with Chinese aftermarket Carb and Fuel pump. Now is where it gets confusing:
So I did this SAME thing on my other Quad, a 1988 LT300E. They take the same PN carb, and a similar fuel pump, (One has a 90 degree bend in the vacuum port). I've been battling the four wheeler a bit with some electrical issues, but I noticed that at idle it runs GREAT when I gravity feed fuel from a burp can into the fuel bowl of the carb... But as soon as I put it on the fuel pump from the tank, it idles EXTREMELY low and smokes a little. To me, this indicated that the carb itself was running rich. I adjusted it a little on the LT300e, but I could never seem to get it right, it still will slowly die at idle when warm, but ironically if I CHOKE the motor, it'll start up and run. I dont know if this is because the RPM increases? But the quad will run around the yard great at RPM and then die at idle.
Now, the LT4WD. I ended up with a faulty fuel pump for my second (I think the spring isn't seated inside as I can hear one rattling around) so when I installed it it WOULD NOT pump fuel. So I ended up swapping the LT300 pump onto the LT4WD. Boom, pumps fuel. I put it all back together and got my tires on. I ran it around my yard and it exhibits the SAME symptoms as the LT300e! It will run around at RPM, but it will not stay running at idle, it drops realllllly low RPM and will start smoking a little as if its running rich. Again, when I ran it with the fuel pump OFF I didn't have this issue.
In my head I'm thinking it would be a mixture screw OR float issue... But the mixture screw doesn't seem to help me on either, and the bowls are not over flowing (I checked both overflow lines). Is there something I'm missing here thats obvious? Is there a vacuum line or something I missed? Maybe some configuration or something I missed? I reviewed the manual and nothing stood out to me.
Conclusion: Two different Suzuki fourwheelers, two different carbs (Both are chinese Ebay carbs) that BOTH run well when I mainline fuel from a drip can INTO the bowls, BOTH do not keep idle and seem to run extremely rich as they run great at RPM but slowly die at idle. Adjustment screws, idle screws be damned.
I ended up ordering a new Suzuki OEM fuel pump for ~90$ just to have it and see if it makes a difference. Any advice here though would be SUPER appreciated!
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By 8AV8
I just purchased a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI. While riding today I noticed the throttle lever
was getting hot, not just warm but too hot to touch. I’ve never encountered a problem like this before.
I have a service annual ordered but it won’t be here for a few days.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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