Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Здравствуйте, нужна помощь по ремонту багги Arctic Cat 700 EFI, пропала искра, датчик коленвала импульс есть, Самодиагностика показывает две ошибки AC99,AC96. все провода проверил на целостность, все датчики блоком определяются, не включается топливный насос. Провода от ECU до реле насоса и от реле до насоса исправны. Поставил подменный ECU, ничего не изменилось.   image.thumb.png.d81bf05f5996012bad6a80dc02d42b79.pngimage.thumb.png.3f2d71d126b695532969afad12141fe4.pngimage.thumb.png.4a0b7c4df26f5cc2273d69d3261a6360.png

image.png

Posted

Может кто подскажет чем и, как прочитать данный ECU? Родной ECU ошибок не выдаёт, донор выдаёт ошибки и видит все датчики. Хотел бы вычитать об блока и посмотреть, что за софт. 

Posted

Может у кого есть полная электросхема от такого аппарата с таким ECU?

Posted

Дружище! Воспользуйся Google Translate и переведи свой пост на английский перед отправкой, если хочешь, чтобы кто-нибудь ответил на твою тему.

Mate! use google translate and change your post to English before submitting , that if you want someone to reply to your thread.

Did you check/test fuel pump? If you apply power to direct from battery does the fuel pump work? Also check your fuses!

Google AI says code AC96 = system voltage being too high (overvoltage) or a malfunctioning voltage regulator.

Fault AC99 = Start/Run Not Possible, most likely related to the AC96 code.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hello, I need help repairing my Arctic Cat 700 EFI buggy. The spark is missing, but the crankshaft sensor is sending a signal. The self-diagnosis shows two errors: AC99 and AC96. I have checked all the wires for continuity, and the sensors are recognized by the ECU. However, the fuel pump is not turning on. The wires from the ECU to the pump relay and from the relay to the pump are in good condition.

Can someone tell me how to read data from this ECU? The original ECU does not produce errors, but the donor ECU produces errors and sees all the sensors. I would like to read data from the ECU and see what kind of program it is.

Does anyone have a complete electrical diagram of such a device with this ECU?

Posted
6 hours ago, vr32 said:

Дружище! Воспользуйся Google Translate и переведи свой пост на английский перед отправкой, если хочешь, чтобы кто-нибудь ответил на твой вопрос.

Чувак! воспользуйся Google Translate и переведи свой пост на английский перед отправкой, если хочешь, чтобы кто-нибудь ответил на твой вопрос.

Вы проверяли топливный насос? Если подать питание напрямую от аккумулятора, работает ли топливный насос? Также проверьте предохранители!

По данным Google AI, код AC96 = слишком высокое напряжение в системе (перенапряжение) или неисправность регулятора напряжения.

Неисправность AC99 = Sтарт/запуск невозможен, скорее всего, связано с кодом AC96.

 

Thank you, the fuel pump is working directly, and all the electrical wiring has been tested under load using a 55-watt light bulb. The fuses are all intact, the battery is charged, and the starter turns smoothly.

  • Like 1
Posted

You can find the schematic of your machine with this link. It is the 4th file (listed as large file)

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2000_thru_2009_atv_and_snowmobileSnow_Wiring_Diagrams__NOTE_LARGE_FILE_459mb.pdf

 

There is no schematic of the ECU itself, it is a sealed unit and not serviceable. Since you tried a donor ECU and have different results that makes me suspect your ECU. You probably have a second problem and I would suspect a problem in the wiring harness. Arctic Cats of that era were known for the wires to rub and break. You may need to remove the plastics and inspect the harness from the ECU leading out to the sensors. 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By randyoct
      Will the top end of a 400 fit a 366 the price is so much cheaper
       
    • By spigmef
      I bought a 2008 arctic at 366 with 120hrs. When i red line it in neutral is smokes blue a lot. When I put it in high range it has problems getting over 35km/h. I bought it and had to clean the carb. It ran ok after i cleaned it. Not I have this problem. 
    • By ath1981
      Got a 2011 425 EFI. It eat 2 belts, so I replaced the drive clutch assy, rollers, spacer and movable face. Put on a new belt and after 30 min of riding, it eat another belt. any clue what can be causing this?
    • By Admin
      Looking for Arctic Cat ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Arctic Cat ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Arctic Cat ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Arctic Cat ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply. 
      The following Arctic Cat ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
      CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
       
    • By DonB
      Had fire start in muffler due to failing fuel pump &/or fuel pressure regulator.  Must I spend the $750+ for a new assembly from Arctic Cat?!?  Here's what I've tried so far.
      Replaced fuel pump & regulator - both from Quantum. PSI is 60 rather than the 42 the dealer advises it should be, so problem persists.  I've now twice replaced the Quantum regulator & discussed w/ Quantum. They advise that they don't have an alternative regulator that would bring PSI down to 42. I've tried several in-line, adjustable pressure regulators but they either didn't work or I couldn't get a constant pressure from them. FYI, I've only tried the adjustable regulators for Fuel Injected engines however, it seems that they require vacuum to function properly.  When I can temporarily get the PSI right, everything works great.  Anyone else ever dealt with this problem, and, if so how did you fix it?  Perhaps I should adapt the fuel system to include a gas tank return line?
      Any insights are greatly appreciated, Don
×
×
  • Create New...