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This Listing is on Ebay as of Jan. 2 ,2023& I am looking to buy ...Does anybody know - what year Range this ECM will fit ??
Hello everyone, this is my first post to the forum. I have a Honda Fourtrax that will not start when you push the start button. no kick start. However it will start if you jump across the two posts on the sylenoid. thus far i only sprayed wd40 into the start and kill switches. any suggestions?
Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago. This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine. I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections. Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level. One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
Here are some things I don't like:
The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it. It is essentially a solid axle. Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement. In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover. This according to the manual. I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
I am not used to a CVT transmission. I am used to a clutch and multiple gears. This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up. I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them. I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close. Problem solved. I will leave the passenger door as is. Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
Here is some stuff I like:
I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill. There is. I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff. This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces. I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate. Much like early Japan pickups.
Steering is responsive and little slack. Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
Seats are pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in. Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled. Yeah, it works to buckle them empty. Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it.
Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV. This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well. Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well. The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well. The guys at Lowes were impressed. They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
Fuel Injected, 2015 AC XR550XT ATV (renamed the Alterra from 2016 on). 1300 miles.
I had written an earlier post concerning part of the problem, but a new one has arisen...
Engine sputters & fails when throttle applied (even from idle and while in Neutral), and, now... Fuel pressure reads @ "0" despite clear line and operational fuel pump. Unit originally suffered fire in muffler - presumably due to engine driveability problem & resulting unburnt fuel... fuel pump ultimately died when starting repairs. Installed a new fuel pump as dealer advised it was the problem. Have now been chasing a proper fix for several months, as, while it generally starts fine, the engine will not take any sort of throttle - even from idle. Instead, it immediately starts to miss, backfire & die. From the beginning, the dealer claimed that a new genuine AC fuel pump was all that was needed. However, the replacement, non-AC fuel pump runs at 42 psi & works fine). NEW ISSUE: Unexpectedly, the first replacement pump stopped registering any fuel pressure (per in-line pressure gauge). This despite confirming both: (a) pump clearly pumping & (b) fuel line - all the way to the fuel injector - clear & delivering fuel. Tried a 2nd replacement pump which, initially, registered pressure (engine performance issues remained). But, when I tried to start it today, no fuel pressure again (and, therefore, apparently no fuel to injector). Again confirmed pump working and fuel line to injector clear & delivering fuel. Engine continues to start easily with starter fluid but, of course, stalls once fluid has burned off. While cleaning/replacing the fuel injector seems the next logical step, it strikes me that, were the injector plugged, I should still be seeing a psi reading on the installed, in-line gauge I've been using (not zero)!
Any ideas before I surrender this to the dealer and a B-I-G bill?
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