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By mywifeknowseverythin
For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.
I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
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By dhallftworth
Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going.
I am having the following problem:
The engine is backfiring through the carb.
I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running:
Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
Tested the kill switch and it tested good
New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
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By Bobbywolf
I am working on a basket case for a friend. It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB). It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
Anyway, first thing is first. I checked compression, 150psi. Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time. I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages. It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
The bike runs. It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration. Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean. White strap, with no black whatsoever. So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot. It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air). It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on. The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there. I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
Anything big I am missing here? I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue. This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.
Thanks for any assistance.
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By p5200
Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
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By huntindog
I am in the process of puting it back together after replacing the DPS gearbox.
The manual I have states that it will need to be flashed by a dealer. Is this still true?
Also , I have a mystery bolt That I cannot remember where it goes. M6x 70 or so. Hex head with a flat washer.I will try to attach a pic.
Pic is no go for now....Cox issue I will try again later
TIA
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