Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

jblindy10

Ranger 700Xp is too hot to drive. Any suggestions? Help!

Recommended Posts

This is my first UTV, and it is getting too hot to drive. It is a Polaris Ranger 700XP and doesn't take long before it gets hot. I wore sandals while driving it the other day and my foot was extremely hot and uncomfortable. Feels like the motor isn't getting cooled off. Any suggestions... I need help so I can enjoy my toy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


This is my first UTV, and it is getting too hot to drive. It is a Polaris Ranger 700XP and doesn't take long before it gets hot. I wore sandals while driving it the other day and my foot was extremely hot and uncomfortable. Feels like the motor isn't getting cooled off. Any suggestions... I need help so I can enjoy my toy.

That's a liquid cooled motor. Is there a temperature gauge or light on that? Liquid cooled motors usually run a thermostat. Is this machine new? What year? Under warranty?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a thermostat to me.

Here is the way to test it. Remove it from your quad and drop it in a pan of boiling water. It should open instantly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a 2009 Polaris Ranger 700 XP, and still under warranty. It is has around 56 hours on it. It has always put out a lot of heat. It feels like the fan kicks in and blows all the heat on your feet. I have not got to enjoy this machine, because it this. One relply said to put the thermostat in boiling water to open it up, I hope that will help. Thanks for your input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Have you driven it in dusty, muddy or deep water (deep as the tires are high)? Try putting a small throw rug where your feet go see if that helps.Heat rises floor board catches all the heat. In there quest to make the engine quieter, they made an engine compartment that hold more heat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have you driven it in dusty, muddy or deep water

Muddy and deep water I have seen, but never dusty:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Muddy and deep water I have seen, but never dusty:laugh::laugh::laugh:
How about crusty???:fart::smilielol5c::roflc:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Christian Brindle
      I have a 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500. A year or so ago we got it running after replacing the kill switch. It ran great but after some use for a couple months it got a flat tire and for some reason we just forgot about it and it sat for some time. Before it sat i replaced the gas cap, fuel filter, fuel pump, petcock, battery, starter relay, oil and oil filter. I recently went to start it and it started so quickly and without choke or throttle but the ATV wouldn't move till about 1/4 throttle and it wasn't really a smooth ride until 1/2 throttle. it also would bog out randomly after you came to a stop and sounded like it was getting too much fuel. I cleaned the carb and adjusted the air/fuel screw to 1 3/4 turns out.  I also messed with the idle and the throttle cable adjuster up on the handlebars. It's safe to say it now runs worse than when i started working on it 2 days ago. It takes more effort to get started and bogs out idling after about 30 seconds. I tried adjusting the idle but every time i do it'll get to a sweet spot but after driving it down the driveway and back the idle will go up and down to the point where i can't put it in gear because the gears will grind. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
    • By JacobSlabach
      Got a 04 Sportsman 500 that wasnt running- owner said it needed a stater and a new battery.  It ran rough (been sitting out in the weather for a while).  A friend and I started by adding a new battery and it would start barely with the choke and his hand over the air-filter.  I decided to install the new battery in the holder on the side.  we had it on the rack because the old on was still in the bike.  I tried to be nifty by turning the battery to put the terminals in an easier spot to get to, but forgot to reverse the cables too.  In a sentence, I reversed the positive and negative on the battery like a dummy.  When we discovered my mistake and corrected it, we turned on the bike, but the display did not light up and the key did not turn on the starter.  jumping the solenoid worked the starter, so we thought the solenoid just burned up when I reversed the pos and neg...  new solenoid and no difference.  what have I burned up?  Also, the shifter does not seem to do anything in the trans.  it slides back and forth like its stripped in the trans.  any help would be appreciated!!
      I think the biggest issue right now is the electrical.
    • By joninak
      I'm working on a 2018 Sportsman 570 and found in the service manual that there are two different torque methods for the head bolts depending on whether the bolts are silver or black. Well, silver bolts came out of my engine and I'm going to be replacing them with new bolts, however the parts fiche doesn't specify bolt color or that there is even an option!?! 
      Has anyone on here been through this before and can offer insight??
       
      TIA
       
    • By flyinbrian365
      View File 2005-06 Polaris Sportsman 400 450 500 Service Manual
      2005-06 Polaris Sportsman 400 450 500 Service Manual.
      Full ATV service manual
      Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 02/18/2019 Category Polaris ATV  
    • By PolarisRich
      I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
      My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
      I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
      Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
      [ATTACH]1021[/ATTACH]
      then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
      [ATTACH]1022[/ATTACH]
      Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
      The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
      timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
      The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
      Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
      the flywheel into the center of the hole.
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
      [ATTACH]1024[/ATTACH]
      [ATTACH]1025[/ATTACH]
      To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
      The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
      I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
      I hope this helps!
      Thanks Rich





  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By bodatiouskid
      Just bought a 2003 Kodiak 450.At take off,the belt doesnt grab for a few seconds.Is there any wat to tighten belt?& how tight should it be?
    • By oldcomet
      Morning Folks
      Ok so I have taken the front hubs apart everything is good and working fluids changed and full In 2 wheel drive the bike works great However in 4 wheel drive high I get a grinding clunking noise right near the foot pegs The universals are all brand new in the complete bike The problem just started after my last ride Sometimes I have to change the rpm to get the bike to go into gear in forward and reverse The bike doesn't make the grinding noise when I have the bike in 4 wheel driver low gear only in high gear Could the shifter need adjusting any help would be great Thanks for your time
      Oldcomet
    • By Beckbrenden
      My 2005 Kawasaki Prarie 700 is not functioning as it should, has no speed, no power and backfires when slowing down, I've cleaned the carb...completely, cleaned the fuel filter, it has new spark plugs, it won't idle also and has recently become hard to start, I adjusted the idle but still no results, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    • By toonces
      New to ATVing here and just got a '11 Grizz with the belt drive transmission and I've been suggested to take along an extra CVT belt along in remote rides just in case. I'm somewhat knowledgeable about where to get quality parts for cars but not so much for ATVs. Who makes the best CVT belt for my bike? Also, who makes just ok belts and who should I stay away from?
      Also, I'm looking at getting a snatch block for a synthetic rope winch and wondered if the type rope determines what type of block you should get...or are all snatch blocks the same and I'm just thinking about this one too much?
      Thanks
    • By Tivy
      My boot on the drive shaft came off this weekend. When I tried to put it back on it appeared to be about 2" too large. Any explanations????
      Also when the boot cam off, there was oil in the boot. Is this normal???
      Thanks for your help.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×