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drtranny

2008 Kingquad 450axi Problems?

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I'm having a few problems with my 450, I must start by saying even after all of the grief that I feel that I have suffered through, I still love this machine. OK, Problem one: It feels as tho it idles a little rough, perhaps even comparable to the vibration of a space shuttle cockpit launching. After slight throttle, and I mean slight its fine again. Not really a problem as far as drive ability is concerned, but still a concern of mine. Second problem and the one that bugs me the most. My diff lock / 4wd will absolutely not disengage, getting kind of worried due to the fact I still have 40 or so months left to pay for this "cash vampire". Dealer denied my warranty when I took it in for its first service because there was mud on the bike. Did not know that would deny my warranty but, whatever, ATV warranties are fishy anyway. Kind of skeptical rather or not to take my machine to a Dealer, but with the way things are today with mom and pop shops kind of sticking it to customers to cover there own payroll I don't know where to turn. No offense to the good shops (you know who you are). I have read some forums on this problem, but I feel this problem is a little to screwed up at this early mileage, by the way specs on bike ( 08, 450axi, 760 miles, 109 hours ) please give me some input or thoughts on these problems.

Thank you, and sorry for such a long story.

P.S. Sometimes when I stop, the moment I give throttle it makes a chirp noise like a tire skid, and jerks. Maybe the belt?

Edited by drtranny
Not complete

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is it efi? if not the rough running at idle could be caused from ur rpms being set to high...as for the 4wd and the diff not disengaging, um have you stopped when switching from 2wd to 4wd and then to diff lock??...or have u been engaging it while moving?

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Wow, after disassembling what seems like the entire 4wd elec system, my friend Tommy has figured the problem out. First you must remove the 4WD/Difflock selector switch off of the right side handle bar, then remove 3 screws on the inside over the circuit board. Once removed you must actually take out the device from inside the casing. Now this is where you must follow exact instructions, you will notice the lead wires on the bottom side of the circuit board, link blk/wht circuit against the one diagonally to it in order to put the DVC in motion, if done correctly you will notice the sound of the relay throwing, and the DVC removing the difflock, do not feel scared if the DIFF LOCK light blinks after initial contact, turn off ignition and turn back on, Problem Solved.

Feel free to contact via email for youtube video instructions. Coming soon.

[email protected]

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As far as your rough idle goes, I would start by checking easy basic stuff it you haven't already, like the spark plug, and air cleaner. I'm sure there is a throttle position sensor of some kind, that could be an issue. If there is any type of adjustment on the throttle cable that could help, you may just need to open the throttle body a tiny bit more to get enough air flow for it to idle smoother. The other problem you are having could also be the cause of the rough idle too, it sounds kind of like the clutch or belt drive system is sticking. If it is engaging too early, that could cause extra strain on the motor when it is trying to idle. Also, if it is hanging up and not engaging as soon as it should, you will get the noise and lurch like you are describing. You may have some debris of some kind inhibiting proper operation of your clutch or belt drive. The diff lock problem could be some kind of switch or wiring problem as best I can tell the same actuator operates the 4wd shift fork and the diff lock shift fork, so if it shifts into 4wd, then the actuator is oprational, it may not be getting the signal to shift the diff lock into position. It is also possible that the diff lock mechanism itself is damaged or otherwise operating improperly. Could be something sticking or broken. I would start by troubleshooting the circuit that runs the actuator and if everything works ok, I would then perform a visual inspection of the front differential and the shift components for the diff lock. If you can find a manual, I would absolutely get one, sounds like you will need it.

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You know, i need to find out if there is some time of TPS and its location. Seriously this bike has more electronics on it than my new car.

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Once again, if you can find a manual, it will be a huge help when trying to locate components and troubleshoot problems.

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the tps is connected to the throttle body. you can check trouble codes by sticking a paper clip in the diagnostic port some where under the seat near the battery if im not mistaken it will have a rubber cap on it to prevent mud and dirt from getting in it. i will have to get back to you on which two contacts you put paper clip in. it will show the position of the tps and tell you code looking something like this -C00 that would mean no codes and the dash next to the "c" stands for the position of the tps. it should be in that position as you see it in the center when the throttle is not being applied.

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I have had a problem for some time now with the same model, the problem is the atv dies out as the throttle is pressed and it will not run for very long. sometimes it is worse. the fuel pump was dirty so it was replaced and a screen was added. it ran good for a little while, but then it has the same problem again. the jet seems to be supplying sufficient fuel, and when accelerating and starving the intake then allowing more air to enter, it runs better and can actually reach operating RPM. Has anyone else had a similar problem or solution?

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