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Doing this for the first time on the old 2011 Grizz 700 and have a few q's?
I've found valve clearance specs as such...
Intake 0.09–0.13 mm (0.0035–0.0051 in)
Exhaust 0.16–0.20 mm (0.0063–0.0079 in)
If anyone can confirm that'd be great. I've been told to adjust the valve clearances to the top of the range in anticipation that they will tighten over time. This sound about right?
Are these the only two o-rings I'll need to replace? Both #18s in the schematic...
Yamaha ATV Parts 2011 GRIZZLY 700EPS 4WD HUNTER - YFM7FGPHA CYLINDER HEAD Diagram
And finally, which of those two valve covers are the intake and exhaust?
Also, was wondering about replacing my two gear box oil drain plugs and engine oil plug with the magnetic Gold Plugs. But at a price of $60 I'm wondering if they're actually worth it. Do people regularly find metal bits attached to these plugs?
A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:aargh:
I have searched all over and can't find anything on how to adjust the valves on my sons 2007 Polaris sportsman 90. Has anyone done this? Anyone have a manual for the 90 showing how to do it? I need to get this done pretty quick, since he has a ride coming very soon. Thanks.
:aargh:I need a little help figuring out a vavle tightening problem im having with the bike. I adjust the valves with a feeler gauge, start the bike and ride for about 10 minutes then its starts to run really rough, check the valves and their now too tight, so i adjust them again run the bike for about 5 minutes and the bike starts to bearly drives now, check the valves and their too tight again...Now this happens to both intake and exhaust at the same time and approx the same amount of change. Also sometimes i go to start the bike after it starts to run rough (adjusting the valves back out because now thier to tight) after a couple pulls and it doesnt start i go to check the vavles again and they are wayy too loose, causing the bike to not start..Some how the valve timing/gap keeps changing..Could this be a cam or timing chain problem??They both looked good after visual inspection.Cant figure it out and need some help, any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.