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By dlgg7
I've had this for probably 15 years. It ran great till 4-5 years ago, mainly riding the grandkids around our fields, till it wouldn't start. It sat for a couple of years till I bought a new battery, but couldn't get it to even hit, so rebuilt the carb, put on a new fuel pump, but no go, so it's sat. Several days ago, charged battery, cranked over and it started??? OK, idles good, but won't rev up, so emptied gas tank, flushed out and filled w/good 93 octane, pulled pump line from carb and have good full line of fuel cranking over. New spark plug, good spark, old one black BAD! Oil change, adjusted valves, no difference. Pulled carb and took apart and cleaned, didn't find any clogs or crusted up inside. Now I've had the carb back off probably 6 times checking, double checking anything I can think of. No gas blowing back in air box. It idles good, can increase throttle up some then starts popping and dropping rpms off and if I don't let off the throttle, it'll die. I've read for 3 days now MECHs and RANDY walking several thru tracing the same problem, tried MOST of the direction given. ??? -
By Hagbard
Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.
As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E
After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.
Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.
Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods
Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.
He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.
Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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By gohndd
Hey guys, I have a 1999 king quad. The right front brake locks up when I squeeze the lever. I can loosen bleed screw, fluid will come out and it unlocks. I'm thinking maybe wheel cylinder. Any suggestions?
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By DarkRider
Hey everybody,
Just curious on some opinions on my recent buy. I'm a big fan of the drivetrain and transmission in the Suzuki King Quad 300 and QuadRunner 250 4wd models. I've been wanting one of either model for quite some time, and recently picked up a really nice shape one for 1500. I just wanted to get some opinions on whether you'd be more hesitant to get something this old, if there are newer options that are comparable.
Also just keep in mind this is coming from someone not super mechanical.
Key factors:
Engine doesn't appear to have any leaks Had to replace the battery for $100, no biggie Front left CV boot is torn (not yet sure if the axle has damage) Starts right up with the tap of the button every time (so far) Idle was a bit low and was shutting off when warm. Adjusted the idle. Now it will only shut off occasionally on a hill if I'm not rolling or giving it gas. Has a Harbor Freight Badland winch with a wireless remote (brand new, tested and working) Has brand new shocks and brakes Shifting gears and changing between 2wd/4wd/diff lock/high/low/super low all seem fine. Rides pretty good, tight steering, takes the bumps pretty good as I have pretty rough trails. Brand new tires Over 2000 miles, that's quite a bit, but it seems well cared for. Plastics are almost all there. It's really only missing a small bit of the black mud flap in the rear. Has minimal stitching in the front, and it's got the usual scuffs. All of the lights work just fine (Neutral, Reverse, high and low beams) Tested the charging system and that works
And I think that's just about all I can think of at the moment. It mostly seems to be complete and all there. I was a little hesitant about getting something that old, as parts are always a concern. Looks like most parts are available, but axles seem to be hard to get if you want something brand new. I really wanted a 2000's model but I couldn't pass up the price.
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By mmabry55
My front wheels are constantly locked making steering extremely hard. I took the diff apart and it looks like it won't allow the front wheels to turn independently. Is this the norm? I have 27" paddles and it's almost impossible to steer while driving slow.
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