Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

01 bombardier ds 650 oil change question

Recommended Posts

Whats goin on guys I just recently got a 01 bombardier ds 650. First bombardier I've had. I just have a question about the oil. I know it has a dry sump system and you have to drain the oil can then the oil from the motor. after everything is drained and new oil filter is in, how much oil goes in the can and how much goes in the motor itself? I know the entire thing takes about 3.17 qts of oil. Also in the service manual it says not to run synthetic oil but I have used synthetic in my kfx450r that i had before. Have any of you guys used synthetic in your ds's? Let me know ASAP because my bike needs an oil change.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know about the filling it but I was reading you have to bleed the air out of the oil line. It says most people back the plug out until air can pass through it (not completely out) and turn the motor over until a steady stream pours out. Tighten it back and install the filter and do a final oil level check.

I did find this on another site:

In regards to chainging the oil it is more involved than just draining the oil tank under the headlight. Here are the steps you will want to take.

1) Find the hose that runs from the oil tank to the motor. Its on the left side as you sit on the quad. Have an oil pan handy and a big roll of paper towels (your going to need themhttp://forums.atvconnection.com/images/smilies/smile.gif) Loosen the hose at the motor and quickly place it over an oil pan and let drain. This will drain the oil tank.

2) The same hose you removed at the motor you want to remove underneath the oil tank. THere is a mesh oil screen in there that should be checked from time to time. Since you have no way of knowing whether the prior owner cleaned the screen I highly recommend checking it.

2) Remove the oil plug underneath the motor. Let drain into oil pan.

3) Remove oil filter. THis is where you are going to need a lot of paper towels.

4) Your almost there... Put in a new oil filter, replace the drain plug on the bottom and tighten the oil line between the tank and the motor back up.

5) Place ~3qt of oil into oil tank and start her up and let it run for a few minutes. Make sure the red light on the dash goes out within a few seconds of startup or else shut it down. Let sit and check oil level. My DS took about 3.3qt everytime I changed the oil. Use a good 10-40wt conventional or "motorcycle" synthetic that is safe for wet clutches. If you use an automotive synethic you clutch will end up slipping.

I think if you prime/bleed the air like it says after do do the change you should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 7 months later...

hey i own the same bike as you and actually its the same color. I only changed the oil in my bike twice, and I never used synthetic oil. I only used the regular pennzoil 10w-40 motor oil, even though the racing type is recommended. my bike runs great so if i were u, dont use the synthetic oil.

kind regards,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Hagbard
      Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.

      As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E

      After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.

      Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.

      Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods

      Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.

      He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.

      Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.

    • By FalloutBoy
      I can't find a diagram for my Can-Am, all the diagrams have different color coded wires and are missing the necessary parts to fully re-wire my Can-Am.     Any help would be appreciated 
    • By Admin
      View File 2006-2019 Bombardier BRP DS250 Shop Manual
      2006-2019 Bombardier BRP DS250 Shop Manual
      Submitter Admin Submitted 09/25/2023 Category Can-Am BRP ATV  
    • By Whiterabbit
      New to me Quest 650 with the Rotax engine, auto trans. Looking at the starter solenoid there are the usual wires, Batt+ in and Batt+ out to starter and the 2 lil wires to the ign start button but there is a factory box with 2 lil wires coming out mounted to the frame next to it, one wire is connected to one of the large Batt terminals (12 o-clock position in pic). The other wire from the box is just dangling out in space. I can't find where that loose wire goes and what the **** the lil' box is. 😆 Need some insight please.

    • By BlueBowtie
      Is it possible to put a motor from a big bear 350 into a timberwolf? Reason I ask is that I have a timberwolf with a bit of a rod knock, and I have big bear with a bad rear end and axle with a good motor. So, is it possible?
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...