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Ok so I'm back lol
I got two arctic cat 300s that I am either trying to make one of the two or if possible I'll get them both running. I have a good start but I am struggling to find a wiring diagram that actually shows the connections.
Both bikes were tore apart and some wiring was spliced and all screwed up so I have been tracing wires and redoing the connections.
On one bike I have a neutral light and it will let the use e start to turn starter motor, thing is on that bike the motor is stuck engaged so when I pull the pull cord it's turning the starter motor as well.
On the other bike it is free and works as it should but I can't get the neutral indicator light to come on. Or any for that matter. I have been going through the fuses which all have power as well as the e start switch.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across some similar issues, I am checking the neutral switch tonight, I have been checking the wiring and comparing it to the bike that is working (in that sense) but both bikes are missing some things
I'm wondering if it is a better option to pull the good motor out and rebuild it then put it into the bike with the indicator lights working. But on that bike all the bushings and linkages are toast so there's a lot of work to either bike. I'd like to at least get the engine to fire up before I invest too much energy into swapping motors.
So if anyone has some info or can send me in the direction of a good wiring diagram it would be much appreciated. Thanks
I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable.
So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase.
I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner.
I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine. I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket)
So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that.
So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is?
Okay so I bought this 1997 sazuki king quad from a guy and he had it for a few years.
He had it registered and on the trails last year but he said it bogged and backfired when he would try to drive it. so it sat for a year.
I bought it for 800 bucks and got it running that night and it ran great for a few days
But I parked it the other night and went to start it again and it was really hard to fire up and when I did it was bogging and idling high then low again.
So I took the carb out and cleaned it (ended up doing it twice because it was still doing the same thing)
Now today I have it running slightly better, but it is still like 20%
I have been looking it up and trying to figure it out but I can't find the issue, has anyone else had this problem? I'll attach a video of it running and giving some throttle
So, I found myself in the only 5' deep water hole in Moab with the King Quad. Before I could get off it swallowed water at idle and died. The river water was not very clean. I pulled the plug and pumped the water out of it with the starter. I cranked on it and it popped for a second and then was done. Towed it back to the trailer. When I got home I checked the compression and it had none. I have a factory service manual. Disassembled and found the rings stuck in the piston lands. New rings and back together. I try to start it and get a C12 code CKP - crank position sensor. Troubleshoot and find it to be shorted. Installed aftermarket CKP, still get code. Check voltage on new CKP and only get 4.5V, manual calls for 5V minimum. Pulled every connector apart on vehicle and cleaned. Have continuity from CKP sensor side of connector to ECM harness. Install a known good ECM from another 2005 KQ I have. Vehicle fires and I let it run for 10 minutes. Shut it down and put the original ECM in and get a C12 code again and won't fire. Put the known good ECM back in and get C12 and no fire. Tested both ECM's in the other KQ and runs well on both ECM's. Installed a used stator and CKP. Still get a C12 code. Check used stator, 200 ohms and 6.5 V out of the CKP at the ECM harness. Checked ground at ECM harness and it is good. Checked spark with spark plug and without, none. Checked resistance and peak voltage on coil and it is in spec.
This thing has me baffled. All of the electrical possibilities seem to check out. Might be far fetched, but could the rotor key have sheared when it shut down suddenly when the cylinder filled with water? I know rotary lawn mowers can shear the flywheel key when the blade stops suddenly from a rock or stump. If the key is sheared and the flywheel is out of time by a few degrees could this be giving the C12 code? The voltage output is correct but at the wrong crankshaft position (wrong time).
Hello I have a 1999 Honda 300 4w/drive and I just replaced the Oem carburetor with a aftermarket carburetor after installing the carb on the bike it started great and idled like new one but when I shifted into first gear and tried to move forward it died, I shifted back In neutral and the wheeler started easy again I let it set there to see if maybe it needed to warm up but when I shifted into first and tried accelerating it died again, I am not a use to working on it and would appreciate any advise thanks
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