Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For model year 2011 BRP has come to market with a sporty new side-by-side that is sure to be the talk of the industry for quite some time – the Can-Am Commander.

BRP is clearly gunning to take over some of the lucrative side-by-side market currently dominated by Polaris, Yamaha, Kawasaki, and Arctic Cat. To appeal to as many consumers as possible, the Can-Am Commander is available with two different V-Twin engines. The Commander 800 features a 71-horsepower Rotax 800 EFI, while an 83-horsepower Rotax 1000 EFI powers the Commander 1000. Prices start at $11,699.

Commander-800R-Studio01.jpg

Commander-1000-X-Action03.jpg

Engine

According to BRP, the Rotax 800 EFI engine is the most powerful side-by-side mill under 1000cc in the industry, while the Rotax 1000 EFI V-Twin is purported to be the most powerful engine in any side-by-side. Each features electronic fuel injection and BRP claims that both offer class-leading fuel economy.

The Can-Am Commander family also features Intelligent Throttle Control (ITC). This new throttle-by-wire system works in conjunction with the throttle body to produce smooth throttle delivery even if one foot is bouncing due to the terrain. BRP says the ITC system detects unwanted bounces and filters the input. This is designed to result in more throttle accuracy, especially at low speed. Also, the system has no cables to adjust or replace.

Dual-Level Cargo Box

The dual-level cargo box offers a unique way to separate what you’re hauling around.

Five-way pre-load adjustable gas shocks are found at all four corners.

BRP took advantage of every inch of available space for storage.

Another very cool feature on the Commander is the Dual-Level Cargo Box. This is the industry’s first cargo box with two levels separated by a removable, water resistant panel. This offers the user the opportunity to have an upper and a lower bed with an independent tailgate.

The box has an impressive carrying capacity of 600 pounds – 400 pounds on top, 200 pounds underneath. It’s built using high-strength, anti-rust and anti-dent composite. Both the upper and lower tailgate can be removed without tools and feature a truck-like single latch. There are also integrated vertical grooves for plywood dividers and an optional trunk lock is available as an accessory to secure the lower level.

Suspension

Up front the Can-Am Commander is cushioned by double A-arm independent suspension with dive-control geometry, which is designed to eliminate diving under heavy braking and rough terrain. Out back you’ll find Torsional Trailing Arm Independent (TTI) Rear Suspension, which BRP says was inspired by off-road trophy trucks. This system is designed to provide excellent control, especially in rough terrain. Wheels move rearward as they move up and down to produce a smoother ride. Plus, TTI has up to 75 percent fewer parts than competitive designs and should reduce tire wear significantly.

At all four corners you’ll find five-way pre-load adjustable gas shocks the manufacturer says have the largest diameter in the industry (36mm/1.4 in.) and provide 10 inches of suspension travel.

Other Features

Each Commander also comes with a Visco-Lok front differential, which progressively transfers power from a slipping front wheel to a gripping one automatically. The system can lock up to 100 percent with no rev or speed limiter. It also requires no switches to flip – simply put it in four-wheel drive and go.

The Commander also boasts a two-inch diameter, high-strength steel ROPS-approved cage, a 240-watt lighting system, quick-attach side nets, three-point seatbelts with anti-cinch, 214mm disc brakes with twin-piston calipers, two-inch rear hitch receiver, removable comfort seats (driver seat is adjustable) that feature lumbar support, adjustable tilt steering, dual cup holders, and a huge 10-gallon gas tank.

Additionally, the Can-Am Commander offers 31.6 liters (nearly 2,000 cubic inches) of cockpit storage, 11 inches of ground clearance, 1,500 pounds of towing capacity, and a 650-watt magneto.

Cam-Am Commander 800R and Commander 1000

These base model Commanders are available in yellow for 2011 and come with all the features mentioned above, along with 26-inch Carlisle Black Road radial tires on 12-inch steel wheels. The Commander 800R retails for $11,699, while the 1000 has an MSRP of $12,799.

Can-Am Commander 800R XT and Commander 1000 XT

All the standard elements of the base models with the addition of the XT package items installed at the factory. The XT package includes a 4,000-pound winch, 26-inch Maxxis Bighorn 2.0 tires (6-ply), 14-inch cast aluminum wheels, upgraded gauge with analog and tachometer and speedometer, heavy-duty front bumper, rugged bed rails, mud guards on the wheel wells, and premium leather-wrapped steering wheel. Both are come in yellow, red, or an industry-exclusive NEXT G-1 Vista camouflage. The Commander 800R XT retails for $13,199 ($13,799 for camo), while the 1000 XT has an MSRP of $14,299 ($14,899 for camo).

BRP gives the XT treatment to the Commander 800R (pictured) and the Commander 1000.

The Can-Am Commander 1000 X

This is the high-performance sport model we’re most excited about. It comes with all the standard elements of the base model with the addition of the sporty X package. The most notable feature of the X package is the 47mm aluminum piggyback shocks built by Fox Racing Shox. The shocks are fully adjustable with high- and low-speed compression, high- and low-speed rebound and multi-position pre-load adjustment. Both front and rear shocks offer 10 inches of travel. With advanced high- and low-speed tuning available, users can dial in suspension performance to their preference. The large-diameter design and piggyback construction is intended to help dissipate heat. The Commander 1000 X has an MSRP of $14,699.

Thanks in large part to its aluminum piggyback shocks from Fox Racing Shox, the Commander 1000 X looks to be Can-Am’s answer to the Polaris Ranger RZR S and the Arctic Cat Prowler XTZ 1000.

Other features in the X package include 12-inch Aluminum beadlock wheels, 26-inch Maxxis Bighorn 2.0 tires (6-ply), updated gauge, heavy-duty front bumper, rock sliders, leather-wrapped steering wheel, X-package seat trim and graphics. The Commander 1000 X is available in black with yellow accents.

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BruinBeater
      Got asked to take a look at a 2014 Can Am Commander 1000 for an overheating issue.  Owner says he's been having issues for awhile.  Had another guy put a new electric fan on it and its still overheating.
      I take it for a test drive.  1 mile on asphalt and temp gauge is pegged and machine is telling me its overheating.
      Looking at it in the garage and I see, it low on coolant.  As in, the overflow tank is empty.  Can't see it in the radiator.  Not sure how far down it is.
      Took out the seat, and center console. I see coolant on top of both cylinders.  Its leaking a tiny bit from each coolant outlet on top of the cylinders.  They are plastic with a metal bleeder screw.  Both leaking from the bleeder screw.  Tried to tighten them but I can tell they are stripped out.
      Bought some aftermarket coolant outlets from Quad Logic.  They came with a new bleeder screw and crush washer for the screw.  They did not come with a new gasket.  
      Bought a new OEM thermostat.  Did it really need one?  I'm not sure, I didn't bother to test it.  Its not a cheap part but not terribly expensive either.  These commanders are a pain to bleed all the air out of the cooling system, I only wanted to do it once.
      Remove the plastic screen from the firewall so I can access the thermostat.  Cut all the old hose clamps off (OEM Crimps) Replace the T-stat.  Install new hose clamps.  Install new coolant outlets on top of both cylinders. 
      Now its time to bleed the system.  I have a "NO SPILL FUNNEL"  Remove the radiator cap and attach this in its place.  Fill the funnel up about half way and let it sit for awhile with the bleed screws open.  Once I see fluid out the bleeders, I close them.  Squeeze the hoses a bit and watch the air bubble come up into the funnel.  Once the system is full, I drive it to a hill in the yard and put 1 car ramp in the middle of the hill.  I drive up the car ramp with the left/drivers side tire.  This puts the radiator cap up nice and high.  Let the engine run for as long as it takes to get the air out.  I keep the full at least 1/3 full.  I rev the engine to 4K rpm.  I jump out and squeeze the upper rad hose, the lower rad hose, and both lines to the cab heater (aftermaket) I keep doing this till I no longer see air.  I also crack the bleed screws loose on top of the heads during this time.  The fan cycled on and off multiple times. It took approximately 45 minutes till no more bubbles were coming up into the funnel.
      Remove the no spill funnel and top off the recovery tank with the coolant trapped in the funnel.  Took it for test run up the road and hit a little trail.  Outside air temp was 92F and 90% + humidity.  Machine never came close to overheating on the ride.  
    • By johndeerefarm
      Is there any way to mod an Outlaw 50 to increase the speed? The size is perfect just would like a little more top end speed. Thanks
    • By sandy
      Can anybody tell me if there are any issues with this brand.
    • By Gwbarm
      I bought this Eiger about a year ago it has been my runner while i worked on my other projects, except today it wouldnt crank, i suspect it is the  petcock not letting fuel through. When i bought it it had a multitude of problems, but i just ignored those and rode it any way, put it on the back burner while i worked on my other projects with more serious problems, like stuck engine ,wiring harness ripped out, and wheels locked up. Got those all sorted out and since it wouldnt crank today decided it was time to refine this one. When i got it it had a bad Non OEM carb replaced it with a cheap aftermarket until i could find a descent priced OEM to rebuild, and have been riding it ever since. It also had a bad petcock, would only run on prime, neutral light didnt work, no brakes, which are a luxury anyway, but as im getting older luxurys are nice to have, so i guess i will fix those. I paid a little more for this one, $800 but he wanted $1500, because it ran and moved and most things seemed to work, and it didnt smoke, even with the bad carb. Generally 500 is my limit for a non runner, since this one ran i upped my limit a little. So i got it out of the shed before the mice got in it for the winter and started going over it today.
       


      I would never buy a new camouflaged one because of what you see here, and it almost stopped me from buying this one, but it is what it is, not much i can do for that now, they did look nice when new, i am toying with the idea of replacing the plastics while i can still get them, but am not there yet, expensive.

       
      I think the snorkel has got to go its not hooked up anyway. Looks like a perfect mouse house.
       
    • By sandy
      Does anybody know if there are any issues with the canam 400?  Thinking of buying one and would like to know if there is any issues with these atvs.  Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...