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Similar Forum Topics
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By Tim Keiper
1st problem, Does anyone know where I can find a stock carb for my Timberwolf, I have tried two different aftermarket carbs and they both suck. The machine runs great until it gets good and warm, then it keeps stalling unless I feather the throttle. it will even stall while I'm trying to go from 1st to reverse or vise versa. I took it to a buddy of mine who is a bike mechanic for years, and he told me try to find a factory carb. When I look online from dealers it says "NOT AVAILABLE" anyone have any suggestions ?
2nd, The small tab on the rear axle for towing is to short for even pulling my small yard trailer, I can't even turn a little bit and hit hits. I tried making an extension which worked great as far as length, but it bends the tab and then the extension drags the ground. I have an idea of what to do to fix it, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and see how you solved it.
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By Thumpinhard25
First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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By Gwbarm
I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again.
IMG_4910.mov There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by.
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By dalton7545
ive had an account for years. cand dowload a manual tho havent posted enought so here is a post
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