Quantcast
Jump to content


New to me - 2001 Yamaha Kodiak 400


pjm123a

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just brought a 2001 Kodiak 400 from a guy on ebay. Picked it up on Saturday. He said it was a 2000, but according to the serial number, I think it a 2001. They guy wanted $1200 and said it ran fine. I negotiated down to a $1000 before I went to see it. When I got there, he couldn't get it started. He said it would start and run for a few seconds if he sprayed in starter fluid, but he was out. So we ended up knocking off another $200 and I got an extra set of wheels.

So, 2001 Kodiak (non running) for $800. What kind of deal is that (good, bad, OK)??

Spent all day Sunday working the carb. After taking it on and off, cleaning. blowing air, etc

about 3 times, I finally found the problem. The float valve was gunked up and would not let any fuel in. That is why it only ran a few seconds with the starter fluid.

Anyway, not it starts and runs OK. Took it for a nice long ride.

Problems I could use some advice on:

Seems to not always want to go into gear. Clicks loudly. It will work if I put it in gear with the engine off, then start it. I think maybe it is idling a bit high, but can't seem to find anything to adjust on carb. The throttle stop seems to be set OK.

Speedometer does not work.

One headlight (high beam) does not work.

Brakes are really bad (almost ran into my workbench) :-)

Any hints, or tips are most welcome.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrats on the purchase, I think that's a great deal for $800. Any half way decent quad for $800 is a deal. In most cases, you can get $2000+ for that machine.

If it's idling high, that could cause rough shifting. Have you changed the motor oil? Make sure you are using specific ATV oil with additives in it, because the diff uses that oil also.

As for the speedometer, I believe that's a cable on that? If it is, maybe it's broken?

The headlight is probably a bad bulb. An easy test would be to swap them out with each other and see.

As for the brakes, see if there is any meat left and if they are out of adjustment. If not, you will need to replace the friction material. (pads/shoes)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys for the comments.

So far I have replaced the pads and pretty much rebuilt the rear brake.

You can see what the pads looked like when I started in the pic.

I've also changed the coolant. I ended up rounding the head on one of the caliper

guide pin bolts. Took me a whole day to get the bolt out. A new caliper from Yamaha

though is $277 so it was worth getting out. You can see whats left of the bolt in the pic.

Including a pic of the quad. Have the front end opened up.

Next up new filter and oil change.

Comments, suggestions, words of encouragement are most welcome.

P1010001.jpg

P1010008.jpg

P1010006.jpg

P1010001.jpg.fe19014cbdb89c34a50533c690baa38d.jpg

P1010008.jpg.9d45954dcffd0081dc2d2f8622d49e4d.jpg

P1010006.jpg.a72a7e0f77c840016bfcd9c6dc7e2f2b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you did alright for $800. Like Ajmboy said, make sure you use proper oil for your machine, car oil is not good for ATV motors. There should be a small knob sitting at the end of a cable that goes into the housing that your throttle cable also runs into. That knob will be your idle adjustment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work on the Kodiak is coming along pretty well. I have found that as I've run it a little more the idle is better. When it is idling properly it also shifts ok. Before I do any more adjusting, I'm going to let it run through another tank of new gas. Heck running gas through it is fun :-)

The one thing that I have not been able to do is an oil change. I just don't seem to be able to get a wrench on the drain plug and it is on there real tight. I'm beginning to think maybe it has a non-stock plug. Can someone please tell me what size wrench they use to take the drain plug off (2001 Kodiak). Is there some special tool that came with the machine that you are supposed to use (mine did not come with any tools). Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turned out I needed a 21 MM wrench. I had 19 and 22. Neither Lowe's, Home Depot, or Advanced Auto Parts had a 21 MM open end wrench or a set that included one. Finally picked up a set that included one at Harbor Freight. The bolt is finally out and the oil drained (and I now have a more complete collection of tools) :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again all - Have made some progress - the speedometer did not work because

of a broken cable. Just got the replacement today and will put in over the weekend.

I have changed the oil and filter. To solve the carb problems I ended up buying a new one.

Buying a new one from Yamaha would have cost an arm and a leg. I brought a new

one from ebay. They are clones of the stock Mikunis. Got mine for $169 including shipping.

If you are interested, just search ebay for yamaha kodiak 400 carb. Mine came today and

I was able to swap out the old one in about an hour. My idling and shifting problems are

now solved. The quad idles reliably. It starts easily and revs up nicely. I am actually

thinking about starting to put things together. Only problem is that it seems to smoke

a bit. I am thinking that when I changed the oil maybe I overfilled it a little. Could this

cause it to smoke? If this ends up not being the problem, I could use some advice on what

tests to perform and what the most likely culprit is.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just so you know, a 21 MM is pretty close to a 13/16". Also, those Yamaha carbs are know for floats getting stuck. My 450 had a similar issue, where after sitting for a bit, the pin needle got corroded, causing the float to get stuck up and not allow fuel to get in.

When you changed the oil, did you use ATV oil with additives and all that? I always used the 4 stroke Valvoline atv oil on my Kodiak. Check that air filter, make sure it's not clogged.

Glad you got it running!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Brantley11
      Hey everybody,
       
      My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!
       
      This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds. 
       
      Here is where we sit:
      Brand New Fully Charged battery
      Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner
      New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)
      Cleaned out petcock and gas tank
      New 93 Non Ethanol Gas
      New Spark Plug
       
      It gets a spark through the spark test light every time
      Bluish white spark
      When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head
      Good Compression
       
      Here are the readings:
       
      Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)
      Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)
      Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)
      Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms
      Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)
      Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)
       
      Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?
       
    • By Admin
      Looking for Yamaha ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Yamaha ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Yamaha ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply. 
      The following Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
      CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
      KBB.com https://www.kbb.com/vehicle-history-report/
      CARFAX https://www.carfax.com
      autoDNA https://www.autodna.com
      VinAudit http://www.vinaudit.com/
      decodeTHIS https://www.decodethis.com
      VINCario https://vindecoder.eu/
      NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck 
    • By Suzukiquad
      If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be? 
    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
×
×
  • Create New...