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By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
By Ben Cramp
I am hoping one of you knowledgable people can answer this for me. I have a yfm200 moto 4 engine I want to put in an off road go kart. I would like to mount a sproket where the drive exits the case before the u joint so that I can get rid of drive shaft and make engine bay compact. To do this I would mount engine 90° to axle but would also need to tilt it forward 15° to account for the angle the drive exists rear of casing. Would that be ok? Would oil pump etc still work. Any advice greatly recieved.
By Brian Sosebee
I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.
I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.
Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.
What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.
Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
By Ted Craig
I know a lot of people say not to use anything but Oem. For the sake of the those who chose not to, or the OEM part cost more than the project, lets hold back negative comments.
I just purchased a carburetor that is supposed to be up to OEM specs. The company has a good reputation on eBay and Amazon. The Carb is supposed to be for this bike and jetted exactly.
This question should basically go under carb adjustment. I installed the new carb, the bike idles fine. On throttle it sputters half the time and the other half it will rev up fine. Does this sound like the needle is set at the wrong point? Does it sound like the main jet is the wrong size? Or is there another adjustment besides the air/fuel screw thats is 2 turns out?
Yes i could truck through old threads and possibly find the answer, but i thought it would be nice to have one tailored to new carb installs.
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By Mo Salem
So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know.
Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC.
Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
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