Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

snorkel kit for 05 yamaha grizzly 660


Recommended Posts

hey all

just about to purchase a snorkel kit for my 05 660 grizzly and was wondering about something.

the one kit im looking at is the nicest looking yet, but it is only intake, cvt and other vent lines. i saw other kits that include the drive belt.

just wondering which one i should go with. if i really don't need a breather for the belt, im ordering the kit online today. i have driven in water before lots of times and my belt has never slipped once.

thanks

david

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really don't have much experience dealing with belt drive systems, but I would think that a re-located vent for the drive belt cover would be good to have. If you get water in there, it certainly wouldn't help things. If you really like that particular kit, you could always make your own breather for that part. I would think it would be pretty simple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By gatorschevy
      I own a few older quads mix of kinds a couple of  Yamahas, a Honda, can-am  a Kawasaki, they are older quads but in good shape the question of the day is....... what's the best way to polish up the plastic?
       I have found that Dollar General mold remover is good to get the black stuff off the plastic works good, but was wondering how you polish up the plastics on yours.
    • By Matman
      First time working with a Honda-Matic transmission. I didn't even know what I was getting into when I purchased this running beat up farm workhorse quad with black oil. I was thinking I could tear the cases apart and find the bad bearing, causing the random squealing noise when you put it into gear and give it gas. Upon opening the engine covers, I Learned about the Honda Matic automatic transmission and realized there's more than just an electronic shift motor going on in these quads. With my learning curve in major education mode, I'm now wondering two possible culprits to the squealing as I've torn the motor down and am staring at the Honda Matic transmission.

      Two possible issues:
      1. The bearing that is squealing is unfortunately inside the hondamatic unit hydraulic transmission which is apparently not serviceable? A new unit is $1,900 to replace it! Yikes!
      2. The pull starter rope snapped and someone replaced with the wrong pull starter rope that eventually became severely worn out and the centrifugal lever/catch shows signs of wear from rubbing against the housing.
      Thinking now the pull starter has nothing to do with a squealing that loud, so my attention is now on the Hondamatic unit, 
      Has anyone gotten inside their cases to inspect the Honda Matic transmission?
      There's a only 1or 2 videos out there that are not helpful for tear down and inspection.
      I understand it can't be rebuilt but wondering if anyone has looked deep enough into one to clean it out from running dirty oil? Possible identify bad parts.
      I refuse to believe Honda is engineeering these as completely non-serviceable?
      Thinking I will try to disassemble the Hondamatic unit m. Hopefully get into it and get all the dirty oil out and replace with fresh? Any special tools needed?
      Any and all thoughts/experiences with Hondamatic units would be great conversation for me..

    • By Fish0rDie
      Was told there was some good information on this forum, so I'm here engaging in some good ole conversation haha. Bought a buggy aka shitcart for 100 dollars. Thing was a woods toy for the past owner. Used and abused until she went boom and was left in a field to die. All things considered that may be an exageration, but the top end of the warrior 350 that was on board was absolutely mangled. Piston and head assembly were totaled. Have a new jug, piston, and head assembly, but struggling to get the crankcase back together without the transmission binding. Can share pics that are on my phone if anyone is interested in seeing this shitty story unfold.
       
    • By DAFinner
      Hey All,
      Just wondering if anyone knows of any ATV junkyards and their contact info. I'm up in the panhandle of Idaho and we have no sources of used, secondhand or junkyards for atv or motorcycles nearby that I've been able to find. I've heard of some pretty large ones that operate east of me and would like to know if anyone here has a recommendation or experience in this matter. Thanks in advance.
    • By geezer99
      Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago.  This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine.  I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
      Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections.  Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level.  One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
      Here are some things I don't like:
      The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it.  It is essentially a solid axle.  Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement.  In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
      To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover.  This according to the manual.  I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
      I am not used to a CVT transmission.  I am used to a clutch and multiple gears.  This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up.  I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
      The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them.  I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close.  Problem solved.  I will leave the passenger door as is.  Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
      The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
       
      Here is some stuff I like: 
      I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill.  There is.  I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
      The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff.  This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
      The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces.  I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
      The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate.  Much like early Japan pickups.
      Steering is responsive and little slack.  Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
      Seats are pretty nice.  Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
      Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in.  Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled.  Yeah, it works to buckle them empty.  Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it. 
      Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV.  This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well.  Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well.  The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well.  The guys at Lowes were impressed.  They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
       
      As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
      tom
       
       
       
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...