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I've been riding Suzuki Kingquad 300's for the last 20 years. I have 3 of them. I love the low gearing, low center of gravity, low rider position, low racks shaft drive and smooth ride, but they are getting old and I'm tired of fixing them. Best engineering of any utility quad, IMO, but the execution...build quality is not up to par with Honda, so the price you pay is lots of wrenching.
I positively despise CVT type belt drives. My neighbor has a couple of old Hondas, Rancher and Rubicon and I admire the reliability of them. He does very little maintenance and they always run and have pulled my Kingquads home for me when they break.
Is Honda the only company that makes ATV's that don't have CVT? I like the build quality but I don't like the high rider position caused by the vertical cylinder, the cold nature of them, having to warm up for several minutes and the plastic skid plates. I guess all modern ATV's have the same issues, though (correct me if I'm wrong).
Been checking with the dealers, it seems Honda foot shift models are scarce. I really don't need devices/gadgets to decide which gear I need to be in. So I'm avoiding the DCT models. I must have IRS and EPS because of my age and physical condition though.
Is it possible to get a Rancher with IRS, EPS and foot shift? The specs I'm reading show the rancher is 2" lower than the Rubicon. I'm assuming that to be seat height. With vertical cylinder design, the more you grow the engine, the higher you push the seat....at least that's my thinking.
Any comments from the Honda experienced?
By Michael Rogers
Well this is my first time tearing down an ATV. Have done a little work on 2 stroke's in the past, but not much. I'm needing some help. I've got a Bayou that has lost compression. I tested it, and it was like at 40psi. I had already set the timing on it, and it does have spark fuel, etc...
My question is about the cylinder. To me it looks pretty toasted, but need some help in determining. It is a 2000 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I bought it not running, just to see if I can get it running so it has not ran since I bought it. This question is about the cylinder, and part 2 I have will be about the CAM.
Any advice / help is greatly appreciated.
Inside sleeve a line(left line) runs the length that I can feel with my fingernail. The line on the right I can't feel.
Some rust it looks like on these two pictures.
So honed out the cylinder and got most of it nice nice but left with this .. Might just have to have the things bored out now ..... some before and after..pics.
1995 Polaris Sportsman 400 4x4
have to have the things bored out now ..... some before and after..pics..
recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
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By Aj Hurtibise
I have a 2000 Honda trx90 I got from a buddy for free he said it needed a carb so I put his old carb back on it to try to get something out of it and it does not have any Spark. I already replaced the ignition coil I don't know much about four wheelers but I am a technician so I do know my way around a motor any electrical help would be wonderful or specs I don't have the best digital multimeter either.
So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
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