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I'm Excited. in 4 days i will go pick up my Crated 89 LT250r Quadracer. completely unseen. No idea of condition or complete parts list. With a lot of unknowns, Ive started making a parts wish list. Which has me trying to decide on set ups, color scheme, aftermarket, OEM, or hybrid parts and in general what i am wanting to get out of this Quad. After much back and forth i'm done arguing with my self. since this is a complete rebuild and not going to be a restoration. I've decided I want to build a balanced mix between Mx race ready machine and a trail dominant beast. So where to start??? I'm greedy so of course I want all the pros and none of the cons. Not as easy as it sounds.This is What i've come up with so far. Which at any time is subject to change. Chassis Gussets a must. the last thing i want is to destroy the frame after spending hours upon hours building around it. All stainless steel control cables and lines. +2+1 A Arms, +4 Axle. The goal here is to have 50" stance. I understand in the past most trail riders prefer a more narrow stance 46" to 48" but with the saturation of UTV ( Joto side by sides) on the trails. Most trails have been widened. So in reality a 50" wide Quad should not struggle for room while gaining the added stability of a wider stance. +2 Swing Arm, If I can find one... The absolute best Adjustable Suspension system I can afford. Performance Pipe/silencer, Reeds, and Carb combo to get max out of assuming stock engine. Holeshot tires or similar on 9" rims. Nerf Bars. LED light upgrade. Possibly a larger fuel tank upgrade, If such thing exists. Custom Air box with performance filter. All Black Race cut Plastics. All Chassis, Arms, Nerf bars, Bumpers, engine, Wheel Hubs, Brake Calipers, Foot pegs. Up 1 tooth front Sprocket and down 1 tooth rear sprocket. Plus anything I forgot underneath. Will all be powder coated a Rich but not to bright Blood Red . Including Grips and guards same Red. Along with Same Red Suspension covers... A 4" to 5" single S Suzuki Logo for nose of front hood same red. Red stitched Full Suzuki Logo on back of seat. a custom and Extremely SATANIC Vinyl job. Upside down crosses, pentagrams, and Number plate 666. You guessed it, same red with white highlights for depth. Her name will be Jeannie. After my wife. who is a very sexy, yet life sucking bitch, that will lay you out and punish you if you push her to far.
So this is my basic concept. All while trying to Balance Trail with Mx. If you see or think of something I missed or something you think may work better for my situation, by all means, mention it here. I will definitely take a look at it. Suggestions, thoughts, opinions are very much welcome... Until then... Deuces!!!
By Kurt Reiser
My quad will not run with the airbox hooked up Will not go past quarter throttle as soon as you unhook the tube at the back of the carburetor it runs great does anybody have any ideas what it could be I have a bad fuel pump one on the way can that cause the quad to run like that
By Rick Shropshire
Here's some pics from within the last month. Rather than build a frame and body from scratch, I drove to Kansas and bought a rust bucket G2 for $40 minus batteries. I've since cut it up in prep for the 1100cc v-twin shaft drive engine. I've included a picture of the of the latest mock-up. Im extending the frame and wheel base 12 more inches and widening the body by 12 more inches as well. I have on order a right side axle shaft and housing for the left side of my ATV rear end. This will widen the axle by about 12 inches. I will be eliminating the front a-arms and replacing with straight pipe from knuckle to knuckle. I'll post more as it progresses.
Complete Grizzly build
I built this Grizzly to preform at top ability in the mud! There is a few things that i am looking to change on the grizzly but well see!
Gorilla Silverbacks 28x10x12 Front, 28x12x12 Rear
( https://atvtirescanada.com/gorilla-silverback-tire.html )
( https://n2deepcustoms.com/ )
Rox Speed FX risers and bars
( https://bit.ly/2TsRv18 )
2r Racing tip
( https://amzn.to/2GgNdpE )
( http://2rracing.com/ )
White Secondary spring. 8 - 16g rollers, 1.5mm shim
( bought at local dealer )
Rad Relocation kit:
( http://www.rubberdowncustoms.ca/ )
12" Light bar
( https://amzn.to/2TrfZYy )
( https://amzn.to/2TpF9Xu )
Flush Mount LED headlight conversion:
( https://amzn.to/2D10Lm8 )
Yamaha front Bumper
( bought at dealer )
( https://amzn.to/2DQwmIR ) - guards
( https://amzn.to/2S2BCSq ) - mounts
3/4 inch spring spacers
Synthetic winch line
( https://amzn.to/2Gj1S3F )
By Mike Lee
Have you ever had your 4x4 seal literally pop out of the 4x4 housing on the Outlander 450? You will want to try a simple fix to keep this from happening. First, get the old seal out and clean the seal surface on the 4x4 unit with brake cleaner. Take your new seal, and remove the spring. Untwist it and clip off a half a centimeter or so of spring. Don't clip off the wrong end! I do this because these seals fail far too often and this seems to fix the issue. Put it back together. Tap seal into place. This is where you get creative. I was able to cut pieces of shelving metal that clamped against the 4x4 unit to prevent the seal from popping out and holding them in place with zip ties. You can do whatever you think you can pull off with what you have on hand. Just get something on the 4x4 that holds the seal in place on opposing ends. Oh, and always replace the yoke o-ring. Those never retain their shape and will cause leaks if you do not do so. Inspect the wear ring on the yoke and replace if you can feel a fine groove where the seal rides. Remember to use RED locktite on the yoke bolt and tighten that bolt tight as ****. This is the one that always comes off during abusive riding.
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The saga of the fan continues.
The Pin attempt in the fan shaft failed. I then moved on to trying to weld the fan hub to the fan shaft. I took it for a run the weld broke. Now it was truly F'ed. To recap the dealer price, they want $400 + CND for a replacement fan assembly.
I searched all sorts of after market places and no one carried one. Ebay had some used ones but they were $120 USD + Conversion rate for something as old as what I have. I went to Amazon and eventually settled on this.
What I found... and was amazed... was that the fan mounted to the Suzuki fan assembly bracket. I was prepared to manufacture my own mount conversions... It also came with "Harpoon mounts" (nylon zip tie like things that go straight through the rad. Anyways it mounted to the original bracket. It fit perfectly. Cut the electrical plug off replaced it with the Suzuki... all good. Let the quad heat up, thermo coupler kicked in the fan circuit, polarity was right... all was good.... Fan is under the circuit fuse rating.
so I finally have a solid fan solution. $34 CND vs $400+ CND
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
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