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By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
By Preston Latray
I just sold my mildly built blaster and am about to buy an 84 atc250r I'd like it to be a modded banshee killer. I already plan on a port and polish and possibly a head shave. It's going to pretty much be a full drag build. I'd like it to stay stock bore but I can change it if necessary. What parts should I plan on ordering to get the most bang for my buck. I can do all the work myself so that should cut costs quite a bit. (hopefully)
Haven't posted anything in a while, but I do have a couple long video's you might enjoy ... I'll post the newest one now, and the other one later ...
So ... Took a ride to an area I haven't been too in about 10 yrs. Don't remember it being as rocky as it was, and the parts I remember being really bad, although still bad, weren't as bad as my memory remembered ??
We did 18.4 miles in 7 hrs and averaged 3.3 mph :drivingc: ... Man, What A GREAT DAY !! :woot:
And some of you are gonna hate me, since this video is 19 minutes ... but I promise, it's not boring at all !! :toetap05c:
We had great weather, lots of challenges, saw lot of deer .... and not one other person all day long !! :coolgleamAc:
Make sure you change the video quality to 1080p for the best viewing enjoyment !! :seeyac:
01 Oct 2013 - Taylors Fork Ride - YouTube
By Nate Clark
So I have a 2003 Polaris Predator 500 completely built and running. And then I have a 2004 Polaris Predator 500 completely disassembled. I've got the suspension, handle bars, steering and bottom of the motor on the brand new frame (previous frame was totaled, that's why it's disassembled). Everything else is in boxes.
I've done all sorts of repairs on quads, ATVs, dirtbikes, snowmobiles, boats, cars...was a mechanic by profession in the 80's and wrenching my entire life. Done top end rebuilds on multiple bikes over the years. But I've never put a box of parts together like this.
It shouldn't be hard as I have a running bike to look at and I have the factory service manual as well as a print of the polaris parts manuals. My question is in the best order to put this thing together. I can't locate a set of instructions to follow. I can figure it out without instructions but I find that instruction guides save me a lot of time. I'd like to get this thing running by June and it will be an after work, weekends project.
Any pointers on the order of assembly...where to start...would be highly appreciated.
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The saga of the fan continues.
The Pin attempt in the fan shaft failed. I then moved on to trying to weld the fan hub to the fan shaft. I took it for a run the weld broke. Now it was truly F'ed. To recap the dealer price, they want $400 + CND for a replacement fan assembly.
I searched all sorts of after market places and no one carried one. Ebay had some used ones but they were $120 USD + Conversion rate for something as old as what I have. I went to Amazon and eventually settled on this.
What I found... and was amazed... was that the fan mounted to the Suzuki fan assembly bracket. I was prepared to manufacture my own mount conversions... It also came with "Harpoon mounts" (nylon zip tie like things that go straight through the rad. Anyways it mounted to the original bracket. It fit perfectly. Cut the electrical plug off replaced it with the Suzuki... all good. Let the quad heat up, thermo coupler kicked in the fan circuit, polarity was right... all was good.... Fan is under the circuit fuse rating.
so I finally have a solid fan solution. $34 CND vs $400+ CND
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
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