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Similar Topics
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By Travis Johnson
My 1988 Honda 300 fourtrax has a short all of sudden neutral light works but when I put on headlight nothing can't start it unless kick start please help
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By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
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By MarkinAR
What is the opinion on carb kits? What's one of the better brands of aftermarket? OEM is always preferred but not practical, chinese cheapie is never a good option.
Thoughts ?
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By raybob
replacing carb,, the bigger line on right side top of carb does it just vent to the air,, cant find where to hook it up to also I want to check the oil and gear oil I checked the oil in motor and the rear end my question is looks like allen plug on left side of motor if you are setting on the 4 wheller, ps it hs a oli leak any help would be great. Ray in kentucky
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By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
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Similar Tagged Content
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By wHarmon
Our 1988 Yamaha Terra Pro is finally seeing the finish line of becoming our new bush hogging tractor! I've had the terra pro for almost 2 years... we had great intentions, but after removing the fenders, fuel tank, and the carb, we let it sit up. Shame on us! However, the terra pro is cranking today. We cleaned the carb, figured out what goes where and where did that screw go! She smokes like there's no tomorrow, but that's okay! The only issue right now is getting all these lines hooked back up to the carb right! There is 5 lines to hook up to this thing!! And in our moment of drinking and removing parts, we cant remember how they go back on. I've found several diagrams online, but none showing the overall schematics of all the lines! If anyone has a service manual, or any way of helping us figure out what goes where I would really appreciate it!! I can attach pictures later if it'll help!
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By crazynordlander
Hi All,
I live in Minnesota and bought a 2016 CFORCE 500 HO. I am in hope to see if there is anyone in the US that is experiencing this sudden drop off in RPM below 4000 RPM. I have uploaded some videos of my issue on YouTube. I will list three of the four I posted. The fourth can be found on my channel but it is a comparison between my Polaris 570 and my CFORCE 500.
I quit on my first dealer because we just did not mix well together. I brought it to another CFMOTO dealer that just became a CFMOTO dealer in January 2016. They are in a large ranch and agriculture area in a neighboring state that is pretty close to where I live. They have close to every brand available. They are a much larger dealer than the first one I bought the unit from.
I brought the unit three weeks ago to them and they have worked on it a good solid week and have given up on it. I have read reports from owners in Canada that the dealers there were aware of the issue and have had success in fixing the herky jerky drivability issue.
I am picking it up tomorrow and bringing it back home. It has been to the trails of the Black Hills this year and was new in late April. 300 miles on it. It has never changed. Very hard to ride on the trails or when I herd livestock.
Here are the links to my videos.
I can't accept that this is normal operation. Does anyone from CFMOTO China scan these posts?
I need help that CFMOTO USA has not provided.
Thanks
Kevin
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By alexcross324
Hi all, I try to find this manual in the threads but you have a lot of stock here
Cannot find this particular manual.
I found it for YFM200 but not sure if they are the same.
Thanks if you could help me with that.
Im new here so if I did something wrong, please tell me.
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By alexcross324
Hi all, my second post here
I got an old Yamaha 88 moto 4 and I have a problem with my overflow hose from the carb.
When I put the gas switch to ON a big amount of gas is leaking from the overflow...so I start using my quad with the gas switch to RESERVE wich is also leaking but less than in ON position.
I dont ride a lot..but in a week I empty my gas tank.
Strange.
I never clean my carb because Im new to quad world and dont have the service manual...so I need you point of view.
Thanks guys!
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By dboy910
Ok new to group and new to quads. I picked up a 88 Big Bear for next to nothing but it has issues. The entire high low revers shifter has been removed. All I have is a bar attached to the linkage. I can shift into all three but I would like to replace or get suggestions. I have looked around but there is limited info or pictures on what I would need to buy or where it even mounts. Any pics of what where and how it works would be great. Or direct me to correct thread.
Thanks
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