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By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
replacing carb,, the bigger line on right side top of carb does it just vent to the air,, cant find where to hook it up to also I want to check the oil and gear oil I checked the oil in motor and the rear end my question is looks like allen plug on left side of motor if you are setting on the 4 wheller, ps it hs a oli leak any help would be great. Ray in kentucky
By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
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Hi all, I try to find this manual in the threads but you have a lot of stock here
Cannot find this particular manual.
I found it for YFM200 but not sure if they are the same.
Thanks if you could help me with that.
Im new here so if I did something wrong, please tell me.
Hi all, my second post here
I got an old Yamaha 88 moto 4 and I have a problem with my overflow hose from the carb.
When I put the gas switch to ON a big amount of gas is leaking from the overflow...so I start using my quad with the gas switch to RESERVE wich is also leaking but less than in ON position.
I dont ride a lot..but in a week I empty my gas tank.
I never clean my carb because Im new to quad world and dont have the service manual...so I need you point of view.
Ok new to group and new to quads. I picked up a 88 Big Bear for next to nothing but it has issues. The entire high low revers shifter has been removed. All I have is a bar attached to the linkage. I can shift into all three but I would like to replace or get suggestions. I have looked around but there is limited info or pictures on what I would need to buy or where it even mounts. Any pics of what where and how it works would be great. Or direct me to correct thread.
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