Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Getch

1990 Big bear rear brakes

Recommended Posts

More observations and questions on this new to me bike.

The rear brakes work OK but its obvious that they are in need of attention.

It appears to me that the brake lever has been slightly bent at somepoint in its life. Another observation is the pedal travel is huge so I use the hand brake instead.

Both cable adjusters are cinched all the way down as far as they can go.

I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect the pads yet.

I suppose my real question is does what I've described suggest need for new pads and cables or should new pads only get my adjusters, etc back into a more "normal" state like whats is shown in the service manual pictures?

Also, I think I might be able to bend the lever back but seriously wondering if it really needs to be corrected. It is definately "off" a bit but not very much.

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


i would say yes to new pads for the rear and everything should get better with adjustments. the front brakes on these are useless IMO. i wish they went to disc like the rear. there isn't a conversion kit available as with the hondas. too bad on that ...

i would heat the lever up before i tried to bend it back. you have a 50 50 chance of it coming out good or breaking ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI...Worked on the brakes this past weekend. found that either dad-in-law (unlikely) or the shop that serviced the bike had the cam holder mounted out of spec.

The raised indicator line was pointing straight down vs directly to the rear. I am not sure that really matters or no because once I put it back to "normal" and reinstalled everything am am back to nearly no additional adjustment as the pads wear.

The pads looked nearly new. Still tons of "meat" on them. I did adjust and the pedal feel better now.

Also found the reverse lockout cable is unconnected and appears frozen....but thats another story.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Similar Topics

    • By pokolbinguy
      Hi All,
      Following on from the brief interlude in the "introducing myself" thread....
       
      In a nutshell, I acquired a YFM250 Moto 4 (1991) for cheap recently with the previous owner citing "no spark, needs a new magneto coil and I don't have time to fix it"... anyway I am dubious that the magneto/generator is the issue and thinking more along the line of ignition coil as after a clean up of the magneto I was able to get a rather decent voltage reading off the magneto with pull start and resistence readings seem to check out that the magneto is all ok (all 3 x phases = 1.2 ohms and no run to ground)
      None the less I ordered a new Ignition coil and Magneto/generator coil and am waiting for them to arrive.
       
      In the mean time I cleaned up the current Magneto, popped in a new battery and sparkplug, checked out all the wiring harness, all seemed good except I came across the "neutral switch" wire was broken.
       
      After wiring up a new neutral switch wire, the neutral light now comes on  (small win) and the starter relay (attached to rectifier) now clicks. If I hit the starter switch on handle bar the starter motor spins and if I  pull the cord starter I get a spark on pull....YAY!! I'll try and attach a video below if possible.
       
      So onto the starter motor. Starter solenoid seems to work A-ok, even if it looks crappy and starter motor spins as it should when I hit the start switch....but here is my issue.
       
      When the starter motor runs it turns Cog #1 and Cog #2 (see photo below)....but the chain in the back of the starter which I assume is the timing chain, does not move and there is no apparent movement of the piston in the cylinder.
       
      If I turn it by hand (per photo) or with the pull starter however the chain moves and the engine turns. However cog #2 rotates but not fluidly with the "Crank" (part I turn by hand) for the lack of a better word to use if that makes sense?
       
       
      Is there a grub screw or similar on Cog #2 that fixes it to the center shaft to make it all turn when the starter motor is run? Could there be a part missing? Previous owner had the starter apart so could be possible?
       
      The outer/front part seems to be on a key-way so not sure how to remove this easily to check how Cog #2 is attached.
       
      What am I missing here?
       
       
       
       
       

      spark_baby.mpg


    • By Wayne Gilroy
      I currently have a 2015 Polaris 570SP that I bought new and have been riding for for over 20 years.  
      I don't do much trail riding or mudding like I used to when I was younger.  I mostly use it around my 25 acres in the country as a utility vehicle (moving trailers, working on hunting stands and gathering firewood in the woods).   The work in the woods sometimes tests the stock tires, but most the time I'm on high and dry ground.  And every once in a while the wife and I will get together with some other atv friends and go for a day of trail riding.  Maybe 2 or 3 times a year give or take.
      I use the ATV year round, but here in Northwest Wisconsin, the snow depth makes it prohibitive to getting out in the woods or out on the frozen lake.
      I don't want a snowmobile (they are such a bitch to get un-stuck in deep snow - I know because I have a friends 500lb sled stuck in 3 feet of snow and slush on the lake right now).
      So I'm thinking about getting a tracked machine.  I've never driven one, but have watched several youtube videos that are quite impressive.  Especially for snow.
      I have seen some systems are geared for snow only, and some that are all terrain.   I would prefer to use a track system year round unless someone can convince me it's better to have tracks just for snow and wheels the rest of the year.
      My questions are:
      1. Between a Can Am 1000 and a Polaris 1000 - which one is better for tracks? I'm familiar with the Polaris AWD system and like it.  I've "heard" that Can Am's 4wd isn't quite as good, but maybe that's not true.  I'm open to other machines but these two are just my preference.
      2. Tracks - all season vs winter. 
      How much of a pain in the ass is it to change from tracks to wheels to tracks each year?  Are the snow only tracks worth it vs year round tracks?  Can you comfortably trail ride (non winter) with tracks?  I'm talking long, boring, well groomed, straight, flat dirt trails.  At the end of 50 miles am I going to wish I had put the wheels on? How long are tracks good for?  My machine will be garage stored and my annual mileage/hours will be minimal.  Are there any things to be aware of in terms of warranty violation if I were to buy a new machine and put tracks on it myself vs the dealer? Any issues with stock axles, clutch or other components? Thanks in advance!
    • By sammyshin
      Hey so i have a 1990 bayou 220, and its missing the wiring harness so i went online and bought a bayou 300 wiring harness by mistake. Will it work if i use the 220’s cdi box and ignition coil?
    • By JacobSlabach
      in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are...  how they are set up and which you prefer.  To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain?  I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers.  Which is better and why?  Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams?  Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all?  Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
    • By dctaz37
      Hello, the ATV doesn't stop anymore so I guess it is time to replace the brakes. Looking for part number and instructions. I think it may have shoes front + back and the front would be hydraulic. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...