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My 87 Bear 350 won't start and could use a hand.
Turn key on and Oil light turns on and then slowly fades out. (I think this is key to this) No start, not even a tick.
battery and connections good
A Solenoid post jump turns it over
Neutral Safety Switch wire attached and seems good
It has not had a wire/switch on Rear Brake Pedal ever since I had it.
Any thoughts on some other things to troubleshoot this??
I just want to clarify that i was doing the timing correct. I wanted to adjust the valves, so, I removed the spark plug, I removed that little black plastic cap on the side, then, i turned the engine counterclockwise until the "T" lined up with the small groove on the threads where that black cap screws in. Then i checked the valve clearances.
So, what is the "F" mark for?
I hope the "T" was the right mark to use. lol
My Yamaha Big Bear shifts through all the gears good, goes into reverse smoothly, but when i go to get out of reverse it takes a lot of effort to get it back to first gear, and even then it does not go very smoothly, have to pull up on the pedal really hard, anyone else ever had this problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I am working on a basket case for a friend. It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB). It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
Anyway, first thing is first. I checked compression, 150psi. Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time. I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages. It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
The bike runs. It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration. Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean. White strap, with no black whatsoever. So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot. It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air). It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on. The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there. I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
Anything big I am missing here? I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue. This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.
Thanks for any assistance.
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
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