Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV, UTV or SxS? Join our Community Forum!

    QUADCRAZY ATV Community and Forum are FREE to join! We keep our ATV, UTV, and SxS forums clean and user friendly. All first time posters in our forums will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first ten posts are approved, you will no longer need to go through a forum post approval process. To bypass the approval process with immediate access and a NO ADS experience in our ATV, SxS, and UTV forums, consider subsribing to a Premium Membership

1999 Suzuki King Quad 300 - Floods~Won't Start


New2Quads

Recommended Posts

I went to start my '99 King Quad today and it fired up and ran rough, very rich.

It's cold out so I wasn't surprised and figured it would warm up and run smooth like it usually does. It's been running a little rich but is fine once it warms up.

Instead of warming up though it died. I couldn't get it restarted so I took it down to the garage and pulled the spark plug, it was covered in gas.

So I let it dry out and tried starting it again. It wouldn't fire and the plug was soaked again.

I took the carb off, cleaned it, took the bowl off and sprayed it all down. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary but I couldn't get the float out to check the needle.

I put it all back together and got the same results; the spark plug gets soaking wet.

So it seems to me that either the float has a hole in it (but the float wasn't full of gas when I took the carb apart) and is sinking or the float needle is not sealing (this is what I suspect) and gas is just pouring into the bowl.

Am I on the right track here?

It looks like the shaft that holds the float on is peened over on the end opposite the end that has a head on it, is that correct? I wasn't able to just pull it out as I'm used to doing. Any tips on getting the float out would be great.

Thanks for the help!

Edited by New2Quads
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you know for sure you are getting spark? This almost sounds like an ignition problem to me.

If the float had a hole in it, it would be full of fuel, and if the needle was stuck open I would think that the carb would overflow with fuel and spill into the engine. If that is the case, you would have a lot of fuel in the oil or at least on top of the piston. If you tried to start it in that case it would hydro-lock and likely bend a rod. Next time you try to start it, pull the plug, try turning it over and see if fuel shoots out of the spark plug hole.

Did you check the float height adjustment? It should be about 1/2" or level with the flat part on the aluminum body where the cover mounts. You can check if the needle is seating properly by blowing into the inlet (make sure its clean) and moving the float up and down to see where in the travel it closes (blocks you from blowing air). If it never closes or closes way too low, then you have your answer.

I just had mine apart but never tried to remove the float, so I dont know what the pin looks like. Sorry. But I found a float kit on ebay and the pin just looks straight on that end. I dont know why it would be peened over...

http://compare.ebay.com/like/140885671419?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Edited by bobs66440
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I better check for spark before going any further.

Last winter I spent countless hours checking over the fuel system on my car because it was flooding, finally I took it to the shop and it turned out to be the cap was burned and creating a weak spark.

I do not seem to have fuel pouring into the cylinder but I will get a closer look, it definitely isn't coming out the carb overflow.

Thanks for the tip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Suzukiquad
      Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn. 
    • By bco20
      does anyone have an owners manual or repair manual i could download ?i got a 2018 king quad 5oo eps special edition can not find either anywhere thanks
    • By Bobbywolf
      I am working on a basket case for a friend.  It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB).  It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
       
      Anyway, first thing is first.  I checked compression, 150psi.  Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time.  I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages.  It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
       
      The bike runs.  It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration.  Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean.  White strap, with no black whatsoever.  So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot.  It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air).  It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on.  The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there.  I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
       
      Anything big I am missing here?  I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue.  This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.  
       
      Thanks for any assistance.
    • By GrizzlyRider
      The 2024 ATVs are out and I was just looking at the websites for Yamaha and Suzuki. The Grizzly and King Quad have come a long way, probably two of my favorite quads over the years. Both of these come with power steering but I almost like the King Quad styling a little more. The plastics haven't changed much over the years either, mayeb a little more rugged. The King Quad racks are more like the Polaris plastic racks (I think they were the first to introduce these) but on a closer look, I think its just plastic covers over the traditional metal racks. The Grizzly still keeps the old style metal racks. I like the display/instrument panel on the Grizzly more.
      2024 Suzuki King Quad


      2024 Yamaha Grizzly

      Thoughts on these two? Here's a pretty good comparison of both 2023 models. I didn't know some of these things like no seat latch on the Grizzly and hydraulic rear brake vs cable. Good video to watch if you are consideting these:
      Grizzly 700 vs KingQuad 750! 2023 Full Shootout!" width="200">  
    • By p5200
      I'm assuming, it's alright to test the engine after adjusting valves without the rear axle installed? Can someone please verify this? I'm waiting on axle parts and wanting to get that done while waiting. Thanks! 🙂
  • Similar Tagged Forum Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...