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The saga of the fan continues.
The Pin attempt in the fan shaft failed. I then moved on to trying to weld the fan hub to the fan shaft. I took it for a run the weld broke. Now it was truly F'ed. To recap the dealer price, they want $400 + CND for a replacement fan assembly.
I searched all sorts of after market places and no one carried one. Ebay had some used ones but they were $120 USD + Conversion rate for something as old as what I have. I went to Amazon and eventually settled on this.
What I found... and was amazed... was that the fan mounted to the Suzuki fan assembly bracket. I was prepared to manufacture my own mount conversions... It also came with "Harpoon mounts" (nylon zip tie like things that go straight through the rad. Anyways it mounted to the original bracket. It fit perfectly. Cut the electrical plug off replaced it with the Suzuki... all good. Let the quad heat up, thermo coupler kicked in the fan circuit, polarity was right... all was good.... Fan is under the circuit fuse rating.
so I finally have a solid fan solution. $34 CND vs $400+ CND
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
Hello i have a linhai 300 of the 2004+- era. I had a cluch problem so we changed it. After changing it has a hard time to start going. When you pop it into gear and press the gas it barely drives but when it starts going about 20km/h it start driving well the acceleration is normal and everything do you have any idea of what could be the problem
By Richard Western
I am hoping someone might be able to help me out. My Kawasaki 300 4x4 has an issue where it doesn't seem to want to go into neutral and also it will shift into reverse without using the lockout knob.
If anyone can suggest what to look at it would be very much appreciated.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
I've inherited a 1995 Lakota 300... it has the knob in the center of the handbar to twist to go into reverse, but I've notice when downshifting, you don't have to have the knob turned, it will shift right past neutral and into reverse which is a little dicey if not all the way stopped. I followed the linkage back and twisting the knob seems to actuate the lever on the outside of the trans, the internals just don't seem to care about this.
What is the likely problem and how back is it to get to? I've never been inside of one of these transmissions.
fighting this thing for a month now.No spark at plug.
New ignition coil,pick up coil,stator,reg/rectifier,all new wiring.Started it up today rode for an hour shut it off.Tried to start later wont start.pulled plug wire it firing a blue spark while starter button is pressed.Tried new plug no change. It stared a couple times an ran for few seconds then died.Will CDI act this way? The reg/rectifier get pretty hot is this normal?
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