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Everything posted by catcandu

  1. catcandu


  2. Isn't the valve lash adjustable on that model?
  3. For plowing, take that cable off and replace it with an old piece of seat belt. They sell plow straps, but the shoulder harness out of a junk car or pickup is just as strong and a lot cheaper.
  4. Since it doesn't have a fuse, check to see if there is 12V at the connector. If there is, your electric choke is probably shot. The symptoms are classic for an automatic choke that is not opening properly.
  5. Is your Electric choke getting power (fuse) and operating correctly?
  6. Read a forum thread on arctichat.com from a guy running 29.5" tires on a 400 and he liked this clutch kit. EBC Brakes - Clutch kits DRC120 DESCRIPTION: Complete DRC Series FITMENT: •Arctic Cat ◦400, 2003-2004 - 2x4 ◦400, 2003-2008 - 4x4 EBC Brakes EBC COMPLETE CLUTCH KITS from ATVUnlimited Brakes Atv&pos=3 EBC DRC Series Complete Clutch Kit - BikeBandit.com [ame=http://www.amazon.com/EBC-DRC-Series-Clutch-DRC120/dp/B000GVA5WQ]Amazon.com: EBC DRC Series Clutch Kit DRC120: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@518QMEZzSkL[/ame] EBC DRC Series Clutch Kit DRC120 Suzuki | eBay Almost forgot, you'll need the CT 006 tool or an equivalent. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CDTXI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00A43TO5K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13F78Q625XPR8W1K0E37]Amazon.com: EBC Clutch Removal Tool CT006: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@31egsPa-2-L[/ame] http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CT-Clutch-Tool-Arctic-Cat-400-2x4-4x4-2003-2004-/390527912457?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5aed470a09
  7. That sub-transmission/differential shifter is normally a PITA. Some guys says it is like night and day, regarding how much easier they shift w/o the lockout pin. Others say it didn't make much difference. Probably depends on how well the shifter is broken in and how well they cleaned and greased it. If you have the time, take it completely out and apart and clean any rust, etc. Then grease it with marine grease. Bet it will be a lot better. When you change the oil, watch carefully for the small o-ring under the filter and be sure you re-install it. I usually pull the RR wheel. It just makes everything easier to get at. When you think you have all the oil out, let the jack down as low as you can with that wheel off and watch how much more comes out. To add oil I use a long neck funnel and a 2 ft length of clear hose attached to the end of the funnel. It goes in slow. Fill until it just reaches the fill line in the window with the wheel back on and the machine level. Run it a minute then shut it off and ad enough so that it is between the lines. Make sure the oil says JASO-MA approved on the bottle so your wet clutch won't slip. Personally, I use Shell Rotella T6 fully synthetic 5W-40. That way I can run it year round. I think the main transmission shifts easier with the synthetic oil. Just MHO. While you are in there by the filter, it is also easy to adjust the clutch. It's the little round cover about 11 o'clock from the filter. You just remove the cover, loosen the locknut, tighten the inner adjusting crew until snug then back it out 1/8 turn. Tighten the lock nut and replace the cover. It's hard to hold the inner screw while tightening the locknut, so I just make a mark on the cover lined up with the slot in the screw and check it after tightening the locknut. It usually doesn't move.
  8. On those Suzuki engines many times a simple clutch adjustment will clear up the problem. See attached page from AC service manual. You will definately need a better clutch running 28" tires on a 400 manual.
  9. The only way I know of is to remove the carb. Suzuki manual says 2-7/8 for a new pilot jet screw. I was mistakenly under the impression it was supposed to be 1-1/2 and that is what mine is set at(93-LT-4WD). It runs fine, so I'm not going to remove it to mess with it.
  10. If you want it to plow even better, you can remove the Super Low lockout pin so that it can be put in front differential lock in low or high. The mod also makes it shift ranges easier. Here's a link to a lengthy thread on the mod. It'll probably take longer to read it all than it actually takes to do it. I think the only reason Suzuki put that lockout on them was for product liability reasons. Just don't drive it in High with the differential locked at high speeds on hard surfaces. Differential Mod - Suzuki ATV Forum
  11. Up is off. The Suzuki starter (choke) is not a butterfly choke, but a fuel enrichment system. It is designed to only be needed below 40°F for starting. After starting gradually move it up as the engine warms. Shouldn't be needed after only a few minutes. Also when starting with the starter on (down) because it enriches the fuel, don't touch the throttle or you defeat it. Both of my 93's start down to 20°F by just tapping the starter. No choke and no throttle. If your spark plug and fuel are fresh, yours should start like that. At 2000 miles that model is just getting broken it. With proper maintenance it should last 8000+.
  12. Here's one on ebay for $100. Not all years interchange, but if you go to cheapcycleparts.com and look up the part number for yours and the one for sale, it will tell you if they are the same part number and will therefore interchange. If that one for $100 fit, IMHO grab it. They don't come up real often. Usually by the time you need one, so does every other one made that year unless it was garage kept and babied. In which case they probably aren't parting it out, but still driving it. Most years the KingQuad and LT-4WD (or 250 Quadrunner 4x4) will use the same muffler. http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-Suzuki-LT-F250W-Exhaust-Muffler-/271116939185?hash=item3f1fd42fb1&item=271116939185&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
  13. PM oxidized_black, he may have the service manual PDF. It's a lot more in depth than the owners manual, but everything you'd ever need to know is in it. You might still be able to purchase the owners manual from you local dealer or an online atv parts house, cheapcycleparts.com has them for around $17. When looking up the part E03 is USA 49 states, E28 means Canada, and E33 means the People's Republic of California.
  14. I agree. Remove the seat and look to the right of the carb for an electrical connector. Ground that and see if your neutral light comes on. It goes from the neutral switch to the neutral relay. If the light doesn't come on, it's probably the relay. You will have to pull the front fender and rack to get at that.
  15. Since squirting oil in the cylinder didn't raise the compression much, it's your call on the rings. If it wasn't smoking, don't know as I'd mess with them. (I realize compression rings and oil rings do different things.) But it sounds like the valve is the culprit. Having the head re-done professionally sounds like a good plan, IMHO. If you do the head and put it back together and still have low compression, pulling the head a 2nd time will go faster because it's all fresh in your mind and you probably still have the tools right there. To do the cylinder right you would need to mic it and will probaly end up with new piston, rings, and maybe even cylinder. Again, just MHO.
  16. You can check the fuel pump by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb and hitting the starter. Gas should squirt out of the line in small pulses. You can check the vacuum line at the front right side of the carb by removing it and looking to see if it is wet. Since it is a vacuum line it should be dry as a bone. Also look at both lines for cracks. If you have to replace the fuel pump, it is on the left side of the frame below the handlebars. You will have to remove the front rack and fenders to get at it. You might also want to ask oxidized_black for a service manual download. It has a couple pictures of the fuel pump. They aren't real good as far as showing the location, though. And as oxy says check the petcock. If you pull the line off at the petcock, gas should run out of the petcock when you turn it to on or res. The gas then goes forward to the fuel pump. then down to the carb.
  17. Could be your fuel pump. It should pulse when you take it off and crank it. Check the vacuum hose to it for holes. Also check if there is fuel in that vacuum hose. If there is, your diaphragm in the pump is shot. Also be sure there is enough fuel in the tank to be above both inlet screens
  18. Those old Suzuki motors are famous for wearing the intake valve. Check the lash (.001-.003). If that valve is too tight, you'll loose compression. Also did you hold the throttle open when you did your compression check? They will read low if you don't.
  19. 2004 Kawasaki V-Force - Motorcycle USA I read this review of the Kawi 700 you are interested in. Sounds like one fast SOB. Not trying to sound too sarcastic here, but if you take up deer hunting, do you plan to buy a Barrett M107 as your first deer rifle? It's a semiautomatic 50 caliber BMG. Will penetrate armor and has an effective range of 4200 yds. It uses the same round as the P-51 Mustang fighter and the M1A1 Abrahms tank's heavy machine gun. What I'm trying to say is, maybe start out with the 450 you mentioned as a second ATV and if that doesn't satisfy your need for speed, then step up to a true rocket. Starting out with way more power than you need or have the experience to handle could sour you on sport ATVs. Or it could kill or seriously hurt you. Would you let a 10 year old play with it? You have stated that you have never been on a sport ATV. Just because you are 20 years older than a 10 year old doesn't mean you are any more experience. Don't take this as critisism. It's more of a long distance observation.
  20. FI - fuel injection usually runs smoother than a carb, but repairs could cost more. IRS - independent rear suspension. much smoother ride than a rigid rear axle. 3 speed transfer case - Hondas usually only have high range. Most other brands of 4x4 atvs offer hi and low range. Low is useful in mud and going down steep hills. Old Suzukis had an even lower gear (super low) to compensate for the small engines (250-280 cc). I've pulled a 25 foot trailer full of barn beams with a 250 in super low. don't think they've made it since 2001 or 2002. I had a Kodiak for a year and put the third set of brake pads on it at 500 miles. On the other hand they are cheap and very easy to replace. I don't think I even had to take the wheels off. Other than that they are pretty tough and priced right (used). 2005 and newer have the independent rear suspension. And the brakes are hydraulic disc front and rear. Not cable drums in the back like Hondas. Avoid Polaris, they break a lot and my son in law was seriously hurt on one when the tie rod broke for no reason. Steel plate and 7 screws in his knee! Arctic Cats are durable, have all the features, but tend to be a bit heavy. Kawasakis seem to have a lot of electrical problems. newer Suzukis have less features than the old ones. Can Ams are pricey for what they are. I don't know if you can get Kodiaks with a manual shift, tho. Never seen one. But most of the newer automatics are pretty reliable. I think they all buy the same CVT (constant velocity transmission) from the same source or at least build under license from the same patent holder. Honda is the only one who won't pay and designed their own. It's actually a manual trans shifted automatically. Hope this helps. I'm sure you will get other opinions.
  21. As far the utility quads you have looked at, the only one that sounds any good is the 420ES Honda. FI is only available the last 5 years or so. A 420 will take you anywhere you want to go at a decent clip. Hondas do have a few drawbacks. No IRS, most can't be switched for 4x4 to 2x4, and they don't have locking front differentials. They are great for girl friends to drive. Kind of point and shoot type ATVs. My GF has one. I drive an old 93 Suzuki LT-4WD 250. It has a 3 speed transfer case (Hi,Lo,SuperLo). IRS and locking front diff. I've had it places I shouldn't have been. I have had newer and bigger utilities, but keep selling them and going back to old faithful. It'll only do 35mph flat out, but on a curving trail through the woods, that's too fast. When I get on gravel roads, I use my pickup. Back to your list, forget a 2wd utility around mud. They get stuck to easy. Personally, I'd avoid any Hondas with an automatic. I know I'll hear about this comment. But IMHO they can't take the abuse a clutchless manual can. If they do break think in K$'s. An old adage in looking at used atvs, look at the plastic. If it is beatup, so is the bike. I wouldn't buy used over 1500 miles either. Ther are a lot of good garage queens out there that only get driven a few times a year. Be patient, you'll find the right one in a couple weeks or so. Anyway that's my 1 cent worth.
  22. You can find used Thunder cats for around $5k and sport atv's are a dime a dozen this time of year.
  23. Have you looked at the Arctic Cat 1000 Thunder Cat or the new Can Am 1000 (83HP). The cat even has one that is all snorkeled out for mud. Both will do 85+. And your GF will be happy.

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