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Similar Forum Topics
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By Does_This_Look_Bent?
Hey everyone, I just replaced the carp on my 98 Kodiak 400 with PN#4SH-14101-00-00. It starts and idles perfect, but once it’s good and warmed up, it bogs out at 3/4 throttle or more… it sounds like it’s bouncing off a rev limiter haha… I tried the air fuel screw, all the way in and out 2-1/2, and it made it a touch better… tried 2 turns and no different. Am I missing something?
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By Kaz
Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
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By mga
I get it, turn counterclockwise will decrease, turn clockwise will increase. My question is what exactly am i increasing or decreasing? Is it clutch pressure? In many videos i've seen it's always "turn counterclockwise" until you feel resistance then back off. Why is it always to decrease?
I'm just curious as to what exactly is going on when i turn that screw right or left. And, since there's no manual clutch to engage or disengage, what is going on inside?
Reason why i'm asking is while going down a hill in 1st gear, it appears to pops out of gear, but no neutral light, and if i stop, it's in 1st gear still. BUT, (always a but) if the engine is warmed up, it stays in 1st gear. The hill is too steep to use any other gear, so 1st with the brakes is the only way to go down.
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By Wam12905
Hey all!
I recently acquired an 02 big bear 400 this past summer, carb on it was shot to sh** (pics attached) so my father recommended I just buy a new one off amazon. I purchased the first one that came up as compatible and once it came in, I bolted it in and it fired right up with no noticeable issues. Once I got to the trails with it I realized that on any un-level ground, there's little power output. I checked with 3 different local shops and they all refused to work on tuning up off brand carbs because of how terrible they are. One shop had a motorcycle in with an aftermarket carb and the mechanic said that that would be me if I brought my big bear in. Whoever owned the motorcycle and needed their aftermarket carb tuned up had racked up the bill to nearly $1500. Needless to say he made it clearly obvious that putting any amount of money into an aftermarket carb is not worth it. Now that I've learned all of this, I'm wishing I didn't toss the old carb for a $30 amazon one. In light of this minor f-up does anybody have any recommendations for high quality carbs for my vehicle? I've also attached pictures of the old carb and its condition for your curiosity, although its current condition is likely 6 feet under in a landfill somewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283488113569?_skw=Big+Bear+400+Carburetor+Oem&epid=10042848409&itmmeta=01JCDWCTMJX5GBC407RF2PPVDD&hash=item42013553a1:g:INUAAOSwn8llquIL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkIMhqd%2Fye0vA0YMR5DUzMoCLl0F9GPNRfuAJKaylVqqyVrZCBJVvXQaPrlosjt%2FZnIHyIRPuGiIbxC9o%2B02UqGA4YqXDyyH4bVebnTPz8P5Elg76CvLdu3KyZgwpgpSeYJK2IOWtlo9vtTld7RVjqPwSv1VF26v6kyXGesAB%2BA%2BCHsj3OnqNrHMyKCBuDMSSvUWvOfq%2BKsZKqyHR7yduef%2BHBlXvfiyRJPThHr7Ge9n%2BHBbuxRCb4oF7%2Fp8oZsvajHy9YDitFRfNJeeAssYbgXuhAc7AVvUZZ2YxKW9GzDdxltLMap8orKJtr%2BIk0SRGQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMsqqzvONk
I found this one on EBAY that advertises as a genuine OEM part for a fraction of the $650 that they're normally worth. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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By robert63
my cat only has 100miles on it and is in mint cond. since i bought it new in 2009 it has had what i believe to b a carb problem. going down a steep hill makes it want to stall. as soon as u r on level ground its fine.and at top speed it kinda acts like its starving for gas. u let off the throtel a bit n its fine. idels good starts good. hav taken it back to dealer several times. they eithor said it didnt do it or mayb bad gas. my friend says it sounds like the float level isnt rite. any advise would realy help.
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