Quantcast
Jump to content


2001 Yamaha Warrior 350 wont accelerate


Boreas-Rex

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Bought a 2001 Warrior not running. Kid claims to have had it rebuilt due to valves sticking open.Claims it was completely rebuilt and .030 over on the piston. After digging around some. Its all in doubt. Any way i pulled the carb and it was so gummed up it looked like someone stuffed it with cotton. SO I cleaned and put a fresh rebuild kit in it. It finally started but backfired a lot and would only Idle. I was told this was definitely the pilot circuit. So i have re cleaned and blew everything out with air. Re-assembled same issue. I have electrically isolated the parking brake circuit. Meaning I plugged the two bullet connectors together as I have read in many of the forums. So I know that isn't the cause. I know the stator is going out as you have to crank it over and over to start it with the starter. But I believe the stator is only used to start the bike electrically the bike can run without one. I spoke with a yamaha tech and was told the pilot circuit was the cause, so I re-cleaned the carb and paid special attention the the pilot jets etc.. I have the same exact issue. She purrs like a kitten at idle but the second your try to give her a little gas its like its being choked out. I was starting to lean towards a timing issue, but she wouldn't idle so good if the timing were off right? Anyone have any suggestions. I am running out of ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
    • By DarkRider
      This is something I'm extremely curious about. Has anyone ever attempted to buy a quad (or any other vehicle) from an impound lot? I've always wondered if this could be a bargain, or a waste of time. Google searches do turn up some helpful results. Looks like the state of NJ holds auctions online which I'd be a bit hesitant about.
       
      My online searches haven't really turned up any results of anyone buying an ATV this way. I'd be really curious if anyone tried this, or knows someone who has. I've actually found a couple pages with online auctions for my state, but none had ATVs.
    • By Suzukiquad
      If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be? 
    • By Bobbywolf
      I am working on a basket case for a friend.  It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB).  It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
       
      Anyway, first thing is first.  I checked compression, 150psi.  Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time.  I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages.  It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
       
      The bike runs.  It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration.  Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean.  White strap, with no black whatsoever.  So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot.  It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air).  It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on.  The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there.  I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
       
      Anything big I am missing here?  I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue.  This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.  
       
      Thanks for any assistance.
×
×
  • Create New...