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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By Its-always-something
Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
Any help and information greatly appreciated.
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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By HSTAR
Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N
Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
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By Suzukiquad
If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be?
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