ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

This is much clearer and understandable than the diagram I found. Again, Thank You. Cavry

This is what I'm looking at. output.pdf

Do you have a wiring diagram ?

I'll try that in a few minutes. That still leaves the heavy brown wire. Thank You.

The diagrams I looked at described both the starter relay and the starter solenoid as "relay". I think we should describe the one with the starter cables attached as the starter solenoid.. to avoid confusion. In the diagrams I looked at the colours were different but the solenoid had two small wires operating it, one of which was black, and that one went to the starter relay and bought the 12v to the start solenoid to close it's contacts. The other one was supplying an earth to the solenoids windings. Then there was a white wire which in my diagram was shown as being connected to the battery's positive post, but which could be attached to the solenoid's battery cable post/terminal and it would serve the same purpose of supplying 12v power to the main fuse and then the bike.

Wiring shows White and Brown to solenoid blades. Then a black wire from starter circuit relay to solenoid. I am confused, where is that black wire supposed to connect? Thanks for any help Cavry

Those other two wires only act to kill the ignition. If you look at the switch(#3) in the diagram, it's showing that when the key is is the on position, the power is switched to the brown wire(which feeds starter and lights etc), and the ignition kill wires are not connected. When it's in the off position the kill wires are connected and the power wires are not connected.

Well if the bike is like that diagram I posted, and the two wires you are connecting are the red and brown wires that go to part #3 in that diagram(which is the key switch), then it means the key switch has a bad contact or bad connection in it or it's wires/plug. Your wires are just by-passing the contacts in the key switch.

Guys I'm at a heading shaking my head at things now so If I take a jump wire from the brown wire from bike side and add a jump wire to the red wire on key switch side my start button works all lights bike starts up . Why is adding power from red wire bike side to brown wire from key side making the start button work someone plz help me with this you don't have to have key on I'm so so lost I just want to ride

Good advise. Thanks for the info, i am not really expierienced with that particular engine with automatic valve adjusters.

Those early Can Am's weren't that popular and those engines didn't stay in production after the v-twins arrived. It's worth checking into the clutch operation, maybe there's something that's failed in there preventing the full shift and limiting the rpm's??

Good to know. Thanks. I'm kind of doing shot gun troubleshooting at this point. I replaced the speed sensor, no change. I bought an aftermarket carburetor and actually runs worse.

Already had the throttle body off and it wasn't really dirty. Cleaned it anyway with Brakleen followed with carb cleaner. Only time it threw a code after I cleaned it (probably residual solvent in a sensor. Have drained the gas, put in fresh gas and seafoam, but same thing, no change. I haven't pulled the injectors, but they ohm within range. Like I said, I am at a loss and Vaseline might be the only way? BTW, for all those that don't know, on expensive equipment you can put it out to bid. If I need a throttle body, I got a quote/bid for $825 which is much better than the $1,245 from John Deere.

Agreed! Thanks for the info. Great information there from research, not found in any books.

Yeah dealers are like that, i think their philosophy is " if you have enough to play,you have enough to pay". I would try taking the throttle body off and cleaning it, there is probably a sensor in there that gets gummed up over time, certainly wouldnt hurt, and you might get it done without taking it off, i have done it that way, but you can clean it better by taking it off. You also might try first Berrymans B12 Chem tool in the gas, its a very good fuel injector, carb cleaner available at Wal Mart and most Auto Parts stores, i have had good luck with that cleaning up gummy injectors and throttle bodys.

The BRP single cylinder 650 is a unique engine that does not have traditional valve adjustment. It does not use shims either & I believe the rocker arms have an automatic system similar to hydraulic lifters built in. The confusion is that the Outlander 650 is a V-twin with adjustable valve clearances - totally different engine.

After going through the entire service manual with the same issue and no solution. Manual stops at "service ADVISOR". So, will probably need to get a jar of Vaseline and go to the John Deere dealer.

Thanks for sharing. That's good info for anyone looking for a match for their timberwolf.

Sorry I suck at these forums so if you see this submitted under update status, my bad. Anyhow this is a new shock for a 96 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 it fits my 96 Yamaha Timberwolf 250 4x4 perfectly. Little narrower are the bottom than the original but everything else is perfect. I extended it to almost a half in from full extension because I’m pushing 350 pounds. It rides and hold me well. So if any of y'allRace driven shock. have been looking for one and didn’t want to do the research here it is.

Brilliant, cheers, there is a good spark so it sounds like I have either a broken/poor live or a dodgy earth so hunting for that will be tomorrow's task 👍

The fan gets switched on when the oil temperature gets high. The fuel pump gets turned on when you first turn the key but then switches off unless it's getting a pulse from the cdi. The pulse from the cdi is the same pulse that fires the ignition coil, so if you have spark, you have the required pulse to operate the fuel pump relay, you just need to ensure it's getting to the pump control relay. When wires have no continuity, or have high resistance, it's almost right at the end of the wire where it crimps into the metal terminal, it either corrodes or breaks the wires inside the insulation. Wires do sometimes break if they have been chafing for a long time on something and worn right through the electrical tape, insulation, and then the copper wire, but that's easy to spot by the frayed insulation.

On the contrary, you and everyone who have replied have been very helpful, I really appreciate it. That's really good advice, thank you. I will pay particular attention to the earthing and post any findings.👍

As i recall the motor controller, a very expensive part and no aftermarkets available, is activated by the CDI, and it absolutly has to have a good ground to operaate correctly, including the fan, the controller itsself may be grounded through the CDI, not sure, i am having trouble relating what i know to yours because the one im more familar with didnt have a fuel pump. I think what you are doing stripping the wiring loom and checking is the best way to find it, you can throw expensive parts at it all day long and still may not get it. You have worked hard at it i havent been much help, but good luck.

What you say makes perfect sense but I think I must still have enough fuel in the tank to allow it to gravity feed as I tried removing the pressure line and blew into it...still nothing!! I gave up yesterday after stripping the whole top end and the wiring loom. Fuel relay working on rpm makes sense but I don't know what activates the fan as I can't find a thermostat!! Will have another go later today......

Thanks, no, I haven't noticed any other problems. I have now stripped out the complete wiring loom and will now test each of the wires!!