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Hello, im looking for some input on this situation i have. My 94 Mojave has no spark, and i have no idea what it is. Ive replaced/tested the magneto, the pickup coil, cdi, the ignition coil. Even the key and Killswitch. I haven't tested the harness its self, but i have tried another harness and still nothing. The only thing i can think of is the fly wheel itself. I have found a lot of metal shavings in the fly wheel and have cleaned it the best I could. But nothing happened afterwards. I am truly stumped here and hoping some of yous could shed some knowledge/ideas that could help get this thing to fire.

You should download the service manual, it tells you everything you need to know and has suggestions about the limitations and use of belt drive. There'll be a manual on this site I'd think.

What do you clean and lube the sheaves with

Well, as an update, and hopefully save others the time and cost of parts, after replacing the fuel cut off, rectifier and kill switch, and stripping and testing every wire and connection, I checked the carb again. Although I had taken it apart and cleaned, then blown it through with the airline, I had missed a tiny grass seed which was stuck in the main jet!! After poking it out with a strand from a wire brush, she fired up and revs a treat!! Just shows you that even after 50 years working on motors, even an old fart like me can still make "rookie" mistakes!!🙃DOH!! Thanks again to everyone for their help👍, ps, all the answers deserve a "tick" as being most helpful.

I found some seat covers on Amazon for $35 and decided I would give them a try. I took the old cover off and cleaned the foam with bleach and water solution. I left the foam in the Sun and it killed off all the remaining mold. I watched a few YouTube videos and bought some stainless steel staples. The cover went on with a lot of stretching. I paid a lot of attention to removing wrinkles and getting the seams straight. There were a lot of temporary staples needed to tack after stretching. I took my time and the seat turned out great. I will take pictures for my next post. Thanks for your posts

Ouch ! How did that happen ? Yeah it looks like part #1 800398.

That does sound mighty like what it could be Gw.. Good call. I'd still clean and lube the moving parts of the sheaves though when changing a belt. It's important they are all moving nicely or the gear ratios and so load on the engine get out of whack, and that could cause the belt to slap more than it should.. But I'll bet Gw's right.. Even if the ratios are hanging a bit high, it can probably be overcome by either throttling off slightly, or changing gear.

Variations of zinc have been used as friction reducers for a long long time. That does work. Quad bikes have a lot of roller and ball bearings though, and those don't wear from friction, they just work and flex the surface until it starts lifting off. A friction reducer in the oil of a quad would help piston scuff and gear wear, and a few bronze bushes, but you wouldn't want to get it on a wet clutch.. It wouldn't be good if you had a catalytic converter on your bike either.. Or perhaps, an O2 sensor.. not sure about that though but they are generally pretty sensitive.

I can see the photos now and from what i can tell from the parts diagram it is part #1800388 Rear wheel axel bearing seat. Click on it and says part is no longer available. That may be a hard find, but i would look on ebay. You might also do an internet search with the part number and find a new old stock one floating around.

here is the parts diagram where I think I see it visually in the image... but when i scroll down the list I dont see axle housing? idk... here is the link to where i was looking at the diagram. https://alpha-sports.com/eton2_parts.htm?fpg=/eton/2005Yukon(YXL-150)/25.htm

Check if you can see the photo now?? Idk what the deal is with my photos not working on here. I tried posting these ones with a different method this time.

idk what keeps happening with the pictures. let me know if you can see these ones

Sounds like sheaves may be sticking, it may also depend to what degree you want excessive power in high gear, generally when i want extreme pulling power i go to low gear and when i hear them clatter when in high gear under a load, i switch to low.

Interesting stuff it claims its smart nano technology and only sticks to bearing surfaces, but then it shows a photo of how it repaired scratched piston rings.

Does he bed the new belts in as they require ? Have the sheaves been dismantled and cleaned, lubed etc ?

Anti friction is good, but I'm dubious about their claims it repairs wear. I mean, if it builds up a hard layer on metal, how does it know the difference between crank shaft and bearing journal, and if it builds up the surface, by how much, and does it cater for the different clearances required between roller and shell bearings. If it only puts on a layer one nano-particals thck, then that's not going to effect several thou of wear, and if it keeps building up thicker and thicker, then how does it know to stop building up for the required clearances things need to allow for expansion and oil flow. Truth is it's probably no better than any of the other friction reducing compounds we use.. nano or not.

having an issue with the unit when running under a load up a hill or in high gear, seems like the belt is slipping, there is a clapping sound coming from the primary clutch like it releases and snaps back in. i don't think I should have a noise like that. this is a friends unit and he has already replaced the primary twice with the same result. not sure where to look next

I see quite a few ads for that Tribotex additive. It's kind of expensive, has anyone used it it their ATV or any other vehicle?

It is supposed to be 15 times stronger than steel, never tested it. I have one winch that has it on it, it is great rolls up better than steel doesnt rust. I like it very much. I dont use the winch that often and i still have several steel cable winches that work very well, for me i would not change the cable on my existing winchs, but when they wear out, i would only buy a winch with dyneema on it, it is so much easier to use.

That great you got it going, you have been busy, look forward to seeing the photos.

Has anyone changed the steel cable on a 1500 lb. winch to dyneema? Was this a positive move? I live in the mountains of Ga. near the Ga/NC line. There is lots of rocky ground, rough creeks and gullies, and too much red clay. I've used the steel multiple times (a couple of those I needed my doubling block) with no negative outcomes. Anyway, are there benefits to Dyneema? What is the working life? Does the cost justify the effort to change?,

Thanks to all. The '02 Bayou300B is up and running well. I still need to rebundle the wiring. Headlights are working now. I did go ahead and install a new solenoid while I had the body panels off. I also rebuilt the front brake master cylinder. As soon as I get it cleaned up and buttoned up I'll get a few pics posted. Again, thanks to all. Cavry

Yeah NGK plugs, and i usually usre Yamalube mineral oil for one this old, but there are a lot of good oils out there that is just what i use, its not that much more if you dont buy it from the dealer, problem is waiting to get it shipped. So if you need it right away wal mart has valvoline and Rotella that i have used in a pinch.