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1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 400 Service Manual

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1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 400 Service Manual




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  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Dimelol
      I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. 
      So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got.  This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
      Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
      Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
      Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within the specified range.
      Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within specified range.
      Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) 
      My reading was 0.3 Ω
    • By Admin
      View File 2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 450 Owners Manual
      2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 450 Owners Manual
      Submitter Admin Submitted 06/29/2019 Category Yamaha ATV  
    • By Admin
      2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 450 Owners Manual
    • By Don Colburn
      i bought a set of rims and tires off a 450 kodiak IRS its a 2013 factory rims and front rims are striking the calipers on my 2017 kodiak 450 anyone have any insight ,i thought they would just bolt on
    • By chuckufarlie
      I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
      After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
      When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
      Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
       

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