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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2019 in all areas

  1. No, it is not done by any means. I am still fabricating the frame, steering, exhaust, throttle, brakes, etc. When the chassis is done, l will then fabricate a fiberglass body for it. The 2 real pictures that l posted were of my first prototype chassis. I have made a few changes since then. As far as operating it, it will be driven more like a manual shifting car, than a quad. It steers by the front and rear wheels. The front, and rear turn in opposite directions. When turning left, for example, the front wheels are turned left, and the rear are turned right. The center wheels are fixed, and don't turn left or right. I have added two updated chassis pictures.
    1 point
  2. Hey Gary, I was looking through your wiring diagram and highlighted a few things. Please verify that I’m looking at the right diagram please. As a side note have you tested your stator coil to see that it’s not dead shorted. Reason I’m asking is based on your wiring diagram it looks as the stator goes directly to the regulator/rectifier. So I would unplug the stator and do a quick test from each phase to ground and see if you get any sort of continuity on the tester. You shouldn’t get any reading from any of them yellow wires to ground. If so there a problem within the stator. You can also unplug the stator and try the regulator again and see if it blows a fuse. Then if that checks out ok I would disconnect the battery and put one lead of the tester to the ground and start touching various parts of the red (hot wire) that comes from the fuse block going to the regulator as well as other areas that carry a 12v hot lead looking for a short. So make sure your tester is on continuity/ohms setting. I like to use a tester that beeps when there is continuity. Also test the starter wire, starter relay and the line going back to the battery to ground for continuity. This way you eliminated everything that could be a short leaving only a fault in the cdi. lastly the third pic I circled the on off switch in blue it appears the wire is listed as “P” so maybe (purple?) it comes from the on/off switch and if it’s disconnected it appears it will isolate the cdi unit from the rest of the system. So try to find that wire around the kill switch and unplug it. Install the new rectifier and see if the fuse pops. Im in and out of WiFi so if I don’t get back right away I’m out of range. Let me know. good luck
    1 point
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