micorps

i dont personally like it, I noticed it distracts me to much which is why i use it for running. You need to concentrate to much racing.

I would recommend a IPOD with your favorite music, i am a natural runner but is easier with an ipod. also you need to have someone who will make you do it and run with you

theres nothing wrong with a warrior and whatever deal presents itself at the time is what I would go with. As someone else the warriors are alittle heavy and not a good choice if you plan on racing. I you may race I would find a nice 400, which go for about the same used. If you plan on just riding there is nothing wrong with the warrior it will do everything you want it to do. Which ever way you go, I would find something that is stock. That way you know what you are getting and you can starting modifying it to you preference and is more dependable.

Make sure you also get physically fit. Cardio endurance is just as important as muscular endurance. I work out 5 days a week and still am running on fumes when I finish. It is very dangerous racing 2 hours and not fit to do it. Also get used to going fast in very tight conditions. At Times i am scraping bark off trees. How wide is your quad, I would not recommend going any wider than 46-47". I would assess 25% is your quad and 75% is your conditioning and the rider.

The GPR is like the precision except the CPR mounts on the top of the steering stem and has handlebar mounts built into it and allows you to make adjustments on the fly. Why you doing the unadilla when bncc goes to TN and KY, unless your talking MX. If you race GNCC you absolutely need good tires and wheels, everything else is nice to have. Full skids are a must too, I kept tearing mine of by breaking the welds until i bought the PRM skid.

Wow, I pay about $120 for the year and I can smack it into a tree and get it fixed

Ive never heard of the streamline, so i wouldnt be able to really give a opinion. I have a GPR on my banshee and a precision on my LTR. I heard the PEP and Denton are good for the price.

lol dont hit trees j/k my wrist still hurts so i wear a brace now, a steering stabilizer really only helps keep the bars straight or from jerking. I would recommend just getting a PEP or Denton stabilizer because they arent as expensive as the GPR, Elka, or Precision.

Yeah it hurt so bad, i thought i just sprained it so thats why I did it. I would hit the rock sections and I couldnt hold onto the handlebars. but it is better now. when my wrist would get jarred it would just send sharp pain through my entire arm. I broke something I cant remember what the doc said.

I have a set of Tag T2s on my banshee and are nice but remember that if you buy 1 1/8" bars that you may run out of room to mount all of your controls. I have Flexx bars on my LTR and love them, you can change the spaces to stiffen and soften the give in the handlebars. Are worth the money if you race, but would not recommend for novice riders simply because you wont use the potential of the bars. For just regular riding the Flexx bars would be just like having a regular set of bars. You really need to ride hard to use their full potential. If you back hurts, chances are its not your handlebars itself but the height of your bars. I would recommend handlebar risers.

Yeah it was but really should not have raced due to a wrist injury. After hurting for months i discovered that i fractured my wrist. It hurt like hell all race, but pull a 7th place.

I tried geeting insurance through geico because they are a sponsor of the gncc circuit but wouldnt insure me because i raced.....they said they sponsoring was just for advertisment. So they lost the insurance on my truck, quads, snowmobiles, and toy hauler.

No i run 22s in the front and 20s in the rear. The MX tires do not provide enough clearance. I tore off swingarm skids even with the 20s on.

It was florence, on the backside near the hills where you have to go down into the trees and preety much hammer it from a dead stop.

Hey all i was on atvriders and was a link to race pics and came across this picture of me racing Rausch creek, this picture was taken after i hot the tree because i can see my front bumper alittle crooked. lol

Since I am military, i have mine insured through USAA. They cover collision damages, theft, storage damage, transportation damage, a bodily injury for anyone riding my quad. My buddy has it also and they covered his repairs on his brut force 750.

MWKE that is awesome, i remember my days in the dunes. I actually recognized that camp ground. Here are a couple pics from 2004 when i rode the dunes. Me crashing trying to jump off the top of a dune A successful jump off a smaller dunes

Thank You MWKE, I have severe withdrawels and doesnt look like i will be riding much next year either, it looks like i will have just enough time to bring all my crap hto my parents in MN and leave it there until at least fall. I bought a new 2008 toyhauler in June and have never used it yet. I towed it home and thats all the time i have had lol. I guess you need to work to buy the stuff, my neighbors and good friend in PA are "taking" care of my quads for me. Sorry just venting lol.

I just brought up the topic because with the current rules as they stand I could go to some pro-national event and take some photos and submit them.

Yeah theres a myth out there where you need to buy a-arms, tie rods, and axle to narrow a LTR for GNCC racing. most tracks are usually no narrower than 50" at its narrowest locations. With swapping my LTR hubs for z-400 hubs, I was able to narrow the rear width by 1.5" and when ording my Hipers I bought a 4-1 offset for the front and a 4-5 offset in the rear. As a result, my LTR is 47.5" in the front and 47" in the rear. Most gncc racers like there quads between 45-46" I like mine at 47" because it still corners like its stock width at 49"

The best and cost effective way would be to change the gearing. Its recommended to change the rear sprocket before the front. For every 3 teeth in the rear that is about the equivalance on one tooth in the front. to tame the low end you would use a smaller sprocket on the rear sprocket or larger in the front. If you want to significantly tame it down, go up one in the front and if not go more. Front sprockets only cost approx 30-50 bucks depending on the brand. But remember by doing this you are increasing the top end speed. On my banshee there is also a throttle limiter screw on the stock throttle housing when i had it on that you can turn in that restricts the allowable throttle, acts as a throttle block. I am not sure if the raptors have this.

Here is my submission