Mech
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Everything posted by Mech
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Tao Tao 110cc, starts the stalls when trying to accelerate
Mech replied to Fiend_138's topic in Kids ATVs and Youth Off-Road
Ok.. that's useful knowing they don't run off the battery.. assuming they are the same.. Cheers. -
Haven't you got someone you could go and visit or something Randy, a lawn to cut or a hedge to trim.. I'm here to try and help find the answer to people's problems Randy, not entertain you.
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I'm sure you will know the best way already Randy.. You should be telling us. Do a write up and admin might make it a sticky..
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Oh dear...
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I think that all of our track records speak for themselves.. It's easy to see who knows what they are talking about, and who does the cut-n-pastes. And who the armchair expert is, and who has the experience.
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Haha.. No Randy.. we haven't had those problems.. Tell me Randy, have you ever done up a car or truck head ? Did you lap the valves ? Or just replace the guides, seats and valves... all proffesional like ? And how long did that job last ? Have you done many head jobs on vehicles ? How long have they lasted ? More than a year ?
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And quite a few of those valves, as far as I can see, look fine.. The seats might have been crook, or Randy's one thou valve clearance might have been a problem, but the valves look good.. I'd use some of them again, and they would I'm sure be fine(as far as I can see in that picture).. They would go for years and years.. My customers would be happy. My customers are always happy.
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Haha.. And just look at the angles Dave.. But it was lapping that was the problem.. That center valve, and the one above it are real doozies... I can't begin to imagine how they would get like that..
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Oh ok.. like I say, I'm not familiar at all with those bikes.. I'm in New Zealand and polaris is fairly new here and not very common. I'd look up the original part number,(and price) and then go looking online for an aftermarket one that's sold as a replacement for that part number. Sometimes the original part is cheaper than the replacement.. especially if they are claiming the replacement is some sort of "performance" part.. or some such bullshit.
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Yeah that's fine Randy. I'll keep lapping my valves in.. I'm responsible for ensuring things are right.. I have to know they are right when I put them together, the one and only time. Your record of failures does nothing to assure me at all..
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Ok.. good stuff. I wouldn't know about an aftermarket. Is the reg on the fuel rail or injector is it ? I think I've seen aftermarket ones being discussed so I guess they are available for that particular bike. There are two common variations of reg(on vehicles in general), some have a vacuum hose and some don't.. and of course they come in different pressures, but they don't vary by much. It might just have a speck of rust under the valve though. perhaps if you put some fairly high pressure air in there it will blow it out..
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Ha.. yeah I've heard that before from people that make a lot of mistakes.. and don't learn. Some of them even reckon our mistakes are the only way, some insist we have to make mistakes to learn !! But it's not true. A fool can make endless mistakes and never learn a thing. There are a zillion wrong ways of doing things Randy, and we can waste a lifetime trying all of them out. There's generally only one or two right ways to do things, and those we can be taught and then confirm to ourselves no problem.. There are better ways to learn.
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But Randy, you've never followed my advice ever. You do things your way and have problem after problem, problems that go on for days, weeks, months,(by your own admission), with hundreds of man hours wasted on them. But still your way is best.. And yet I (and others) lap valves and have 100% success.. They last for years and years and years, decades even.. you do it and have 100% failures within a short time.. And I'll be Randy, that I've done a hell of a lot more valve grinds than you have, on all sorts of machinery from the very small to the very big, and the very old, to the very modern. But you know best don't you Randy.. everyone else are the fools.. And that you know.. you can probably guarantee that too.. 100% And if I was silly enough to try to walk you through a valve grinding job, you'd argue the whole way, skip bits, not take care with the important bits that matter, and then try and blame me for your failure. It's always someone else's way that's the fault isn't it Randy, not your incompetence and refusal to learn.
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Looking at the diagram in a 2014 book it shows the hub being controlled by the computer.. The switch signals the computer, the computer turns the hub on or off. I don't know Polaris at all though so it may not be the same.. It wasn't your exact model..
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Perhaps the power goes to the hubs and then gets earthed by the switch ? The wiring diagram should show it.
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Yeah it's funny how you have so much problems with things Randy, doing them your original self taught way.. Valves I lap last for years and years and thousands upon thousands of miles.. Carbs I work on come right and stay good for years. The repairs I do are economical because I do and replace everything needed, and nothing that isn't.. But then... I'm trained and know what I'm doing..
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Good stuff.. So a double win.. the bike and now you get to spend time riding with your love..
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Well done. Another one saved.. Another bike out there being ridden. What they're made for..
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Huck.. You should listen to Gw and myself... We are the guys who do fix things... properly.. not just try to fix things.. unsuccessful... Take Randy's advice at your own risk.
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You should take Gw's advice and lap the new valves in. You should fit new valve seals too. I'd have tried lapping the old valves in if it was me. They clean up mostly if it's only a bit of rust on there. If a motor's burnt a valve or distorted one then they might need cutting, but mostly we can get even those valves to lap in. Valves these days are tough ! And some valves cost a lot more than a seat and/or valve cut. If the seats won't lap to a nice even line, that's not too thin, without rust marks across them, then the seats will need cutting. And after cutting.. you lap them in.. always.
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I'm pretty sure the pressure should be more like fifty pounds.. I'd let it run pumping fuel.. I've looked in the books before trying to figure how the ecu knows to switch the pump off and there doesn't seem to be any pressure sensor. So.. either the pump runs full time, (and it is possible the ecu would slow it at low fuel requirement times), or, it detects the load on the motor when the pressure gets high and switches off. If the new motor was a bit tight or drawing too much power it might be tricking the ecu.. A few minutes run might get it drawing less amps.
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Yup, if it's just saving legwork then a quad is cheaper and simpler to maintain. They aren't really safe though on hills towing a trailer. Having the load on the back if you are carting something on hilly land, is better than towing a trailer... Better traction, safer. I manage to get most things I want to move on my quad somehow.. I've used wooden outriggers to lug 14 foot slabs of 3x18 inch, and have a bin front and rear that carry a lot of small stuff or loads of metal or shale.
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Have you tested the pressure right at the tank or pump, or without any regulator ? It might get better if you let it run free for a bit, pumping fuel through.. You might hear the revs increase after thirty seconds free run..
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Low voltage to the pump... Bad earth at the pump...
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Lol.. Life's good.
