Mech

If you buy a battery the same size/dimensions, and with the terminals in the same positions, it will almost certainly be right for the bike. It is possible if you have a defective battery that that is causing your problem. You should fix that first. It is most commonly just a carby problem, or a fuel tap or filter problem. If you undo the drain screw at the bottom of the carb fuel should run out steadily. If it does, then the next thing is probably to clean the carby jets. You could try a new plug first, which is easier, but probably not under the circumstances the problem.. If it has an auto clutching belt drive, you might find that's playing up, engaging too soon before the revs have got up enough to pull away.. It's a bit hard to tell which often though and so best to eliminate one thing first. You might be able to make an educated guess which is most likely if you have been riding it before, and notice the changed takeoff.. If you take the carb off to clean it, you need to take all the fuel jets out, including a long brass tube that goes from the main jet in the bottom, up to the slide needle.. Clean/blow them and look through them all. Check the connection to the engine is sealing. If it's rubber look for splits, if it's solid metal then it will have a gasket or O ring or both. Metal manifolds, or carbs, can warp where they bolt together, so check for that too, If you do a careful job with the carb and manifold then you can hopefully assume it's not that afterwards, but only if you have been thorough. Then you can move on to the drive system, bad spark-plug or ignition system etc.

Move the plastics ?

Did you check the four wheel's alignment with one other? Did you check the caster and camber ? Alignment would be the number one and biggest contributor. Dragging brakes are rare and people notice mostly. How bad is this.. how far along the road could you go before it had drifted off by, oh say, five feet ? That's with you just barely constraining the bars.. Are you riding on a cambered road when this happens ..?

It's a possibility another cdi unit could effect the running, but I doubt it will be by much if those models are both utility work recreational models, not race, and they all have either belt drive, or multi speed gearboxes. They have to be similar models. Also though, there are dozens of different models, partzilla only claimed a few, about six or seven models, as it being interchangable for.. I take that to mean it's not suitable for other models. I'm no polaris guy but I think that if model specs are correct, and then the pictures of the bike in that parts list show up like your bike, (and you could explore other pictures like the drive system or the bodywork if you want to confirm it's the right model), then the other year and model can be taken to be right too. I've bought lots of parts like this and it's nearly always possible to cross reference things and check every thing agrees. You could find another outfit selling parts, and run the same two part checks and see if they tell you what other parts it fits.. Both sites should we hope agree.

I'm not familiar with polaris or partzilla so check it for yourself... I"d try to find a dealer site too if it was me to make really sure.. The part is quite expensive !! And nobody does refunds on electronic parts.

Ha at the surprisingly not cheap.. Hope the second hand one comes right then..

This is a good forum. Friendly, helpful, well resourced and active. Make ten posts and you can download manuals as you need them. (You are up to three so far).

Wheel alignment or dragging brakes could cause a bike to pull to one side.

Hello Shadow. Forums are a great source of knowledge. Most problems have been struck before and if they are common to a make or model searching the forum will often point us to the problem. This site also has a lot of service manuals too.

So the start button won't crank it over, but you can start it with the pull or kick start ? Most bikes have a safety feature where they won't start in gear, and I'm thinking that green light is to show it's in neutral.. It sounds like there is a problem with the neutral lights circuit, perhaps just a broken wire. Some bikes will start in gear if you apply the brakes. You could try putting the brakes on and seeing if it starts with the start button, that would confirm it's a neutral safety feature problem. It may not have that start in gear if the brakes are on feature though so don't get too sidetracked if it doesn't start. I think you need to check the wiring to the neutral switch, and the switch's operation. You should download a service manual and have a look at the wiring diagram and figure where and which wires are the neutral circuit and then inspect them real carefully. You could leave it idling and try wiggling the wires for the neutral circuit at their ends to see if you can get the light to come on steady. Mostly wires break at their ends where they connect to the metal terminal in the plug. The other fairly common thing is that the wires chafe through, you could inspect it all for wear, especially up near the steering head where the wires move with the steering. You could confirm the green light is to show it's in neutral by starting it then putting it into gear.. If the light goes out then it is a neutral light.

The regulators don't have any current regulation Randy, they just regulate on voltage alone. The original ones are fine till they get old, or, the wiring or battery deteriorates. You should check your charging system Buddy as the book suggests you do. Check the wiring for breaks or bad connections, on both the live wires and the earths. Check your battery has acid to the right level too if it's a servicable one. The regulator might be fine still. And if the choice is between a years old manifold and a new one I think I'd take the new aftermarket one. They normally only get damaged when people are taking the carb in and out. The damage happens because the old rubber has gone still and inflexible.

I'd better put a little disclaimer in here.. haha.. Check it's your model bike, and, I have no idea whether Partzilla is a reliable source of information or whether they know what they are talking about. I'd have preferred to find a genuine polaris dealer but I found partzilla and figured they should know. If you don't trust partzilla, try to find a dealer that supplies the cross reference feature. If the two different years and model parts can also fit some other model in common, they the parts are interchangeable.

Ok. Well the part numbers aren't the absolute full story. Depending on the make the part numbers can be different for different years or models but the parts still fit. That is real common. Looking online I see.. https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/3089613?ref=4f8a0516c6c0d49b80290ca402ca261857d174b7 and... https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/4011668?ref=24ab7c1ce421cbc1350a2766583a74ecc6c8e53e And both show other models the parts fit, and, they both fit a 2007 outlaw 525, which means the parts are the same even though they have different part numbers.

The cables don't stretch, but the outer cover does get compressed and shortened, (which gives much the same effect as a stretched cable). so there's normally an adjustment for that. What breaks them though, the cables, is if the end doesn't line up with the lever it's going onto nicely, and, line up nicely with no strain or bends right close by in the actual length of cable between mounts... then they break early. Every cable I've seen has been made to push and pull, but not bend or get flexed much at all. If the engine or gearbox mounts were worn and allowed the unit to move it could shorten the life of the cable dramatically. Or for that matter, if the cab was loose on it's mounts.. I'm pretty sure that six years will be a short life for that cable. I'd check the cable looked like it lay comfortably, I'd grab it mid length and move it and see it had a bit of movement in every direction, and I'd check the cab and engine/gearbox mounts. Then.. I don't live in the snow !! Perhaps cold really does make metal brittle. If I did live in the snow.. I'd want my machines reliable .. I don't like cold.

I don't know those vehicles at all but every shift cable I've ever seen has been a real tough thing that should last twenty years. You couldn't break one with muscles alone. I'd be looking for a problem somewhere before the new one broke.. Perhaps the cable's routed wrong so it has a sharp bend, or perhaps the engine mounts are loose or worn allowing the cable to be flexed constantly. Is it the cable that breaks, or the metal fitting on the end of the flexible cable. The shifting problem might be caused by one of those problems I mentioned, or it might be because the engine's idling too fast, or because the belt drive system needs a bit of work/setting up. The fast idling or badly adjusted belt drive though will not break the cable, they'll just make it hard to get into or out of gear. The breaking cables problem needs fixing first probably and then see if the shifting gets better. When it goes into gear, does the vehicle lurch forwards or graunch he gears ? Either of those are a sign the revs are too high or the belt's playing up. If neither of those things happen, then perhaps the hard shift is because the cable's misaligned.

This might be similar and cover most things.. https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/128-1983-1986-yamaha-yfm200-moto-4-200-service-manual/ And there's another manual in there for a trike with a 225 engine that might be the same engine.. Have a look and compare things with your bike. Mostly the service work is similar. If there are specific details that don't seem right someone in here might know why or what the differences are.. What year is your bike ?

Have you tried looking the part up online yet, and comparing part numbers, or, some sites will tell you what else any part number you look up also fits, what other models it does.. I'd try that first. You might need to try a few parts places and browse around clicking on things in their parts diagrams and price lists to find a site that does give that advice about options. Quite a few of them do it though.

Well g'day Kdog. I'm a now retired rural mech and I've worked on about everything too.. Not jetskis though.. not yet. One son bought a broken one a few weeks ago though so there's still time.

There's a 1986-1988 trx200 manual in the manuals section, that will be the one for you. There might be some small differences such as wire colours, and the engine bore, but everything else should be the same. Oh, and the carby jets might be different sizes..

The one for your year.. haha. They come in ranges of years, about four years is common, so if the manual you look at isn't the right one, try another a few years older or earlier.

The load backfire makes me thing the timing is out, which could be caused by dirt or water in a plug down near the engine where the stator wires come out. Is the backfire out of the exhaust or the inlet ? If it's the inlet then it suggests a weak mixture. Exhaust it could be an intermittent spark or a mistimed spark.. I'd have a good look at the plug where the stator wires come out for intermittent connections down there(just because it's likely near where you were working). It must presumably be getting fuel for the exhaust to smell of it. Did you work on anything else while diagnosing the starter ? Efi systems depend on the crank and air flow sensors, and those sensors don't read very accurately at cranking speeds or voltages, so they generally feed a signal into the control unit telling it that it's being cranked. That signal is meant to fix the mixture and timing at figures that will make it start. If the efi isn't getting the start signal the timing and mixture could be all over the place. It would be a good idea to get a manual and check the start signal is getting into the efi control unit. The efi also will have several power in wires, and several earths, you should check all the earths on the bike and the several power in wires to the efi are all good.

I'd try a new spark plug first, and then completely strip and clean the original carby, check for air leaks at the manifold, or any small vacuum hoses, and for blockages in breather pipes. If the original carb used to go ok, then that's the one I'd use. The other one might have a fault or not be setup for that bike. You are introducing uncertainty by fitting another carb.. Strip and clean the original really thoroughly. The symptom you have sounds like the slide needle needs moving up, but I would check everything else before I did that because they don't usually adjust themselves.. It's more likely you have a low float level, a blocked jet, or the emulsion tube is blocked. The emulsion tube is the brass tube that goes up from the main jet to the slide needle. You need to take that out and clean the small holes in the side of it, and clean the drilling it fits into. Blow out the air jet near the aircleaner end that feeds air to that emulsion tube. Check the diaphragm on the slide for small splits too, they might only show up when the diaphragm is stretched. Check plenty of fuel is getting into the carb by undoing the drain screw and watching the fuel flows readily.

So was it going ok before the new starter was fitted ? Do you have any ideas about how the magnets broke ? How long has it been siting since the last run ? Have you looked around near where you were working on the starter looking for disturbed wires/plugs or knocked off vacuum hoses ? Are you sure the fuel is fresh ? Do you have a timing light to check the ignition timing ?

I don't know those things but if it's a two stroke I'd pull the exhaust off and have a look in through the exhaust port at the piston.. looking for scoring or signs of overheating seizing. That might be the cause of your noise. I'd also undo the drain screw on the bottom of the carby and check the fuel flow is adequate. If there is plenty of fuel getting through and the piston looks ok, then I'd take the carb off again and strip it entirely and clean all it's jets and drillings, and check the manifold for splits if it's a rubber one, or missing gaskets or O rings if it's a metal manifold.

It's late afternoon in New Zealand and a merry christmas to you all. We don't do the present thing here, but I just got back from a very pleasant afternoon of three generations and many branched family get-together. they were just lighting the barbecue as I left, I know it's winter over there but may your gatherings be as warm as the one I had. And I got there and back on a quad.. haha. if that makes it better(and it does)..