Mech

The trigger windings might need swapping around the other polarity to correct the ignition timing. The cdi fires when it gets a signal from the trigger coil, and on older bikes(like this) it's common for the firing to be triggered by the AC voltage coming from the trigger coil rising to a certain point, then, as the revs and speed of the flywheel magnets get faster, that critical voltage needed to fire the cdi occurs earlier in the rotation, while the magnet is further from the trigger than it had fired at low revs. If the firing was too early, you might need to move the pickup coil further away from the flywheel, and/or, reverse the wires. It might be that the trigger coil is wound such that it sends the wire into a negative voltage leading up to the magnet, then a rising(positive) output after the magnet has been passed. Then you will get ignition timing that is retarded, and that gets more retarded as the revs rise. Swap the trigger windings first, then if that doesn't get it firing at the right time, swap the capacitor charge wires about. Inside modern cdi there are integrated circuits that count the pulses of AC coming from the stator, and only fire after a certain number of AC waves and then a trigger signal. To be sure whether the cdi is going to run the bike(and it probably will), then you need to try the wires in all four possible combinations of connection polarity.

The green and yellow are for the trigger coil, and the black/red is for charging the capacitor in the cdi. If you are lucky the charge wire B/r, will go to what they call "magneto coil" and the two trigger wires ca go on "ignitor" pins. If not, you will have to provide some earths to pins and to one trigger wire. You may have to swap the polarity in either or both those two sets of wires to get it to go right.

Seems so.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/atv/1997/bayou-400-4x4-canada-only-klf400-b5/camshaft-s-tensioner

Your idea of a flat spot is more likely than my bulge.. haha. I've been caught out by the "surge", both as a customer description, and my own test driving, and thinking it was an engine problem, only to eventually realise it was a tyre. That was a bulge though and the surge was very slight and only at light throttle. This scuffing up of the road is a lot more severe I suspect. A bad flat spot, or a bad cv joint or possibly a really bad wheel bearing.

That scuffing is fifty percent of every wheel rotation. It looks too much to be a small bulge or a flat spot really. I'd check the axles and wheel bearings unless there is an obvious bulge or as Gw suggests, a flat spot. The tyres are only meant to be about four to six pounds pressure, so eight pounds should be plenty to minimise a flat, or show up a bulge really well.

View File TGB Blade-Est 1000 Service manual TGB Blade-Est 1000 Service manual Submitter Mech Submitted 09/10/2024 Category Other ATV  

View File TGB Blade 500-600 Service manual TGB Blade 500-600 Service manual. Submitter Mech Submitted 09/10/2024 Category Other ATV  

Jack it up and put a block of wood near the tyre so there is a small gap, then rotate the wheel looking for a bulge in the tyre, or a buckle in the rim. Use the block under and to the side of the wheel looking for either of the faults. Then rotate the wheel by hand feeling for any play or roughness or grabbing.

The machines might be ok but the manuals are lacking some details.

View File TGB Blade 500-525 Service Manual TGB Blade 500-525 Service manual. Submitter Mech Submitted 09/10/2024 Category Other ATV  

View File TGB Blade 400-425 Service Manual TGB Blade 400-425 Service manual. Submitter Mech Submitted 09/10/2024 Category Other ATV  

View File TGB Blade 250-300 Service Manual TGB Blade 250-300 Service manual Submitter Mech Submitted 09/10/2024 Category Other ATV  

Oh yeah, if we are going to strip a carb we need to remove every brass piece for sure. Assume nothing !

Haha.. Glad it was simple. I'm surprised no yamaha rider suggested that. It will be in the owners manual no doubt. I had heard of a button and/or a lever, but I thought that was to get it into reverse. It quite often happens that some designed in safety feature gets taken as a fault. I guess this interlock button is intended as a safety feature. Stupid safety !

I just had a look in a manual and it has a shift rod on the left side of the engine. Perhaps disconnect that and try shifting by hand, to see if it works, and to feel for any shift happening inside there..

Not sure about the light but I'd assume that will come right when the cable/rod is adjusted or fitted correctly. I'm not familiar with that model but some of them use a shift cable. If the shift cable outer comes unattached it can pull a linkage but not perhaps push the lever. Move the hand shift lever and look underneath near the gearbox looking for a cable/rod or lever moving. Check it has full travel.

My guess would be that the shift cable or linkage is faulty or unattached.

I think you should find your frame number and confirm which it is, the model up to 2001, or the model from 2001 onwards... Then try to find the shaft you know will fit.

Right. And I wonder if the universals off other models fit the shaft's splines.

Ok, so if you look it up in partzilla, and choose the part as though you were going to buy it, and then click a tab called "product fitment", it will tell you what other years and/or models the shaft fits.. And if you take that genuine part number and put itinto google it will find you some driveshafts for sale.