russj_20

IMO the kingquad is the most underrated and most reliable wheeler out there. You shouldnt have much for issues but definitely change all the fluids and change them at the very least, once a year.

I would just rebuild the ones you have or bring them in to have rebuilt. Would be the cheapest route more than likely

That is likely the decompression ball and yes thats where it would go. If you were gaining too much compression it may have aided in destroying the cam shaft

Definitely go thru the carb after sitting even for a few months, especially with the fuel we have these days. You might have a choke thats sticking or maybe a leaking intake boot.after going thru those then move forward with adjusting the idle screw

You should first verify compression. Valve lash is common for a hard to start situation especially a tight intake valve. It also may be dropping spark? Could have an airboot leaking and leaning it out to the point that it doesnt want to run. If you can, test fuel pressure. The injector is probably the last component I would check after verifying these first. In a shop, the typical tests would go about in the order of: 1. compression/leakdown 2. spark 3. fuel pressure. One of these would usually point to the system to dig into further

Interesting... So this makes me think that your starting system is working just fine but something is grounding it out once the button is let go. This should have a tip over sensor that connects to an engine stop relay. I would start there. I don't have specs for it but there is a manual for it either on here or on quads.ddns.net for free.

Dielectric is non-conductive so it should not be used on a connection. Over a connection (after the connection is made) is fine but that can attract more dirt and grime as well. To prove this, take a multimeter and check continuity from either side of a small glob of dielectric grease. Dielectric is great for use on waterproofing seals on connectors. It also helps keep the rubber soft and aids in disconnecting the connector the next time too. I would have to look at the connector to decide how to clean it. Sometimes you can get by with just some electronic spray. Sometimes you may need to replace the terminal(s). Sometimes you can scrape of corrosion with a pick or small screwdriver.

Sounds like youre on the right track but make sure you disconnect the battery before you weld on it. Don't want to fry your ECM in the process of fixing it!

The only way it could be electrical is if it were dropping spark or the spark plug is too low of a heat range. Restricted airflow, incorrect jets, or incorrect float height are much more common problems. I've also seen people run premium gas in engine without enough compression to fully burn the fuel and will build carbon on the valves and foul spark plugs. Yours would be an example of one that shouldn't run premium. Just my thoughts

Don't worry so much about exact TDC. You can even check the exhaust valves while the intakes are open and vice versa. If you watch the intake open and then close and then watch the flywheel get to the "T" mark you are at TDC. But seriously, you can virtually be anywhere on the bottom of the cam lobe and get an accurate reading. The timing plug is on the stator cover. There will be 2 plugs. One to turn the crank and the other to inspect for timing marks. Make sure you are turning the engine in the normal operating direction (opposite the cam chain tensioner) If the tensioner is in the rear then turn the engine forward

Might have to measure or just try it if you have them both. If anything you can order some wheel spacers if needed.

Do you let it run for a while or is there a lot of short start/stop scenarios? Is the pilot jet the right setting for your location? How long is it til your plug needs to be replaced?

I would look into the clutches and centrifugal clutch. You are running about the same RPMs in H or L when the noise starts.

Or coming from the airbox and dripping down. Hard to say without seeing it. I think you have a couple issues going on, the engine seizing and the oil leak but I dont think they are necessarily connected. Might want to check and see if you have any leaking boots or seals that could have leaned out the fuel mixture and locked up your piston. Could also be filled too full of oil and oil is dripping from your airbox down on to the engine and also making its way to the intake and hydrolocking the piston

I bet your cylinder is rusted. If there was no water in the oil then you might be ok as far as the bottom end goes. you may want to pull the top end to see what you're up against. Youll also get a good view at the crank at that time

Not sure if you found an answer to this but if all the starting components are new and the battery is strong I would think there are some bad connections. Clean up the connections and don't use dielectric on the connections either.

Did you ever find an answer to this? To check a rectifier you can check the diodes with a multimeter. Should have .3-.8vdc one way and none the other way. Also, check the stator legs for continuity to eachother and no continuity to ground.

Is this a carb model or FI? Not sure what you mean by fuel prime?

There might be a drain plug on the bottom of the front of the radiator but realistically its easy enough just to pull the lower radiator hose. Don't forget to bleed the system after you refill so you don't end up with air bubbles and overheat