Quantcast
Jump to content

Gwbarm

Premium Members
  • Posts

    3,131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    176

Everything posted by Gwbarm

  1. Im kind of in the same boat, pay more for CDI than I paid for the whole bike when I don't know how good the engine is, but, im certainly not going to pay 300 used taking someones words that it is good, there's not even a test for that, how does he know its good, and even if it is good , for how long. I have been dragging my feet on this one, but I think im going to have to buy a new one for 400. If you come up with another option, please let me know.
  2. The sad part , you could have replaced them very easily when you had the head off.
  3. Not sure exactly on yours, the manual will be helpful, but on all the kickstarters I have worked on the pinion gear fits onto the crank generally the first 2 teeth go into that gear with the kicker all the way up, there is usually a half moon set of teeth on the pinion, it goes on the first couple of teeth and as you kick down you get to the end of the half moon and the kicker comes back up from the spring, i think that's what you are talking about. I may not have done a very good job of explaining it but you will see when you get the manual.
  4. Thats exactly what it is, oil is leaking down into the combustion chamber from bad seal, doesn't really cause any problems, I just don't like seeing the smoke. I have a John Deere that does that, it started doing it after the second year of service, and it doesn't have many Hrs on it it bugs me but I try to ignore it.
  5. I thought the GY6 was 4 stroke, but the larger engine, wasn't sure about the 50cc, i have a GY6 style engine on a Chinese scooter that's 50cc and its 2 stroke. Good thing I think parts are fairly cheap for those. I think Mech is right just plain metal fatigue I have had it happen on other parts but not a crank. Sorry for your loss, but got to keep the daughter happy, I know I have 3.
  6. You have been busy, Wow it snapped right off, what a clean break, I would think something else must have happened to cause that, is the bearing seized, 2 stroke or 4 stroke.
  7. There is also a linkage adjustment by gearshift you might check for the right amount play, not too much, and not little, the manual tells the correct specs.
  8. It Does sound like broken crank, can you rotate rotor freely by hand
  9. Sounds like I might be looking at yamaha, good machines.
  10. It may have been changed regularly, but just for piece of mind I would change it.
  11. It should fit fine and they also sell a special mounting plate for ATVs with all the holes in the right places for the winch.
  12. Thats interesting, I mean bad, are the valves working properly, does it have compression.
  13. I have used several aftermarket switches and only had a problem with one, I had to switch 2 wires that did not correspond to the original harness. You will probably be fine but check to make sure everything is working with the new switch and no smoke.
  14. Since you don't know what fuel was being used, and if it sat for very long with ethanol fuel in it, I would pull the bowl and make sure the gas hasn't turned to jelly and rusted in the carb, I had a lot of trouble with that before I switched to non-ethanol fuel.
  15. I haven't had these small batteries last more than a few years, I would try charging it with an external battery charger and make sure its holding a good charge.
  16. Great site, a lot of good information, welcome!
  17. The Polaris trail boss was a 250cc two stroke that was Polaris's break into the ATV market from snowmobiles in the 80s, the 250 is a 2 stroke and there was a 325 four stroke, you should have an oil tank that is filled with 2 stroke oil that goes into a small pump then to the carb, then your gas line to the carb, the oil line is usually smaller, they do not really have valves. I f you are unsure if your oil pump works use premix.
  18. I like Wix very well made filter
  19. I think that's the way a lot of them work, mine are older , that's the way they work , they are accurate when they point to E but not so much anywhere in between. Since yours is so new I thought the electronic ones may be more accurate.
  20. There is shift linkage on the gear change side, you might check that to make sure its not loose and adjust that according to the manual.
  21. I meant not let the mud stay on there very long, vinyl protectant, I spray it let it alone for about an hr and wipe the excess off, it really just replaces the moisture lost by sun exposure and age, the metal I just keep it polished and smooth, wiring harness I don't worry about that too much, but I don't do a lot of heavy mud riding, where you need a snorkel to keep the engine running, I do have a snorkel but I try to be semi respectful of the machine.
  22. Those old Hondas are excellent bikes, definitely worth the effort getting it back on the road again. Glad you got it going.
  23. I use ArmorAll or similar vinyl preservative on the plastics, and keep the engine polished with Colonial Brassy or Wizards metal polish, I haven't had any problems. Just don't let it stay on there very long some mud can be very acidic.
  24. Good procedure Mech, I will have to try that, I usually eye ball it or go by the specs in the manual, but eyes aren't what they used to be.
  25. Sounds like it might be electrical, not old enough to be badly gummed up gauge float.
×
×
  • Create New...