Gwbarm

The biggest problems I know of are wiring and electronics, the engines and transmissions are very reliable.

Thank you so much Mech, you have spent a lot of time and brain power typing all that . What I have checked so far I have power to the CDI , I have ground to the CDI , I have correct resistance on the pulse coil, correct resistance to the anti kickback coil, I have continuity on the orange wire to the coil, forgot to checked that for power, the start stop switch is working. Both starter cutout relay and reverse relay have been replaced. What I haven't checked is actual voltage output of the pulse coil or anti kickback coil , haven't really checked the stator, just figured it was for charging, not concerned with that right now. Got another new coil it has correct resistance now. Im sure I might have missed something, that's why I asked for your help, you are much better with wiring than I am .

This might be helpful: Not a grizzly but a good diagnostic video

I will buy the OEM one, I just want to check all the electronics over again to make sure I didn't miss anything in the ignition circuit, may need your help with that. Thanks!

Very good site with a lot of information available, but ill have to admit I know very little about your ride.

Thank you for the info. So what did you do

Surpisingly they got back with me quickly: Now I am convinced they do not make an aftermarket unit for the 2000 big bear 400. Hello dear customer. We have received your email that this product you asked for, B07L834QQC, is not suitable for your model. We have contacted our technical staff to try to find other suitable products for you, I am sorry, we did not find a suitable product, if you have other needs, you are welcome to contact us at any time. Wish you a happy life!

I have contacted the company to see if it will work, waiting on them to get back to me.

This one appears to have the right plugs, but it still doesn't stay it is for the big bear https://www.amazon.com/California-1998-2001-Hampshire-1997-2001-Road-Passion/dp/B07L834QQC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=spubS&content-id=amzn1.sym.bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_p=bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_r=PTFKMQA8ZM93RR6EQEDK&pd_rd_wg=i1Cfc&pd_rd_r=5748daee-d2fb-47f8-ade1-22fe834b53a3&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m

Thanks! The blue thing is actually the starter cutout relay, I have replaced it and the new one is black, and the blue one is just laying there.

4x4 and you are exactly right 6 pins and 8 pins I just checked mine

On mine the connector on the right is larger, than the amazon one, but is it the correct photo, or a generic one. A true gamble, based on one review.

Sound should get louder as the speed increases , like going down a hill in low gear, kind of like a loud whine, but not sure why your sound has changed since you replaced the u joints. Did the job go pretty easily, or did you have to do a lot of hammering to get the old ones off.

I haven't checked my connectors yet, doing that now, but im sure mine is the same as yours, and I did see that post it was for a 350, this is the post I saw, like I said probably wishful thinking

Looks like good grease.

I think for the 3 you listed, OEM would be best, if its an OEM carb, if its aftermarket you could probably buy a new aftermarket carb as cheap as an OEM kit, but if its OEM carb, I would stick with OEM kit. The clutch I have heard the aftermarket clutch kits don't work very well, maybe Ebay, I don't deal with eBay much except for umobtanium parts, transmission parts can get expensive OEM, you might find a good used one at Ebay, I have done that, don't know what all you need. I Use Motorsport.com, and rockymountainatvmc.com for OEM parts. I actually have an aftermarket carb on my suzuki only because it had already been replaced with aftermarket and the OEM one was 450.00. Which brings me to my next point, as Jim said, if you are on a tight budget aftermarket parts will probably be fine, but look at them closely and read everything to make sure they fit your machine, I have done that and still some don't fit and some don't work.

I just found this, it claims it is for a bear tracker, but one of the rating said it worked perfectly for his 2000 big bear, I don't have much faith, but I think im going to try it. Its cheap enough. Plus its amazon prime I can send it back if it doesn't work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L82JT1K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1GSUR6QOCZ9BO&psc=1 If the link doesn't work let me know and I will type in my search criteria

I use dielectric grease, I have also used vasoline it seems to work OK, I just use the grease because that's what its made for. I use it on electrical connectors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets and spark plug boots.

Don’t feel like I’ve been much help, keep us informed as to how the repair goes

Intersted to see what you find out, iv been trying to find out myself, there are generic ones for the 2000 Kodiak but not the big bear and there are generic ones for the 95-99 big bear and there are generic ones for the 2002- 20012 big bear, I have contacted the company and they sent me the ad telling what it fits, I have come to the conclusion I have to go OEM, 409.00 at motorsports.com cheapest iv found. I haven't bought one yet I would like to be more certain mine is bad. Plus iv read reviews that says the generic ones don't work on the bikes they are supposed to work on , and other reviews say they are great. So who knows, if they had a 30 dollar one for the big bear I would get it and try it , and like you I have almost bought the one for the Kodiak , except it looks different from mine, shaped different, so not sure, yet.

I haven't used any of them, I use my luggage rack for carrying gear, and strapping it down, but if I was going to get one I would get the one that looks like a bucket seat with storage compartments built in.

Sorry if I told you wrong, sometimes its hard to diagnose without looking at it, My thought was, if the sensor was internally grounding, which it may not be, removing it would be the same as what its problem is now, so using a jumper would complete the circuit and let the 12 volts continue its path, unless the sensor is the termination point for the circuit. Then its not necessary.

Don't know exactly what you are looking for , but there are several on Amazon that claim to fit.

I have run into this problem on several occasions, when you buy used you really don't know if the shims were lost during a previous starter install, more than likely they were, you might look at an exploded parts diagram and see if it lists them, iv run into yamaha parts diagrams before that didn't even list the shims but they were there. The other thing I have had problems with is aftermarket starters are not as exact as OEM, so you could try shimming for correct alignment, or get OEM parts.